I ran adjustables way back in the hay day of the HP Fe's with a H-lift cam & HD V-springs. Well I wished they had Hyd. Lifters then. They are a real pain in the a$$. for the racing guys. They always needed adjusting and best while hot and running. Smoke off the header's get in the eyes. oil going every where making a big mess. These longer push rod seems like they would bend easier as. I had to replace a number of them once in a while when they would not stay straight. But, I did run high seat psi & as needed while running a
1/2" lift cam that was pretty big at that time 1962. I would not buy any used push-rods because they do take a real pounding when the valves are floated and bend more then 0.20 bend limit. I guarantee You'll not be a happy camper running them noise rocker when you keep hearing that one that you came get to stop tapping one.. Just do your more home work and you'll get a better understanding of how to get the lifter collapsed and check the clearance ez once you understand how..
orich

 

I just rebuilt the long block and bought a set of adjustable aluminum rocker shafts for my 390 to get the 1.76 ratio. Now, my question is what pushrods do I put in? I've never sized them before - will buying stock pushrods "9.328'" work- ball and cap?

 

what lifters Hyd. or solids Their use the be a test adjustable push rod om the market for figuring this out. I don't know what's being used in today's world. Summit has a test P-rod called Trick Flow Adjustable but they are ball ends so that's not ant help. Stuff like this is why, I don't like aftermarket stuff. Is seems your have to change 3 things to make one aftermarket thing work...orich

 

Hi, definately solid lifters, just put them in the other day

 

This would be easier If you did not in stall the intake yet!! I'd measure with a dowel the best you can from point A to point B and see if the stock P-rod length will fall into the working measurements that will work for you...orich