I wonder if it came out of a E-series van? other than minor changes the engines from the F-series 99-94 should be fairly close to use. I am not sure if they ever offered these engines in the F-650/750 heavy duty trucks but a van would be my only other guess. I cant think of another Ford product that uses the V-10. That is a bummer either way as you have to wait for another engine.

Jeff

 

yea I don't know much about the F650's or 750's but I haven't seen the V10 used in them either. I should have written the number down, instead of reading it directly when I was on the phone with the dealership. because now I am curious. the intake was also really weird, but the bolt pattern for the intake was the same, does ford have any V10 models set up with alternate fuel systems? that's another thing that keeps poping into my head, either way I'm glad I decided to call the dealership because I was thinking there was a good chance the long block would work with all my stuff swapped onto the motor. but the dealership said no.

Yea waiting and searching sucks but it's better then getting the motor almost in and then learn it won't work. No worries, I will find something.


Thanks.

 

Check out car-part.com, keep the dash between car and part. Its a search engine for salvage yards. I use it all the time when looking for parts nad pieces. You plug in what year, model, location and hit search and see what it pops up. That is where my buddy found the V-10 that I swapped in his truck and I have bought stuff from places back east and had it shipped with great sucsess.

The sensor in the front should be a crank sensor and I am not sure where else they would put it since you said there wasnt even a provision for it. Intakes could be different between F-series and E-series.

Jeff

 

car-part.com is now bookmarked on my list for auto parts.



Thanks.

 

I think they put the v10 in class A motorhomes.maybe that's were the motor came from.

 

Thanks for posting the pics. After looking at them for a few minutes, it looks a little easier than I'd thought it would be coming out the front. I'm hoping it's several years before I have to do this lol.

Very cool lift plate, and thanks for sharing it with us.







EDIT: What engine do those big a$$ main caps on the floor near to the engine stand belong to? I couldn't help but notice staring at that v-10 on the engine stand, and saw the pistons lying on the ground.

 

Ford/International 6.9 Diesel engine. I rebuilt it and installed it into that black 77 F-150 that was in the backround of one of the photos. It was a fun project to complete. I sold I sold it a about a year after I completed it since I found out our daugther was on the way.

I love engine swaps, I put a fuel injected 4.6L into my 65 F-100. It runs awesome and is a lot of fun to drive. That was the reason I made the plate in the first place.

Jeff

 

allright, I recieved the right engine. and of course have run into a few slow downs,

I'm done for tonight since I am tired and locked my freaken keys in the truck, I will call tripple A tomorrow morning and get them out while I finish some of the work.

first question- bolts on the tourque converter, I was prety darn sure I installed the T/C all the way, I slid it in. spun it while pushing in, it went in some more, spun it while pushing in and it went in some more, kept spinning it while pushing in and it didn't go in anymore. i double checked and think it's good. when I installed the engine once, the bolts on the bellhousing were in the block and the engine and transmission were flush, the T/C bolts are sticking through the holes on the flexplate a good amount. I was under the impression they were only supposed to show a little, just enough to get the nuts on them and then tighten them down. but they are prety much through all the way.

second question about that which makes me double guess is- the the I can't seem to turn the motor from the front so I can get to the rest of the T/C bolts. any sugggestions on how to turn the motor so I can put the rest of the nuts on the T/C bolts.

I know what your thinking, that the other motor was good and I am having the same problem, once I got the other motor out I still couldn't turn the motor over. with the new motor sitting in my garage before I installed it I tried turning the crank and had no problem turning it.

Thanks.

 

take the plugs out that will help to turn the motor over. More leverage is probably what you need. A long bar to assist.

 

I'll try it without the plugs in tomorrow, I had a long bar on the end of the ratchet, and the bolt started to tighting a little but the crank wasn't moving, that was with a lot of weight on it. but that's a good idea, maybe I have hit the compression stroke, so I will take the plugs out tomorrow morning and try it.

thanks

 

Hey, just remembered I didn't have the transmission in Nuetral when I slipped the Tourque Converter in. would that make a difference?



Thanks

 

No, the transmission can be in any gear. The engine still has to be able to turn to run when everything is connected. I assume you have the transmission in park?

 

I take it you removed the belt before trying to turn the crank?

 

yea it's in park. and yes the belt is removed. thats good to hear, for some reason when I was thinking about it I was like OH Crap, was I supposed to have the transmission in Nuetral while installing the tourque converter. then everything is probably ok I just need to gain acces to the T/C bolts and put the nuts on. I will remove the plugs tomorrow and see if that does the trick.


Thanks

 

I used a long handle ratchet about 3 feet with a socket right on the front of the engine and had no trouble turning the engine over with the plugs in. Leaving the plugs in makes it a little harder when it comes up on compression on a given cylinder but not enough to prevent you from turning the engine over by hand.

Does the torque converter appear to be putting a lot of pressure against the flex plate? Sometimes they can be a real pain in the ___ to get installed onto the transmission and other times they just slip right on. Just thinking out loud if it was not pushed in all the way and now that the engine is bolted up to the transmission could it be in a bind? Can you put a bar between the flex plate and the torque converter? Without the converter bolted to the flex plate there should be some movement, maybe 1/4 inch or so, not a lot but diffenitly some. There is not enough room to slide the converter all the way out of the hole in the flex plate but there is suppose to be movement when its un-bolted. There are three parts that have to get lined up, two shafts one that is larger and one smaller diameter which are both on the transmission and then the lugs on the outside of the conveter have to line up with the oil pump inside the transmission. If you cant stick a pry bar and move the converter I would have to guess its not in all the way and putting two much pressure against the flexplate putting in into a bind not letting you roll it over. If you cant move it try to loosen the bolts on the bellhousing of the transmission and see if it helps free it up if it does then you would know the converter is not in right. Just some ideas for you to look at.

Jeff