ABS light comes on intermittantly
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
ABS light comes on intermittantly
Hi guys,
I've recently acquired a 95 Ranger XL with the 3.0 automatic. I am noticing an issue with the ABS light coming on from time to time. So far, I haven't noticed any rhyme or reason for it, and the brakes seem to be working normally. It's almost like every 5th time you drive it, the light comes on. It stays on until you drive for a while, then turn the engine off. The next time you start it, no light. I've tried tricking it when the light comes on to shut off the engine and restart, but it won't be fooled by that. It'll stay off for a few seconds then comes on again. But if you drive for a while, go wherever you were going to go, when you get back in again it stays off. Strange. Any thoughts or ideas? Any idea how to make it stop doing this, short of removing the bulb?
Thanks.
I've recently acquired a 95 Ranger XL with the 3.0 automatic. I am noticing an issue with the ABS light coming on from time to time. So far, I haven't noticed any rhyme or reason for it, and the brakes seem to be working normally. It's almost like every 5th time you drive it, the light comes on. It stays on until you drive for a while, then turn the engine off. The next time you start it, no light. I've tried tricking it when the light comes on to shut off the engine and restart, but it won't be fooled by that. It'll stay off for a few seconds then comes on again. But if you drive for a while, go wherever you were going to go, when you get back in again it stays off. Strange. Any thoughts or ideas? Any idea how to make it stop doing this, short of removing the bulb?
Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 1
From: Dexter, MI
You may be having a problem with the ABS components. The most likely suspect is the sensor mounted on the differential housing. It may have a poor electical connection or be dirty. It is easy to access and remove - remove one bolt and it will pull out from the diff. housing.
In the meantime, the standard brake system is still fully functional. The only thing you don't have is the ABS capability.
In the meantime, the standard brake system is still fully functional. The only thing you don't have is the ABS capability.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
If tranny shifting, speed-o, or cruise control are also acting out, put the rear ABS speed sensor at the top of your suspect list as has been said, as those systems also use the rear speed sensors output to do their things, so if it's corrupt, one or more of them will likely act out too.
Rangers of your year were in a cross over mode, so is your 95 OBD-2, or is it still OBD-1???? If it's OBD-1, you can extract the ABS codes by following the suggestions Rockledge posted in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html
If your truck is OBD-2 you'll need a scanner that can read ABS codes & Actron now markets one, other wise you'll need to run this puppy by a brake shop & have them scan the ABS system with their pro scanner to get the codes.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
Rangers of your year were in a cross over mode, so is your 95 OBD-2, or is it still OBD-1???? If it's OBD-1, you can extract the ABS codes by following the suggestions Rockledge posted in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html
If your truck is OBD-2 you'll need a scanner that can read ABS codes & Actron now markets one, other wise you'll need to run this puppy by a brake shop & have them scan the ABS system with their pro scanner to get the codes.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Going to add another possibility. How dark is the fluid in the master cyl? Brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture, and as it does it starts turning darker. If the fluid looks rather dark, it could need flushed.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
Thanks for the ideas, guys. Brake fluid level is normal, but I'm sure it probably could benefit from a flushing. When I got it, all the other fluids did. I'll crawl underneath and check the connection at the rear. I'm assuming it'll be readily apparent what and where it is? Is it a sensor that frequently fails? Is there a test for it to determine functionality? I have no idea if it's OBD I or II. Where would I find that info? I haven't noticed any other drivability issues with the trans or speedo, and unfortunately it's a plain-jane model, no cruise.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
The speed sensor is atop the front center of the rear differential housing. One 9 or 10 mm hold down bolt & one electrical connector. One member a year or so ago found the wiring insulation to his sensor rubbed through & shorting out just inside where it's wire loom ends atop the axle. His would act out he thought when wind at speed would move things around & cause the bare wires to rub together.
A scantool that'll read & display PID's can display the speed sensors output when the vehicle is moving. If it's bad, the computer should set a trouble code for it.
If your DLC is under hood, it's OBD-1, if it's in the cab, on the dash below the steering wheel, it's OBD-2.
It could have trash on the front wheel tone ring or wheel speed sensor, if you have 4WABS.
A scantool that'll read & display PID's can display the speed sensors output when the vehicle is moving. If it's bad, the computer should set a trouble code for it.
If your DLC is under hood, it's OBD-1, if it's in the cab, on the dash below the steering wheel, it's OBD-2.
