roger, Thanks

 

Thanks for the feedback! Glad youre enjoying!

I use what ever the specs call for. If I had to guess, I would say that most of the time I use metric.
Actually, when I use wrenches I will often go for a SAE because I have a wider selection of SAE wrenches. Most of my metric wrenches are on the small end.

 

Yes...HOLY CRAP THIS IS AN OLD THREAD!!
But it was referenced to me because I couldn't find any others with the info I needed. Great video! It is exactly what I am doing along with a couple of other items this weekend.
I have to ask tho....What the hell are you using for gloves? I have bought about 4 different kinds of latex and rubber gloves and I shred them all within 5 min of use. I finally just got mechanics gloves but they can be slight obstacle sometimes depending on what I am doing.

Thanks again for the video! Even if it is 7yrs old

 

Get a box of chemical resistant rubber gloves. There are all kinds out there and work great. Lowes, Home Depot sells them. Regular latex gloves don't last 5 min.

 

Yeah so I have noticed. Even the so called latex mech gloves from Harbor Freight die instantly.

I will check out HD on the way home.
Thanks!

 

"Even the so called latex mech gloves from Harbor Freight die instantly."

I've heard that most of the stuff from HF does the same thing.

 

I use nitrile gloves, been using them for many years. Brake cleaner will mess them up pretty quickly, carb cleaner a bit slower. Won't melt them, but they swell/expand and become easier to tear and the stuff permeates them enough to smell it on my skin after I take them off, but not enough that I can feel the stuff on my skin. They hold up to gun cleaners and other medium/mild solvents well. Oil, ATF, diesel, coolant seem to do nothing to them. They're harder to rip than latex too.

When I hit something sharp enough to cut them and me they seem to help clean the part before it enters me so there's less junk in the cut, plus there's no gunk on my skin to get pushed into the cut.

Latex get super slippery when oily, nitrile give better grip than skin on oily and especially coolant covered parts. The Harbor Freight nitrile gloves work fine. I have a friend that's a distributor for industrial safety stuff so I buy Radnor brand from him cheaper than HF.

 

I use the 7mil nitrile gloves from HarborFreight and they hold up well. The thinner 5mil ones - which are always on sale - tear easily. You can find 7mil gloves for a similar or sometimes better price online, it's just that the HF store is right around the block from my work. The 9mil are great for heavier work. I reuse them often, pull them off leave inside out to dry, then flip'em and blow them up with the air hose to get em back on easier.

 

Thanks for the info all! I go by an HF on my way home so sounds like I may have to give them a try once more. I honestly don't remember the thickness that I bought before. But will be stopping by Home Depot as well.

 

P0478 Question after cleaning tube and EBPS sensor replacement. QUICK side note: I’m running Jelli tunes on Hydra, EBPV delete and Pedestal delete. KOEO map, Baro and EBPS all read around 14.

Question is even after replacing sensor and cleaning tube, I keep getting P0478 as mainly a soft code but sometimes shows up as a hard Cade with CEL on. Is this related to the tuner?

What else should I check?

 

You'll get better responses if you start a new thread, rather than add to this one.

Were you getting the code before the sensor replacement? Is the new sensor a known Motorcraft from a known good source?

Mark

 

Hi Mark,

Probably should start a new thread.

I did put a new Motorcraft sensor on from RiffRaff.

the problem existed before I replaced the sensor and cleaned the tube which is part of why I did so.