HPOP refill?? No start
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From: Near DC
HPOP refill?? No start
Kind'a stuck at the moment.
Did the IPR service and have put about 30 ounces back into the HPOP.
I know it takes time for the bubbles to finish, but what is the proper amount to put in the HPOP?
Also, when open, does it drain down into the pan?
I checked my dipstick and it is one quart over.
It still won't start.....
Did the IPR service and have put about 30 ounces back into the HPOP.
I know it takes time for the bubbles to finish, but what is the proper amount to put in the HPOP?
Also, when open, does it drain down into the pan?
I checked my dipstick and it is one quart over.
It still won't start.....
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From: Near DC
Cranks fine, just no catch.
I didn't want to keep filling the HPOP if it eventually ran down into the oil pan.
I have now put in almost three quarts, still bubbles down.
I mean there has GOT to be a limit, right?
I didn't want to keep filling the HPOP if it eventually ran down into the oil pan.
I have now put in almost three quarts, still bubbles down.
I mean there has GOT to be a limit, right?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
The HPOP reservoir only holds about 24 ozs. There is a stand pipe and any more then 24 ozs. just drains down the front cover and back to the pan.
If the oil in the res is about 3/4" from top it is full. If there is no leak it will stay full.
Did you get the IPR solenoid connector seated properly?
If the oil in the res is about 3/4" from top it is full. If there is no leak it will stay full.
Did you get the IPR solenoid connector seated properly?
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I took the solenoid off again, was a little damp, cleaned it up and put back.
It is up against the wall, spacer put on big side toward solenoid, tin nut replaced.
Checked the wires yet again, looks good, snapped on.
There isn't a notch for the solenoid, just put it on with wire at top.
Just tried again, all crank, no start.
Got the batt charger hooked up now giving it a refresh.
I neglected to mention in this thread, (different thread) I expect a new IPR on Monday.
The tiny needle inside the IPR lost it's tip.
Snapped during reassembly
The tip is about 1/80" long.
I was hoping that it would at least start.
It is up against the wall, spacer put on big side toward solenoid, tin nut replaced.
Checked the wires yet again, looks good, snapped on.
There isn't a notch for the solenoid, just put it on with wire at top.
Just tried again, all crank, no start.
Got the batt charger hooked up now giving it a refresh.
I neglected to mention in this thread, (different thread) I expect a new IPR on Monday.
The tiny needle inside the IPR lost it's tip.
Snapped during reassembly
The tip is about 1/80" long.
I was hoping that it would at least start.
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Posting Guru
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From: Near DC
Batts are full, got 10.7 volts while cranking, no white smoke.
Good fast crank too.
Checked all fuses.
What fuse is it that is associated with the bowl heater and the other important item it powers?
Hmmm, I'm starting to think that the snapped tip in the IPR is the culprit....
Good fast crank too.
Checked all fuses.
What fuse is it that is associated with the bowl heater and the other important item it powers?
Hmmm, I'm starting to think that the snapped tip in the IPR is the culprit....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Batts are full, got 10.7 volts while cranking, no white smoke.
Good fast crank too.
Checked all fuses.
What fuse is it that is associated with the bowl heater and the other important item it powers?
Hmmm, I'm starting to think that the snapped tip in the IPR is the culprit....
Good fast crank too.
Checked all fuses.
What fuse is it that is associated with the bowl heater and the other important item it powers?
Hmmm, I'm starting to think that the snapped tip in the IPR is the culprit....
If the WTS lamp comes on then he PCM has power. If not check fuel bowl heater fuse #30 - 30A under dash (1999-2001). It also powers the PCM.
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