Strange no start!
#1
Strange no start!
Parked the truck last night and all was fine.
Went to start the truck today and let it warm up before hooking up the trailer and it dies withing a minute. Go to start it again and nothing. End up killing batteries. Checked for codes and had a bogus EGR code P0404. Bogus because the tune I run doesn't have the EGR enabled and it is deleted. Still plugged in though.
Hooked up dual battery chargers and sent the boy to pick up fuel and oil filters and oil. It was over due in both areas. Changed both and still no love.
So I drag out the laptop and set up my AE to monitor FLP,FLM,IPR,ICP,ICV,Sync.
KOEO
FLP 11.00
FLM 47.0
ICP 0
ICV .24
IPR 14.25 odd right?
Synch 0
Cranking
FLP 9.6
FLM 47.0
ICP 800-1600 varied the longer I cranked
ICV 2.2
IPR 14.24
Synch 1
still no start.
Still no codes.
I then cycled the IPR through AE a few times and turned the key. Damn thing fired right up.
Idling
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 875
ICV 1.4ish
IPR 26.4
Synch 1
I pushed the RPMs up to 2500
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 2200 iirc
ICV 2.24
IPR 42.0ish
Synch 1
Turned the truck off and restarted it a few times. No issues. Turned it off and pulled the positive cables and put the chargers back on it.
So the question is .....Is the IPR sticking on me? I just replaced the HPOP in the spring along with the up pipes. Made sure everything was clean. I actuated the IPR and cleaned it out. Put a new screen on it had zero leaks.
Any ideas will be appreciated because I hate getting stuck on the side of the road. This beast is getting ready to do it to me again I think!
Went to start the truck today and let it warm up before hooking up the trailer and it dies withing a minute. Go to start it again and nothing. End up killing batteries. Checked for codes and had a bogus EGR code P0404. Bogus because the tune I run doesn't have the EGR enabled and it is deleted. Still plugged in though.
Hooked up dual battery chargers and sent the boy to pick up fuel and oil filters and oil. It was over due in both areas. Changed both and still no love.
So I drag out the laptop and set up my AE to monitor FLP,FLM,IPR,ICP,ICV,Sync.
KOEO
FLP 11.00
FLM 47.0
ICP 0
ICV .24
IPR 14.25 odd right?
Synch 0
Cranking
FLP 9.6
FLM 47.0
ICP 800-1600 varied the longer I cranked
ICV 2.2
IPR 14.24
Synch 1
still no start.
Still no codes.
I then cycled the IPR through AE a few times and turned the key. Damn thing fired right up.
Idling
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 875
ICV 1.4ish
IPR 26.4
Synch 1
I pushed the RPMs up to 2500
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 2200 iirc
ICV 2.24
IPR 42.0ish
Synch 1
Turned the truck off and restarted it a few times. No issues. Turned it off and pulled the positive cables and put the chargers back on it.
So the question is .....Is the IPR sticking on me? I just replaced the HPOP in the spring along with the up pipes. Made sure everything was clean. I actuated the IPR and cleaned it out. Put a new screen on it had zero leaks.
Any ideas will be appreciated because I hate getting stuck on the side of the road. This beast is getting ready to do it to me again I think!
#2
#3
#6
So I just got a ride home on a flat bed.
Went out and checked that the batteries were charged 100% and hooked the cable up and cleaned up. Ran up to put fuel in it and no start again. Driving up Aletrnaor voltage was at 14.0 and FMP was 47.0 and FLP was 12.4.
Checked codes.
This time I showed high voltage codes for every injector. Called the house and had someone run up my laptop. Checked all the FICM pids and FLP was low again. Battery voltage was 12.7 before cranking and went to 11.0 while cranking. Still had synch. ICP and IPR values looked ok when cranking.
So I am going to call ED tomorrow and see about getting a FICM sent out with a relay. That is the only thing I can think of that is an issue.
Went out and checked that the batteries were charged 100% and hooked the cable up and cleaned up. Ran up to put fuel in it and no start again. Driving up Aletrnaor voltage was at 14.0 and FMP was 47.0 and FLP was 12.4.
