Brakes
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Senior User
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No before I start the motor the peddle has pressure starting at about 1/4 the way to the floor, then when its started it goes all the way to the floor, basically. Not enough pressure to speak off really.
I had worried it was the master. Lets say that's it, would that explain the -peddle to the floor after vacuum- and -brakes sticking- problems I've been having for 3 months of this project?
When i cleaned the calipers the one on the left (original) was full of rust and trash, lines too. Could that have cause the master cylinder to fail with so few miles on it since it was replaced?
I'm just tired of buying things that don't necessarily need.
I had worried it was the master. Lets say that's it, would that explain the -peddle to the floor after vacuum- and -brakes sticking- problems I've been having for 3 months of this project?
When i cleaned the calipers the one on the left (original) was full of rust and trash, lines too. Could that have cause the master cylinder to fail with so few miles on it since it was replaced?
I'm just tired of buying things that don't necessarily need.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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check all the rubber brake hoses while somebody pumps the pedal. sounds like you could have a rubber hose that is acting like a one way check valve. it will let the fluid go to the wheel but it won't immediatly let the fluid return to the mc.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Trash in lines can cause sticking and premature failure of the master cylinder, calipers and wheel cylinders.
What usually causes sticking is either the caliper pistons sticking or the slides on the calipers.
What usually causes sticking is either the caliper pistons sticking or the slides on the calipers.
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I replaced all the lines on the front and rebuilt the calipers. Thats what I thought it was at first.
Now... I haven't had them stick since the, however I haven't got the brakes to work since either.
That's why the master was my new questionable part. Reason being, I am not getting any pressure on the peddle. Plus that the pressure wouldn't bleed off before. Also I didn't have but maybe >half of the stroke on the peddle with resistance when I got the truck.
Now... I haven't had them stick since the, however I haven't got the brakes to work since either.
That's why the master was my new questionable part. Reason being, I am not getting any pressure on the peddle. Plus that the pressure wouldn't bleed off before. Also I didn't have but maybe >half of the stroke on the peddle with resistance when I got the truck.
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Well I had pressure before I started this adventure and it was adjusted to far in. However I am going to check it again, replace the left rear wheel cylinder, and adjust the rear brake shoes.
If that doesn't fix it then Ill replace the master.
If that doesn't fix it then Ill replace the master.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 521
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Does the master only do this at start-up? Or each time you put on the brakes? What happens when you just put constant light pressure on the brakes? If the constant light pressure causes the pedal to sink to the floor, your master cyl is bad and leaking internally.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
There has to be a little bit of free play between the Brake Pedal rod to the booster and a little between the booster and the MC. They get goofy when there is none. The rod sticking out from the booster should extend 0.995" from the mounting surface of the booster.
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Yeah .995" is what I set it to and it has free play.
38chevy454 I think it is the master, it will have pressure b4 start up. Then as soon as the vac pump kicks in it goes to the floor... And stays, will not pump up.
38chevy454 I think it is the master, it will have pressure b4 start up. Then as soon as the vac pump kicks in it goes to the floor... And stays, will not pump up.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Western Mass
You said the PO changed the master? Is that correct? Where the brakes ever working correct? Because if they didn't bench bleed the master before installing it, there could still be air trapped in the master which could be causing part of the problem.
Or the master might be bad... they aren't too costly, and should be easy to swap if done recently (lines shouldn't be frozen up..)
Or the master might be bad... they aren't too costly, and should be easy to swap if done recently (lines shouldn't be frozen up..)
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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