It could have trash on the front wheel tone ring or wheel speed sensor, if you have 4WABS.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
update
I cleaned the electrical connection at the rear diff sensor over the weekend and that made no difference. I dodn't notice any other defects there. Right on schedule, the fifth time I drove the truck after the last time the ABS light came on, this morning there it was, shining bright as day. I stopped in to Autozone to have the code read and they came back with P1443, which says EVAP canister purge valve fault. Probable cause failed EVAP sensor, blocked hose between purge valve and FTP sensor or EVAP purge valve stuck closed. Nothing that had anything to do with ABS brakes or the braking system.
So I guess my question(s) now is; could this be an unrelated problem and it just didn't throw an ABS code? Could there be a bad ABS sensor somewhere throwing a bad code, or no code at all but lighting the light? Or is there some wierd connection between these things, ie; why would an EVAP issue trigger the ABS light? I'm not real keen on dumping hundreds of dollars worth of sensors into this thing without having some idea of what I'm doing. Any insight or input is appreciated. It is OBD II with the connector under the steering column.
So I guess my question(s) now is; could this be an unrelated problem and it just didn't throw an ABS code? Could there be a bad ABS sensor somewhere throwing a bad code, or no code at all but lighting the light? Or is there some wierd connection between these things, ie; why would an EVAP issue trigger the ABS light? I'm not real keen on dumping hundreds of dollars worth of sensors into this thing without having some idea of what I'm doing. Any insight or input is appreciated. It is OBD II with the connector under the steering column.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
The scanners used at most parts stores cannot read ABS/Air bag codes. The type most shops use, can. Of course, many shops also charge a small fee to read codes, to help offset the cost of the scanners they use, since they cost 3-6 times as much as the ones parts stores use.
The evap code was likely a pending code, unless the check engine light was coming on. Totally unrelated to the ABS light issue.
The evap code was likely a pending code, unless the check engine light was coming on. Totally unrelated to the ABS light issue.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Sounds like you have more than one problem.
Again, do you have 4WABS & if so, have you checked the front wheel sensors & tone ring for debris???? If so & no joy there & seeing as how you don't notice any speed-o problems, don't have an auto tranny or cruise control, any of which could tattle on an acting out rear ABS speed sensor if they were also having problems, your left with choosing to invest in an Actron ABS brake scan tool, or maybe pay a small fee to have a brake shop scan the system for trouble codes as has been said & post the trouble code found, as it could offer up a good trouble shooting clue.
The evap code is for a seperate system & not likely related, unless something in the computer is really screwed up some way not understood. The evap purge valve is a common problem part, so it belongs on your suspect list.
Again, do you have 4WABS & if so, have you checked the front wheel sensors & tone ring for debris???? If so & no joy there & seeing as how you don't notice any speed-o problems, don't have an auto tranny or cruise control, any of which could tattle on an acting out rear ABS speed sensor if they were also having problems, your left with choosing to invest in an Actron ABS brake scan tool, or maybe pay a small fee to have a brake shop scan the system for trouble codes as has been said & post the trouble code found, as it could offer up a good trouble shooting clue.
The evap code is for a seperate system & not likely related, unless something in the computer is really screwed up some way not understood. The evap purge valve is a common problem part, so it belongs on your suspect list.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Smithfield N.C.
"52 when you get a chance pull the sensor out of the rear differential housing. They are magnetic and pick up their signal from the toothed gear attached to the ring gear. If the truck has had any bearing issues and has any matel flake in the rear gear oil they could have stuck to the sensor. Pull it out and clean it good and see if this helps. Or since it is out throw a new one in they aren't that expensive. The '95 should be the RWABS system and it is first generation abs in the rangers. Not to complicated. good luck. 
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Saratoga, NY
One thing you could try is connecting a a/c voltmeter to the sensor and spin the rear wheels you should get some sort of voltage, not sure what it would be. If there is nothing then suspect a bad sensor, I got the same problem, when I first got the truck the light would go on and off intermittently, now it's on all the time. Just havn't got around to checking it yet.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 624
Likes: 2
From: FL
^^ x2 ..i just had the abs light flickering on/off then eventually the brake light flickered as well. the fluid level in the master cylinder was just low enough to trigger the sensor. topped off to the max mark and both lights went away. edit: 2nd day lights still out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,533
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From: Dexter, MI
I would encourage you to take your Ranger to a brake shop - Tuffy, Midas or some similar type place. Usually they do an inspection and diagnostic work before doing anything else. If you don't want them to do any repair work, thank them and bring the information they have given you, including any codes, and bring them here. It sounds more and more like you have a problem in the ABS system. There are 3 main components in the system. Trouble codes should point us to the source of your problem.
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