Checked codes.
This time I showed high voltage codes for every injector. Called the house and had someone run up my laptop. Checked all the FICM pids and FLP was low again. Battery voltage was 12.7 before cranking and went to 11.0 while cranking. Still had synch. ICP and IPR values looked ok when cranking.
So I am going to call ED tomorrow and see about getting a FICM sent out with a relay. That is the only thing I can think of that is an issue.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Not to hijack your thread but I have a question that is relative to your situation. My truck has never not started but my SGII immediately after starting will show under 12v intermittently jumping over 12v from time to time and dipping under 12v occasionally to 10.5. My fmp stays over 47v at all times but my flp will sometimes fall under 12v, maybe to 11v. I'm assuming this is all happening while the glow plugs are on because after a short while of this the voltage jumps up above 13v and stays there. Is this normal or am I looking at bad batteries?
#9
Not to hijack your thread but I have a question that is relative to your situation. My truck has never not started but my SGII immediately after starting will show under 12v intermittently jumping over 12v from time to time and dipping under 12v occasionally to 10.5. My fmp stays over 47v at all times but my flp will sometimes fall under 12v, maybe to 11v. I'm assuming this is all happening while the glow plugs are on because after a short while of this the voltage jumps up above 13v and stays there. Is this normal or am I looking at bad batteries?
PS.....those that know better will leave headlights and blower fan off when the Gp's are cycling, why strain things anymore than needed?
#10
Well waiting on a box from ED!
My wallet is very light! It might get lighter once Ed looks at my current FICM. It appears that the logic board is being unlogical, So if my core is beyond repair I may have to put out more$.
As always Ed is the man...talked to me for about 30 minutes on the phone.
Tossed a few new relays in and fuses just for giggles..no love...
My wallet is very light! It might get lighter once Ed looks at my current FICM. It appears that the logic board is being unlogical, So if my core is beyond repair I may have to put out more$.
As always Ed is the man...talked to me for about 30 minutes on the phone.
Tossed a few new relays in and fuses just for giggles..no love...
#11
So an update as I wait impatiently for my box from Ed.....
I pulled the alternator and batteries. Turns out the(brand new not rebuilt) newly replaced box store alternator took a crap after 2 months of service. It also fried a battery. So 2 new batteries and a new alternator.
Orielly's wouldn't replace my lifetime warranty alternator a second time because they couldn't find the original purchase invoice in their system. Not happy about that.
So as I was pulling the FICM last night, I thought about my conversation with Ed and the fact that his lifetime warranty is void if you have a bad alternator or battery from the onset. So 10 minutes later both batteries and the alternator were out and in the car. A trip to my not so favorite store at then moment and my suspicions were confirmed.....
A trip to another box store to get my favorite flavor of batteries and a check of their data base to double check i did not buy the alternator there and then to the last of the box stores to check....No dice.....
So I started surfing looking for alternator options. I am a cheap ******* plus with the last few months of life.......my wallet is very light atm...
I couldn't bring myself to drop the jack on a 250 plus AMP alternator for what i make in a few days...I also did not want to wait another 2-5 days to get the truck back up.
I called all the places I could think of and then called the last resort that was local. It is a place that built there business on fixing electrical issues on anything automotive based. They eventually went into all types of motors, generators and alternators. They also reman on site if you have an odd ball item. They also are difficult to deal with sometimes. Small man syndrome describes the mentality best.
So after a 20 minute phone call and a 30 minute visit to their showroom I picked up a 200 AMP alternator for a very reasonable price. It is a line they build in house with all new parts! It came with a test sheet attached to it showing the bench test.
They also pulled out a Leech Neville 230 AMP and asked if I wanted that one? Since I am light atm on funds I had to turn it down. But I was surprised at how low of a price they had on it for walk in customers. Lets just say that it was well over $130 cheaper then what you will find on the internet.
So once my box shows up from ED I will see how my new alternator works.
Now if anyone is in need of an Alternator/starter supplier send me a PM and I will be more then glad to give you the information on the local supplier I found.
