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I have an ABS issue that has not been directly addressed. I understand that without codes everything is all speculation, so don't flame my post. I am new to this forum and just looking for ideas...2002 Ranger XLT, 2.3L, 4 cyl, 5 Speed Manual, 4WABS (I believe), 65,000 miles.
Here's what happens, in order and when the ABS light comes on...
I start the truck in the driveway (ABS light is off), drive to the end and stop (I can hear/feel the ABS kick in, and the light usually comes on this first time). I pull onto the road and drive to the stopsign (if ABS light was still off, I can hear/feel ABS kick in a second time, and the ABS light will now come on).
The problem is strange. Basically, when the light is off and I hit the brakes (on dry pavement) the ABS kicks in, but when the light is on, obviously the ABS is not active.
I have checked the fluid level and it seems fine. Probably one of the sensors? Just looking for ideas and why the ABS would kick in all the time until the light comes on.
Is your speedo erratic? Have the ABS codes pulled along with normal codes. Post them here.
Could be numerous things at this point. Either back brake grabbing?
Speedo is fine. In fact almost everything in/on the truck works perfect. The only thing that appears abnormal is just this ABS issue, no symptoms/signs which is why I say it has not been addressed because the others have all had speedo issues, etc. I just hear/feel the ABS engage when I stop the first or second time then the light comes on and the brakes seem normal (without the ABS of course).
From time to time the brakes do pull to the left if that helps at all...
I will try to call a couple other places tomorrow and see if any can read the ABS codes, but Autozone says they evidenlty can't read the ABS codes.
Last edited by ranger61878; May 21, 2006 at 04:04 PM.
Are they the original brakes? 65k is a lot of miles especially city. Could be getting to the end of the usage and that will turn on the light. I've had an issue like that and once I put on new shoes and pads and bled the system (which can be a pain) away I went and stopped. No more light
My 2000 Ford Ranger does the same thing. Usually the light comes on by the end of the driveway, however, if the light stays off my vehicle will engage the ABS and pull to the right. This has almost involved me in SEVERAL accidents. If the light stays ON, then the breaks work without ABS and I can actually stop. Usually if the light stays off, I can shut my truck off and restart it and the light will come on, giving me functional breaks. Just wondering if you found any good information on this?!? HELP!
In both cases, particularly Fordboy's, it sounds to me like one or more of the ABS speed sensors on the front wheels could be the culprit. The ABS system could be getting fooled by a bad speed signal and engaging/disengaging at the wrong times. On some vehicles, for example, foreign matter can collect between the sensor magnet and the ABS ring which will cause the same type of symptoms.
I am going to ask a really dumb question...where is the ABS sensor located on the front wheels? I know it is somewhere behind the tire/brake assembly. I am not going to remove it or anything, I just wanna take a look and maybe see how dirty it is.
Look for the circular part on the half shaft (axle) that has the teeth on it. The sensor is positioned so that it can "read" the teeth (and hence know how fast the wheel/axle is spinning).
This is my first post ever just joined a few minutes ago so if i am not in the right spot, let me know. I have a 1992 Ranger with 240K miles. Today for the first time ever, the rear antilock light came on, the turn signals stopped working and the blower fan on the climate control quit. Bad ground maybe?? Thanks anybody.
My wifes 01 Escape was doing exactly the same thing as you described. I looked everything over, pulled the rotors, calipers, checked the sensors for foreign matter, and found everything to be ok. The wheel just happened to be in the right spot when I was reassembling everything and I noticed the ABS sensor ring (with the teeth) was cracked and was separated about 3/16 of an inch. That explained to me thats why it would only happen in the driveway and not at cruising speeds - at normal driving speeds the opening in the ring would pass the sensor so fast, it wouldn't detect it, but at slow speeds, it would. I slid the ring (which shouldn't be able to move at all) outward, scraped the rust out from underneath it, and slid it back into place. The gap closed up and she has not had any issues since. NOW, the interesting thing. That sensor ring SHOULD NOT move. It was allowed to move because of the crack.... and now the kicker...that ring is only available with the complete axle shaft at a cost of $400!!!! My $5 fix - clean under the ring well, JB weld a couple of spots under the ring to hold it in place - just make sure the crack closes as tight as you can get it. Last case fix, pull the 60 amp fuse out from under the hood that controls the ABS motor. I have used the JB weld procedure and have never had any more problems. Hope this helps you out!!!!