I had the motor resealed which included new front cover, etc.. and I now have the motor back in. I am priming the HPOP and have put 2 quarts in already. Shouldn't it fill up at some point since the anti-drain back valve should keep it from going back to the pan? The HPOP was holding its prime before. I am worried that something is wrong somewhere.

Different question.....
So the oil is at the top of the HPOP. I assume that any extra oil is going back to the pan. Why doesn't the oil eventually overflow as I prime the HPOP??

Please explain how it works. Incoming through the drain back check valve and outgoing goes back to the pan how?

 

Filling the HPOP res helps, but the reality is, cranking gets it started.

10-15 second bursts with letting it set 20 seconds or so between cranks.

That way you dont burn out your starter.

Oil has to pressurize into the rails to fire the injectors.

Shouldn't drain back unless you got the wrong front cover for your hpop.

 

I am trying to start it now but nothing so far after 4 tries. The front cover is the right part number for the 96. I will go back over my notes to see if I missed something.

 

It does seem like a lot unless its also filling the heads up with oil. Pull one of the plugs along the oil rails in the head and see if any oil comes out.

 

I had to crank my 15-20 times when i changed my Hpop.

*shrugs*

 

Ouch. 15-20 times. OK. I may continue to try it. The HPOP worked before the front cover change and the oil is at the top. Fuel pressure OK and it ran before I pulled the motor out. Thank you for that information.

 

Yeah, you gotta build pressure past the air

once you get it started, let it run at least 20 minutes
shut it off for a bit
then it will hard start again cause there will be air still. It takes a bit to get the air out.

Front cover is a pretty drastic thing.

Just to double check though.
You have the IPR pluged in?

And did you disassemble the IPR or leave it alone?

 

The FPR was not messed with as far as I know but I had a shop do the work. I have tried to start it with and without the IPR plugged in. I followed the No Start flow chart and I am at the "check injector oil pressure" part. Unless they did not tighten the HPOP gear bolt, I think it should start.

But let me ask this. I have been trying to start and then leave it alone for hours as I work on other projects. Do I need to just keep after it continuously in short bursts or will it clear the air and build pressure doing it every now and then?

sigh

 

Every now and again is fine. Unplugging the ICP is a good test but unplugging the IPR it will not start.

 

How many times have you tried to start it now?
Is the oil level in the HPOP res. going down during cranking or in between cranking?

 

IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!! It took a lot of cranking. More than I expected. Throttle response sucks but I guess I need to drive it to get the air out.

 

Great! I couldn't believe it either how long I had to crank it. I then hit the road and drove 160 miles to pick up a trailer and the next morning it still took longer then normal to start. Its amazing!

 

Oldbird, Let me ask you this. Right now, I doubt it could pull itself up the driveway but I have not driven it. Was the power and throttle response back quickly or did that take time? You pulled a trailer after you drove 160 miles. Was it OK on the way up?

 

It should be pulling stronger then that. Maybe a miss or two but still running somewhat strong. I drove four miles to the freeway, 80 miles down the freeway, bought a trailer without shutting it off and drove 80 miles back home.

 

they say start and let it run for a while.

shut it off, let it sit
start again later and let run for a while.

Some people drive them.

its started now, so if there are any other issues, you can work on them now that it starts.

and yes, the truck will never start with the IPR unplugged.

The HPOP bolt is designed to tighten itself.

Easiest way to do it is tighten till it starts to turn the motor over
It will tighten itself the rest of the way. hehe.