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I have a '91 f250 diesel 4x4 with a brake problem. after it sits a day or two the brakes have pressure but as soon as you start the motor the resistance in the peddle goes to nothing and the peddle hits the floor.
I have replaceineptly lines on the front, rebuilt and cleaned the calipers, 99% new fluid, and replaced the right rear wheel seal, and bled the system several times.
when I got the truck the brakes hung and would get tighter the longer you drove it. The po replaced the right front caliper, booster pump, and master cylinder.
It sounds like a master cylinder to me even though it was changed. It wouldn't be the first time a bad one was found out of the box. Was it a rebuilt or a new one. For the price difference I go with new.
When you bled the brakes did you bleed the RABS module? It is bolted to the inside of the left side frame rail about level with where the driver sits. You bleed it just like a brake.
Usually if the brakes won't release, it is a caliper sticking, but i did change a master cyl once and the rod was too long. This let them roll until you hit the brakes and then it would hold a small bit of pressure.
It sounds to me like you need to adjust your rear brakes.
i meant the pushrod that is in the brake booster on the firewall that applies pressure to the master cylinder when you hit th brake pedal. that pushrod does not have 1/2" of travel.
When you crank it, your power gets to it,and it is easier to push the pedal, any vehicle with power will drop the pedal some when you crank it. If you didn't adjust your rear brakes when you installed new pads on the front, it is not unusual for the pedal to go to the floor. Will it pump up and hold steady, if so your rear brakes need adjusting.
The pushrod from the booster is the Oneida adjusted to specs(may have exaggerated on the 1/2")
And I havent adjusted the left rear pads yet but the right is correct.
When the truck starts the peddle goes about 3/4's the length of its travel. Then, it does not pump up any. It may have a tiny bit at the very end, just enough to slow the truck at 10mph, but NO more.
so with the engine running there is no resistance in the brake pedal until you get 3/4 of the way threw it's stroke, then you get brakeing power but not enough to stop the truck?
If the rod is adjusted right to the master cylinder it should pump up, if it bleeds back down while you are holding pressure on it, the master is bleeding off, if it pumps up and feels spongy, their is still air in the system.
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