Leaky Valve Covers
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,297
Likes: 0
From: Spokane WA
Leaky Valve Covers
my 390 has leaked from the valve covers as long as i've owned it, and it's been through 3 new sets of gaskets and now even has a new set of covers on it and it still leaks. I'm sure i'm just putting them on wrong or something, so i was wondering if anybody had any tips for me when i get another set of gaskets, so i can quit payin for the salaries at NAPA. Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Get a good deflecting beam torque wrench and torque the valve cover bolts to exactly 7 ft-lbs. No more, no less. Also, get some of that Permatex "high tack" gasket sealer. Coat both sides of the gasket before installing it. That should pretty well seal it up.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
From: Fort Rucker, AL
Valve covers and the rear main seal will plague you as long as you run your FE. I'm still battling the seal but to get my valve covers to stop leaking I put Permatex on the bottom and up the sides. I sandwiched my gasket (rubber) with Permatex. I also got some of those valve cover shims that go between the bolt and the cover. If your valve covers are old, the hole where the bolt goes is sunk in and doesn't hold the valve cover down like it used to.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Centreville USA
If you are using cork gaskets, throw them away. Get a set of FelPro rubber gaskets and use a sealant (I use this blue stuff from Permatex) to hold them in the valve covers. Also, add a dab of silicone where the head and intake manifold meet up. Torque to 7 lb-ft and you should be leak free. That's what I have done and have not had a leak in months.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
What kind of valve covers are you using? If they are the stamped steel ones, once they have been over torqued they are bent and need to have the flange made flat again so they will seal again if torqued properly. I usually use a anvil, a brass drift and light hammer to make them flat again. The cork gaskets work fine if you don't think more torque will seal them better, it never does.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
too make them fit right in the stock covers take a scissor and remove the tabls along the outer edges which are meant to be pushed into slots they don't work then seal both sides with blue rtv
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
The tabs are to align the gaskets with the valve covers so the holes will line up. The RTV is ok as long as you use it sparingly. The oil makes the RTV swell and and using a lot of it can cause as much trouble as not using any.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I've got the same situation. Only I used spray tack and now they are welded on so tight I can't get them off and they STILL leak 
. I've tried prying on them, to no avail. Guess I'll have to really get serious to get them back off to try sealing it again.
I've straightened the rail out, cleaned every surface to a perfect sheen, glued them and then they still leak a few days later. One note, make sure you use a lock tite on bolts. Seems mine like to wiggle loose and that caused them to leak on time before.
I've got 4 FE's and they all drip in some way out the valve covers. Some worse then others. They will always mark their territory!
. I've tried prying on them, to no avail. Guess I'll have to really get serious to get them back off to try sealing it again.I've straightened the rail out, cleaned every surface to a perfect sheen, glued them and then they still leak a few days later. One note, make sure you use a lock tite on bolts. Seems mine like to wiggle loose and that caused them to leak on time before.
I've got 4 FE's and they all drip in some way out the valve covers. Some worse then others. They will always mark their territory!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque
I agree with most...that the FE does leak at the valve covers. I have M/T aluminum covers and they still leak. I am going with the studs and the rubber FelPro gaskets to see if that helps.
I installed a Milodon crush proof oil pan gasket with studs over the summer and all the leaks are gone. Wish Milodon would make the valve cover gaskets too.
I know these engines were developed in '58, but the head surface to the valve cover is really a poor design. The five (5) bolt pattern does not help...
I installed a Milodon crush proof oil pan gasket with studs over the summer and all the leaks are gone. Wish Milodon would make the valve cover gaskets too.
I know these engines were developed in '58, but the head surface to the valve cover is really a poor design. The five (5) bolt pattern does not help...
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
I always found the the installation of a windage tray gave enough gasket surface to solve oil pan leak problems. The rubber gaskets are reusable, otherwise I haven't found them to be any better than cork in the leak department. A thin coat of RTV, seemed to work best, after the oil makes it swell to fill and gaps. The other thing the helps is to use the GM style of valve cover hold downs the spread the hold down force of the screws over a much larger area of the valve cover rail. You have to remember that oil wasn't near as slick in the '50's as it is now.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
My 390 leaked when I first bought it. I put new edelbrock valve covers on it with cork gaskets. I permatexed both sides of the gaskets first. I use the Tee handle valve cover tighteners and just tighten hand tight. So far no leaks in 2 months.
New User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Foley, MN
Seems dumb, but...
Next time you have your covers off, just poke around on the bottom cast rail of the head and see if there's any kinda porosity issues that might allow oil to seep *thru* the head. It might appear like the valvecovers are leaking when really it's not.
Also, run the engine with the valve covers off. Oil should come off the rockers and drain to the rear of the head. If it comes off really really fast, you might want to think about checking your rockershafts to make sure the oiling holes are down (Someone in the past may have done engine work on it, and put the shafts in upside-down), and you may want to consider restrictors in the head to limit the flow of oil to the valvetrain. Also, check the drain hole in the rear of the head - poke a welding rod down it and make sure there isn't a chunk of old valvecover gasket stuck in the hole, preventing oil from draining correctly. Oil pooling up in that location will make valvecover gaskets leak badly, because that gasket wasn't meant to hold a quart of hot oil.
Also, run the engine with the valve covers off. Oil should come off the rockers and drain to the rear of the head. If it comes off really really fast, you might want to think about checking your rockershafts to make sure the oiling holes are down (Someone in the past may have done engine work on it, and put the shafts in upside-down), and you may want to consider restrictors in the head to limit the flow of oil to the valvetrain. Also, check the drain hole in the rear of the head - poke a welding rod down it and make sure there isn't a chunk of old valvecover gasket stuck in the hole, preventing oil from draining correctly. Oil pooling up in that location will make valvecover gaskets leak badly, because that gasket wasn't meant to hold a quart of hot oil.