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Hey Bros, I'm back and last time you guys helped out greatly with my problem. Many thanks. My 07 6.0L has only 43000 on it and after it is warmed and I run it for a bit on start up it will idle for a sec and die, then if it starts it will idle at low rpm and like sh** and if I hit the accelerator, nothing. I thought I was stranded, I waited about 5 min and it started and was able to get it home. No smoke, cold starts are fine. Plowed with it all last winter and it was awesome. No code pushed to the dash yet and I'm trying to get ahold of a scanner. Does anyone know where I can start to look. I use all MC filters and all were just changed a week ago. Thanks guys
Injector control pressure(ICP) Located on the pass side valve cover(towards the front of it) When the truck did what it was, try unplugging it and see if it fixes it.
Snap to connect(STC) Located on the High Pressure Oil Pump. It will cause problems starting/running hot.
Ok everyone, I had my batts load tested just to make sure and they are fine so I pulled and cleaned my egr valve and so far better. I will post if the problem returns. Thanks to all that posted. I hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving.
I recommend investing in a scangaugeII as the most cost effective scan tool. When you get a scan tool, make sure it is one that will dipslay the ICP readings (high pressure oil pressure) and the IPR duty cycle (the IPR is essentially the control valve for the high pressure oil system). There are a few places prone to leakage in the HPO system (STC fitting, dummy plugs, standpipes, and the O-rings on the injectors at the oil rail).
Thanks Mark, so the scangaugeII is a good one to get? My warranty was up in Aug. Would you recommend investing in an extended warranty or deleting the egr cooler now or none of the above and use as is until problems present themselves? A reputable Diesel mech once told me to get the thing off as soon as possible? Also I didn't change the o rings on egr valve when I cleaned with carb cleaner. Should I pull again and change them?
yes SG is a great unit for Gauges maybe not the Fanciest but does monitor ALOT
AS far as an EGR Deleate as long as you keep the oil cooler in operating spec no more than a 15* spread ECT vs EOT you should be fine. Ans yes SG will do these gauges for you. If you still dont like the OEM egr cooler you can deleate it or get a bullet proff one from BPD either way Folks dont have any issues after that
And you should replace the Orings on the egr valve but since its in and runs good your ok leave it
Any ideas? Ok, I drove the truck up to the auto parts store( about a 2 miles away) and then to Menards another mile. There it wouldn't start. It would almost start for a second then die. I sat for about half an hour or so then it started and I was able to get it home. I know I need to get it scanned but I'd like to hear some ideas. Thanks guys.
We could sit and go around all day maybe this maybe that or one time my friends 6.0 did this cuz of that All thats Great but Every Situation is diffrent to a point
The Best thing you could do is get a scan Gauge for 160.00 or an AE for 360.00 this is the best for a DIY guys but a SG would probably get you Dialed in
No, I bought it a year and a half ago from a used car lot in Georgia and I thought I had more time on the warranty but I called and found out it was up in August. That'a just how it goes for me.
The diagnostic fee will be around $100. I assume they will apply it to the repair if you have them do the work. A scangaugeII is $130 on Amazon.com ....... pretty good deal!