I am going to be removing the motor out of my 2004 F250 Superduty 4x4. I have my brothers car tomorrow morning and am going shoping for some tools,

are there any specialty tools I will need to complete the un-install of the motor. I.E fuel lines or anything I can't think of right now. I would like to get all the tools while I have my brothers car, if I need anything after his car is gone then I will be walking or riding a bike to the parts store.


Thanks.

 

You will need some of those fuel discount tools to get the fuel line off the fuel rail. You need to pull the intake manifold off to get it out of the way and attach something to in order to lift the engine up.

I pulled a V-10 out in a 99 for a friend of mine who needed the engine replaced. I built my own bracket to mount inplace of the intake manifold to so I had something for my engine hoist to grab onto. I actually made the plate for my 4.6L in my old pickup but it worked fine on the 6.8L V-10.

You will need an engine hoist to lift the engine. Drain buckets for the coolant. Metric tools since the bolts are all metirc. Screw drivers, pliers, ect.... basic hand tools.

I pulled the grill and radiator off so that I could leave the hood on and just lift the engine high enough to clear the front. It is a lot easier than taking the hood off and lifting the engine up that high and moving the engine hoist back.

In all I completed the swap with an engine purchased from a salvage yard in just under 14 hours. The project went very well and everything went as planned. I should add I spent 7 years as a technician on heavy/farm equipment so this kind of stuff comes easy to me.

Jeff.

 

Hey thanks bigblockford_390, So it's just the standard ford Fuel disconect tools.

yea I'm getting a new engine hoist, I allready have all the metric tools and basic hand tools. plenty of buckets and drain pans to drain stuff into. so it sounds like I just need to pick up the fuel line tools and the engine hoist and I should be set.


I was planning on removing the front grill, radiator and radiator support beam to pull it out that way, I figured I was going to have to remove the hood also, but I will leave the hood on since I can.

thanks again.

 

It is not the same tool as used to pull fuel filters, but I bought one at Napa years ago that worked fine. It kind of looks like a sissor hinging in the middle and on each end has the round cups used to slide into the fitting. Mine has four different sizes on the same tool.

The tool I have for the filters looks the same only it has two differnt sizes instead of four. I should add these tools are made of metal. A lot of the release tools are plastic which I personall am not a fan off.

I would think just about any parts store you go to should have the tool you need.

Jeff

 

Hey thanks, I will be sure to get the one with 4 different sizes on it. I'm heading to the parts store now.



Thanks

 

As for the plate you fab'ed to mount in place of the intake manifold for the engine hoist to grab onto, could I use chains. I know on the older cast iron blocks a few times I ran a chain from the back of the motor to the front of the motor bolted on each end. will that work on these blocks. I have sold all my metal working tools as I am getting ready for a move so I can't fab up a plate to mount in place of the intake manifold right now.



Thanks

 

The trouble I found was there are no good places to grab onto the Ford Modular engine compared to the old V-8's of the past. All the bolts are small like 8 and 10MM is size. I tried to grab on to a couple places on the front and rear cylinder heads and it looked like I was going to break stuff. Im not sure if it was required but I highly recommend getting the intake off to gain you extra room in lifting the engine up.

Jeff

 

I was affraid you might say that. well since the mounting holes for the intake manifold are flat, and not angled like the older blocks, maybe I can get away with a plate of metal and my drill. How thick should the metal plate be. 3/8ths Maybe.


Thanks

 

When I built my plate, I bought some flat iron around 5/16-3/8 inch thick by 2 inches wide or so. The plates are long enough that the run in place of the intake manifold and I used the intake gasket as a template to drill the holes. I used all the intake bolts to hold the 2 strips to the engine. I then used some thick plate I had to run across the valley of the engine and connect the two strips together which I welded the pieces together. I then used the old fashion carb lift plate that woud go in place of a carb on an intake manifold and bolted it to my homeade plate. It worked very well and I made it for my 4.6L. I used the same thing on the V-10 only it didnt quite cover all the intake bolts since the V-10 has an extra cylinder on each side, but it was more tan capaible of the job.

Jeff

 

Can't remember if the PS and A/C also uses one of these to disconnect?

 

I will need to figure something else out besides welding the two sides together because I sold my welder, Go figure, the one job I would have needed to use all my specialty tools comes after I sell all my stuff. but that's a good start, I can start with the two strips and figure out how to connect them across the valley of the motor.


Thanks

 

what did you do for the for the A/C coolant? I am assuming I need to remove the A/C cooler that's infront of the radiator and just behind the grill.



Thanks.

 

When I did it, I removed the headlights and grill and once I got there I was able to swing the A/C condenser to the right out of the way while leaving the lines hooked up. All the hoses were on the one side so it made it pretty easy to do. I did the same thing with the A/C compressor, taking the belt off the engine, un-bolting the compressor and moving out of my way. I never touched the A/C system other wise.

I discounted the heater hoses at the engine and swung them over to the right as well. The electrical is all on one spot on the left hand side needing a 10MM socket I think to loosen the big square connector up. The starter needs to be un-hooked and removed. There are either 4 or 6 nuts holding the flex plate to the torque converter depending on the year if you have the 4R100 auto trans, a couple motor mount bolts, fuel line, remove intake and split engine at transmission. This is a real short paraphrased version of what goes on but you will get the idea once you tear into it.

Jeff

 

sweet, I was not looking forward to dealing with the A/C system.




Thanks

 

Hey it just accured to me, that since the motor is frozen, I won't be able to turn the flexplate to undo all the bolts on the tourqe converter. so I am woundering can I just simply skip that step and when I go to pull the motor out the tourqe converter will come with the engine. or is there an extra step I have to do to get the tourqre converter free from the transmission.


Thanks