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Rust Preventative recommendations?

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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Rust Preventative recommendations?

hey guys i was going to remove my bed and coat it with a rust preventative in the spring, i just got my bed patched and don't want to go through that again so i was going to remove the foam pad and coat the bed, frame, etc with POR-15 what are your recommendations on this? I've heard good things about it but i was also thinking of using Eastwood Rust Converter and their other steps that follow it. I am willing to spend a little extra for a better product because i want it to last. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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I went after seams and whatnot with the wire wheel and primed the bare metal. Then I used 4 cans of Fluid Film all over the underside of the truck.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:19 AM
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Trying fluid film on all the door, tailgate, and hood seams, on the bed supports and some other areas. We shall see
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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Same here. I went a little overboard with mine. I took a wire brush to any areas that looked rusty and that led to the die grinder with a wire wheel. After I got done with that I figured I better put some primer on there for the winter. Finally I got to applying the Fluid Film. I wonder if I can make a bug bomb out of Fluid Film and set it off under the truck.

Maybe next spring I will get to putting POR-15 on everything.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
Same here. I went a little overboard with mine. I took a wire brush to any areas that looked rusty and that led to the die grinder with a wire wheel. After I got done with that I figured I better put some primer on there for the winter. Finally I got to applying the Fluid Film. I wonder if I can make a bug bomb out of Fluid Film and set it off under the truck.

Maybe next spring I will get to putting POR-15 on everything.
lol would you reccomend POR-15? i plan to most likely go overbboard with it as well lol because thats just how i am
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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I have had good luck with POR-15. I just don't have the time or the desire to deal with the POR-15 and top-coating it before winter.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
I have had good luck with POR-15. I just don't have the time or the desire to deal with the POR-15 and top-coating it before winter.
I agree that's why im waiting till spring lol
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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Por 15 is GREAT Stuff!! a lot of prep work though. Used it on a CRX Si Racecar that need some patchs on the floor. Worked GREAT!!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 04XL
Por 15 is GREAT Stuff!! a lot of prep work though. Used it on a CRX Si Racecar that need some patchs on the floor. Worked GREAT!!
Great to hear! Is it good in open areas with no rust?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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Por 15 works best with some rust present. Clean bare metal should be etch primed, sealed and then painted. Pors will be okay if not exposed to sunlight (it breaks it down). Eastwoods rust encapsalator works great also so use either one just make sure to get all the dirt and loose stuff off before hand.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by COE Guy
Por 15 works best with some rust present. Clean bare metal should be etch primed, sealed and then painted. Pors will be okay if not exposed to sunlight (it breaks it down). Eastwoods rust encapsalator works great also so use either one just make sure to get all the dirt and loose stuff off before hand.
Oh I Definetly planned on it, should I use something else on none rusty metal like bedliner, then topcoat over it?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 06:44 AM
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I think most bedliners work best when applied over paint. Check the directions on the bedliner that your going to use. Non rusty metal should be etch primed then sealed and then painted.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 07:40 AM
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How do you etch prime and seal it? Is that the eastwood fast etch stuff im assuming?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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I don't have the eastwood catalog in front of me but every paint line (PPG Dupont etc.) has roughly the same layout. First sand the metal with 180-240 sandpaper then clean it with a wax and grease remover or lacquer thinner. Then acid etch or epoxy prime the bare metal. Epoxy means like PPg's DP 90. After that sets up it can be sealed. The sealer is used as a barrier between the paint and the etch. It also provides better holdout for the paint by sealing it from the underlying products (etch or epoxy or POR15). Put the sealer on let it set up and then paint. Like I said everyone has their own way of doing it so go to your local auto paint store or eastwood and see what they have. Most important thing is read and follow the directions on the cans. Failure to do that will cause problems. Hope this clears it up.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by COE Guy
I don't have the eastwood catalog in front of me but every paint line (PPG Dupont etc.) has roughly the same layout. First sand the metal with 180-240 sandpaper then clean it with a wax and grease remover or lacquer thinner. Then acid etch or epoxy prime the bare metal. Epoxy means like PPg's DP 90. After that sets up it can be sealed. The sealer is used as a barrier between the paint and the etch. It also provides better holdout for the paint by sealing it from the underlying products (etch or epoxy or POR15). Put the sealer on let it set up and then paint. Like I said everyone has their own way of doing it so go to your local auto paint store or eastwood and see what they have. Most important thing is read and follow the directions on the cans. Failure to do that will cause problems. Hope this clears it up.
That is alot clearer now thank you, sorry I've never done body work before lol.
 
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