Get some combo wrenchs for lines. Line wrenches they call them. Good for taking the nuts off of lines.

some long and short extensions. Never know. And some wiggle tails I call them. Short extensions that swivel.

 

Some torque converters kind of lock in to the transmission by twisting a few times like an 1/8 of a turn to lock it in so they dont just pull out of the transmission when you split the two. Im not sure on the 4R100 Ford used in these trucks. If It does slide right out have a drain bucket under it as it will make a pretty good mess.

You might spray some WD40 down each spark plug hole to see if you can free it up.

Jeff

 

The TC will pull off tranny input shaft. But as said, it will likely make a big mess when it does.

 

I don't know anything about v10's but you say the motor is froze? If that means it won't crank over using the starter motor then you might be able to counter-rotate the engine using a large screw driver or pry bar on the ring gear. Remove what TC bolts you can get to then rotate in the reverse direction and you might get to the other bolts. Worth a try....

 

I couldn't get anything to turn, and was glad that the tourqe converter came straight out. it did have a lot of tranny fluid in it, which I was ready for. the motor is now out and the replacement motor should be here tomorrow. hopefully the install goes as smoothly as the un-instal did.

Thanks for all the help and I will be sure to post the finished results, or questions if they come first.

 

That is some good progress. So what you can do is drain all the fluids in your new paper weight.

Take that paper weight to the metal recycling place and get a couple bucks for it when you get the new motor in.

 

If you look at the torque converter there should be two sets of splines on the inside and maybe two flat spots on the out side where it slides into the transmission. When you install it make darn sure it slides all the way on all three items, sometimes it will take a while and some wiggeling to do it. When they are installed correctly and you install the engine and bolt them together the threads on the torque conveter should stick through enough to get the nuts on and when tightened it will pull the torque converter to the flex plate.

Do not put the converter back on the engine like you had to do to remove it to install it to the transmission. Put it on first.

Im not sure on the 4R100 but it is not incomon for a torque converter to hold several gallons of fluid. If it were me I would add a 3-4 quarts during the install and fire the truck up and let it run for a few seconds, shut it off and then re-check and add as needed.

I am glad to hear the removal went smooth! It really is not that bad of a job, and you are saving a ton of cash doing this yourself!

Jeff

 

Very nice thread, been looking to follow one of these, as I wasn't sure how easy it was to remove/install a V-10 in a SD. From the few people that i've talked to, they said the cab had to be removed. Looks like they were way wrong.

Any way we can get a picture of that engine hoist plate you fabbed up? not that I'm planning a motor swap, but it's nice to have the bases covered if it comes to that point.

Also, will the tranny support itself, or does it try to fall forward after removing the engine?

--Tagging along on this thread

 

Thanks, I will be sure to install the TC on the transmission before installing the engine.


MOpartsguy- yea the first article I saw about pulling these motors said to remove the cab, that's why I asked the question here. I can DEFFINITLY see how removing the cab would make things easier IF you had the shop and tools to do it correctly, but it's not bad at all removing the engine through the front. as it was recomended to me, taking the intake manifold off is a must, it give you a good amount of extra space when it comes to removing the motor, also it gives you acces to the two top tranny bolts and wiring in the back.

Oh and I never did fab up a lift plate. I was planning on doing that even if it ment buying a new welder. but looking at everything with the intake off, I took two heavy duty chains wrapped them around each head going under neath the exhaust manifolds, with the way the heads and block are angled it looked good to me. for extra peace of mind I used two Grade 8 bolts on each chain to bolt the ends together. I then hooked the cherry picker up to the chains in the center of the engine valley. I will take some pics of the hook up when I instal the replacement motor. I had no problems with the motor shifting its weight at all durring the removal process.


Thanks.

 

since I had to lift the motor a little bit before I could pull away from the transmission (due to the tourqe converting still attatched to the engine) I put a floor jack under the transmission and lifted that as the engine lifted, that way when the engine pulled away from the transmission it wouldn't fall. I then put a jack stand on the front of the transmission because it does try to fall down, I never removed the bolts from the tranny mount near the rear of the transmission though.

 

Always support the tranny when the motor is out.

 

That's the way! lol Glad it came out easily for you!!! Keep us updated.

.

 

well the driver showed up with the replacement engine, only it wasn't a match, not sure what vehicle that motor came out of but it's not going in my truck. the wrecking yard said they will look and maybe they just loaded the wrong engine, and if not then they will give me a full refund.


Thanks.

 

What is wrong with the engine? I pulled an eninge from a 1999 and replaced it with a 2002 engine. The engine I got as a replacement had different intake/heads and water neck leaving the engine block to the radiator. I had to swap the throttle body from the 99 engine and put it on the 2002 engine, swapped the injectors since the connectors were different and swapped the water outlet. The flexplate also had 6 bolts for the torque convertor and the 99 had 4 so I had to swap flex plates. The replacement engine had no exhaust manifolds so I had to swap those as well. Other wise it was a complete plug and play and we ran with it and it runs great.

You can see a picture of the plate I made and it balanced the engine really well. I paint all the special tools I make "red" so they stand out in my garage as a tool and not some piece of scrap to throw away.

Here are some pictures of the swap I completed for reference.

Jeff

 

thats a sweet looking lift plate!!

the oil pan was different, not just the shape but the bolt pattern was different. there were no sensors in the front of the motor, on my motor there is a sensor that goes into the block on the passenger side, in the front of the block near the A/C pump, and on the motor the driver showed up with there was no place for a sensor in that location. the peice that bolts onto the block for my oil filter was different, it has different number of bolts and shape was different, I ended up calling the ford dealership and giving them the number off of the engine and then my vin number on my truck and they said it wouldn't work. I wish I asked them what vehicle the engine came from.


thanks.