I pulled the alternator and batteries. Turns out the(brand new not rebuilt) newly replaced box store alternator took a crap after 2 months of service. It also fried a battery. So 2 new batteries and a new alternator.
Orielly's wouldn't replace my lifetime warranty alternator a second time because they couldn't find the original purchase invoice in their system. Not happy about that.
So as I was pulling the FICM last night, I thought about my conversation with Ed and the fact that his lifetime warranty is void if you have a bad alternator or battery from the onset. So 10 minutes later both batteries and the alternator were out and in the car. A trip to my not so favorite store at then moment and my suspicions were confirmed.....
A trip to another box store to get my favorite flavor of batteries and a check of their data base to double check i did not buy the alternator there and then to the last of the box stores to check....No dice.....
So I started surfing looking for alternator options. I am a cheap ******* plus with the last few months of life.......my wallet is very light atm...
I couldn't bring myself to drop the jack on a 250 plus AMP alternator for what i make in a few days...I also did not want to wait another 2-5 days to get the truck back up.
I called all the places I could think of and then called the last resort that was local. It is a place that built there business on fixing electrical issues on anything automotive based. They eventually went into all types of motors, generators and alternators. They also reman on site if you have an odd ball item. They also are difficult to deal with sometimes. Small man syndrome describes the mentality best.
So after a 20 minute phone call and a 30 minute visit to their showroom I picked up a 200 AMP alternator for a very reasonable price. It is a line they build in house with all new parts! It came with a test sheet attached to it showing the bench test.
They also pulled out a Leech Neville 230 AMP and asked if I wanted that one? Since I am light atm on funds I had to turn it down. But I was surprised at how low of a price they had on it for walk in customers. Lets just say that it was well over $130 cheaper then what you will find on the internet.
So once my box shows up from ED I will see how my new alternator works.
Now if anyone is in need of an Alternator/starter supplier send me a PM and I will be more then glad to give you the information on the local supplier I found.
#12
Iv had that same problem at oreilys over warrenty
I usually keep every receipt and every box just in case
But I got Ball joints awhile back and threw out the Box couldn't find receipts
I had to exchange my moog Ball joints and it took the guy 20 minutes to pull it up I had 3 phone numbers for parts and they have consolidated there system to the most recent phone #
IDK what the dude did but I was about to leave and he Finally pulled it Up and did the warrenty
SO I guess im saying that the warrenty not pulling in the computer may very well be the Guy at parts desk running the dam computer wrong
I usually keep every receipt and every box just in case
But I got Ball joints awhile back and threw out the Box couldn't find receipts
I had to exchange my moog Ball joints and it took the guy 20 minutes to pull it up I had 3 phone numbers for parts and they have consolidated there system to the most recent phone #
IDK what the dude did but I was about to leave and he Finally pulled it Up and did the warrenty
SO I guess im saying that the warrenty not pulling in the computer may very well be the Guy at parts desk running the dam computer wrong
#13
Wildman, there is a local shop here (GM Electric) that rebuilt my alternator in 2008. I have had no problems. These guys have been in business for over 50 years. They know what they are doing. No big production lines. Sometimes a small local shop that has been around for awhile is your best bet.
I think it cost me $110.00 am very happy.
I think it cost me $110.00 am very happy.
#14
Let us know how this works out for you.
I got a 185(?) amp alternator from Advance for my '05, we'll see how long it lasts.
I had replaced my wife's Camry starter (reman from O'reilly's) in May, it went out again in late July (did in in a parking lot at 10pm, 105 deg outside, mosquitoes and no breeze) fun, fun , fun.
Oreilly's didn't give me any gruff on the replacement.
Best of luck.
I got a 185(?) amp alternator from Advance for my '05, we'll see how long it lasts.
I had replaced my wife's Camry starter (reman from O'reilly's) in May, it went out again in late July (did in in a parking lot at 10pm, 105 deg outside, mosquitoes and no breeze) fun, fun , fun.
Oreilly's didn't give me any gruff on the replacement.
Best of luck.