No buzz= no start, long buzz= start
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Junior User
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From: Central Texas
No buzz= no start, long buzz= start
Recent work performed (2 weeks ago): replaced oil cooler, stc fitting replaced, New IPR, egr cooler connection hose replaced, egr delete (7 months ago). Drove home for lunch today and after truck sat for ~20 minutes, would not start. Tried 3 or 4 times and no start. Let sit for 5 minutes, turned the key and waited for the glow plugs to ready and noticed an extremely long injector(?) buzz. Wiated for it to stop, and truck started in normal time. Plan to check FICM voltage tonight but the temps are in the 60-70 so I'm not sure if this would qualify as a cold start condition. Help!!??
Last edited by dbcrowell; Nov 15, 2011 at 10:49 PM. Reason: change title due to no feedback
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Junior User
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From: Central Texas
Connected to an OBD II reader today and only got one code back. It was from the KOER test and it was a P1780 code for the tranny. not sure what it means exactly but I don't think it is related to the hard start condition. Still need to test the FICM to see where the voltages are. Even though it is starting, I am not chancing driving it until I figure out what is up.
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Junior User
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From: Central Texas
The ODB II reader was a Innova 3100 from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I do not have one yet. I performed the KOEO test and received no codes then ran the KOER test and got the P1780 code. The batteries are Motorcraft purchased in July 2010. Will check then charging system as soon as I can.
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Junior User
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From: Central Texas
Another FTE Success! I cannot tell y'all thanks enough! The information on this forum is absolutely awesome....
I checked the voltage drop on my FICM and found that before starting the voltage was 25 or so for a few seconds during the buzz. Then would jump to 48. After starting, the voltage stablize at 36. So I pulled the FICM out, reflowed the 16 solder joints on the power supply and put it back together. It got worse. The steady buzz became a pulsating buzz and the voltage drop got worse. So I thought maybe I screwed it up more than before. I came back and looked a few more related posts in the forum and found that there are 4 resistors or flat components on the front of the board that are suspect too. So I pulled the FICM back out and started to reflow those. As soon as I touched the iron to the first one, it popped off. On the other side landing pad, I saw that the solder paste used in the manufacturing process had never been flowed. So the component was only working off of physical contact not solder. Put the FICM back in and the voltage is constant at 48 before and after starting.
Thanks goes out to all posters on this site!
I checked the voltage drop on my FICM and found that before starting the voltage was 25 or so for a few seconds during the buzz. Then would jump to 48. After starting, the voltage stablize at 36. So I pulled the FICM out, reflowed the 16 solder joints on the power supply and put it back together. It got worse. The steady buzz became a pulsating buzz and the voltage drop got worse. So I thought maybe I screwed it up more than before. I came back and looked a few more related posts in the forum and found that there are 4 resistors or flat components on the front of the board that are suspect too. So I pulled the FICM back out and started to reflow those. As soon as I touched the iron to the first one, it popped off. On the other side landing pad, I saw that the solder paste used in the manufacturing process had never been flowed. So the component was only working off of physical contact not solder. Put the FICM back in and the voltage is constant at 48 before and after starting.
Thanks goes out to all posters on this site!
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Another FTE Success! I cannot tell y'all thanks enough! The information on this forum is absolutely awesome....
I checked the voltage drop on my FICM and found that before starting the voltage was 25 or so for a few seconds during the buzz. Then would jump to 48. After starting, the voltage stablize at 36. So I pulled the FICM out, reflowed the 16 solder joints on the power supply and put it back together. It got worse. The steady buzz became a pulsating buzz and the voltage drop got worse. So I thought maybe I screwed it up more than before. I came back and looked a few more related posts in the forum and found that there are 4 resistors or flat components on the front of the board that are suspect too. So I pulled the FICM back out and started to reflow those. As soon as I touched the iron to the first one, it popped off. On the other side landing pad, I saw that the solder paste used in the manufacturing process had never been flowed. So the component was only working off of physical contact not solder. Put the FICM back in and the voltage is constant at 48 before and after starting.
Thanks goes out to all posters on this site!
I checked the voltage drop on my FICM and found that before starting the voltage was 25 or so for a few seconds during the buzz. Then would jump to 48. After starting, the voltage stablize at 36. So I pulled the FICM out, reflowed the 16 solder joints on the power supply and put it back together. It got worse. The steady buzz became a pulsating buzz and the voltage drop got worse. So I thought maybe I screwed it up more than before. I came back and looked a few more related posts in the forum and found that there are 4 resistors or flat components on the front of the board that are suspect too. So I pulled the FICM back out and started to reflow those. As soon as I touched the iron to the first one, it popped off. On the other side landing pad, I saw that the solder paste used in the manufacturing process had never been flowed. So the component was only working off of physical contact not solder. Put the FICM back in and the voltage is constant at 48 before and after starting.
Thanks goes out to all posters on this site!
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