Harmonic Balancer replacement
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
Harmonic Balancer replacement
Hey Everybody i have a few questions about the removal and istalation of a harmonic balancer.
I have a bolt type puller that is made for removing it but was wandering it there
was any way i could make a instalation tool for it since i don't have one.
Also are there any little hints,tips,tricks,ect That i should know before going about removing and installing a new one.
Thanks,
Jonathan
I have a bolt type puller that is made for removing it but was wandering it there
was any way i could make a instalation tool for it since i don't have one.
Also are there any little hints,tips,tricks,ect That i should know before going about removing and installing a new one.
Thanks,
Jonathan
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
When you re install it just put it in place and start the bolt that holds it in. Take a rubber mallet and bump it all the around so it is going on straight . Then tighten the bolt as you go. Once you get it most of the way on it should pull and seat itself with the crank bolt.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 509
Likes: 4
From: Casper, Wyoming
It's pretty easy. Remove the radiator, then the 15/16" bolt from the crankshaft, and find a thick washer that will fit in the hole in the middle of the balancer, and put it in the hole; this keeps the puller from damaging the crank snout threads. Next, buy or borrow a steering wheel/ harmonic balancer puller (got mine at sears), bolt it up, and the balancer will come right off. Once it's off, push GENTLY on the seal to see if it's pliable. if it isn't, you'll want to pull the timing cover to replace the seal as well, or it will drool oil everywhere.
Check the balancer to ensure that the seal surface is smooth; if it isn't, you'll need a speedy sleeve to repair it (if the rubber is coming out of the balancer, don't bother with that; it needs to be replaced).
Reinstall opposite of removal. You'll need LITERALLY a drop of silicone sealant between the crank key and balancer to keep the oil from dribbling out; don't use very much.
The balancer will install by turning the bolt into the crank.
Have a cold beverage, you've earned it.
Check the balancer to ensure that the seal surface is smooth; if it isn't, you'll need a speedy sleeve to repair it (if the rubber is coming out of the balancer, don't bother with that; it needs to be replaced).
Reinstall opposite of removal. You'll need LITERALLY a drop of silicone sealant between the crank key and balancer to keep the oil from dribbling out; don't use very much.
The balancer will install by turning the bolt into the crank.
Have a cold beverage, you've earned it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
I don't recommend the above procedures for installing a harmonic balancer, regardless of how well it might've worked or how many times someone may have done it.
Get a puller, and get a harmonic balancer installer tool and save yourself a headache.
This way you'll know it came off and went on right, nothing was damaged, and you can rent the tools then return them and get your money back, that way your out 0$.
Best of all, it's easier to do it this way than risk stripping out threads or beating the crank with a hammer or mallet.
Harmonic Balancer Installer Tool Instructions - How to ToolCast from BoxWrench - YouTube
Get a puller, and get a harmonic balancer installer tool and save yourself a headache.
This way you'll know it came off and went on right, nothing was damaged, and you can rent the tools then return them and get your money back, that way your out 0$.
Best of all, it's easier to do it this way than risk stripping out threads or beating the crank with a hammer or mallet.
Harmonic Balancer Installer Tool Instructions - How to ToolCast from BoxWrench - YouTube
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
You did.
And, as it says in the video. It takes a LOT of force to hammer a harmonic balancer on the crankshaft. Rubber mallet or not, it's better to have the insurance that you didn't harm the motor. Even "bumping" it puts stress on the crank.
No offense meant, but if theres a tool meant for the job, theres a reason.
When you re install it just put it in place and start the bolt that holds it in. Take a rubber mallet and bump it all the around so it is going on straight . Then tighten the bolt as you go. Once you get it most of the way on it should pull and seat itself with the crank bolt.
No offense meant, but if theres a tool meant for the job, theres a reason.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
No , I was intending on hitting the outside of the balancer itself, not directly on the crankshaft. Besides that I dont see a lot of difference between the installer tool you have in your post and the bolt and washer used to retain it. Unless you count the cost of purchasing it as a difference.
Mine went on 75% of the way w/o much force. I used a touch of silicone spray with the installation. So there wasnt any beating the crank as you say.
Mine went on 75% of the way w/o much force. I used a touch of silicone spray with the installation. So there wasnt any beating the crank as you say.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
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From: Rock Valley, IA
I don't know what kind of balancer they were using but mine went on with no problems at all. I did use a puller to get it off but reinstallation with a new balancer was easy as pie. I didn't use a mallet. Just used a washer like bruno said. I would say, bagby, if it doesn't go on easy go to AZ to get a loan-a-tool, otherwise avoid the headache and just put it on with some lubricant (silicone spray or a very small amount of assembly lube works well).
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 509
Likes: 4
From: Casper, Wyoming
That's a great tool, but unnecessary if you use the snout bolt right. Naturally, you'll want to make sure the bolt is threaded into the crankshaft several threads, but using a crank bolt won't hurt the threads unless there's already something wrong with them.
Besides, that's how they install the balancer at the factory.
If you want to have a new tool though (and coming from a tool *****, I know I like more tools), just stroll down to the local fastener store and buy a length of B7 threaded rod and nut the right size, then to the bearing store for a thrust bearing the right size, and presto- you save lotsa bux. No need to spend too much of your hard earned for a tool you'll use once, and didn't actually need.
At least, I don't need one, and I've done this job dozens of times.
Besides, that's how they install the balancer at the factory.
If you want to have a new tool though (and coming from a tool *****, I know I like more tools), just stroll down to the local fastener store and buy a length of B7 threaded rod and nut the right size, then to the bearing store for a thrust bearing the right size, and presto- you save lotsa bux. No need to spend too much of your hard earned for a tool you'll use once, and didn't actually need.
At least, I don't need one, and I've done this job dozens of times.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
That's a great tool, but unnecessary if you use the snout bolt right. Naturally, you'll want to make sure the bolt is threaded into the crankshaft several threads, but using a crank bolt won't hurt the threads unless there's already something wrong with them.
Besides, that's how they install the balancer at the factory.
If you want to have a new tool though (and coming from a tool *****, I know I like more tools), just stroll down to the local fastener store and buy a length of B7 threaded rod and nut the right size, then to the bearing store for a thrust bearing the right size, and presto- you save lotsa bux. No need to spend too much of your hard earned for a tool you'll use once, and didn't actually need.
At least, I don't need one, and I've done this job dozens of times.
Besides, that's how they install the balancer at the factory.
If you want to have a new tool though (and coming from a tool *****, I know I like more tools), just stroll down to the local fastener store and buy a length of B7 threaded rod and nut the right size, then to the bearing store for a thrust bearing the right size, and presto- you save lotsa bux. No need to spend too much of your hard earned for a tool you'll use once, and didn't actually need.
At least, I don't need one, and I've done this job dozens of times.
Have to agree! If you are a tool junky then go for it. If not then follow the directions already laid out for you. It will be fine.
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