I ran all 3 layers across the entire bottom of the cab as well as up the back wall of the cab. I also did the headliner. I was also able to slide some of the jute backed insulation inside of the cab corners and cab walls. I also ran as much of the layers up the firewall. Also put some behind the instrument cluster and dash....as much as I could get back there without taking out the dash. I left some of that loose as I didn't want to create any "moisture" issues. Feel free to ask as many questions as you 'd like.

 

Since you said I could ask.

-What, if anything, did you do on the underside of the hood? The dentside hoods are drilled for a hood pad, but I've never seen one installed. Not sure on the bumps?

-Thinking aloud, I wonder if there is a way to adapt the later dentside plastic inner fender liners to a bump.. If there were a way, you could put the zill mat on top of them.. creating inner fender liners similar to a new power stroke diesel.

- I'm not sure how I feel about cab corners stuffed with jute insulation. Long term, I can see that being a moisture trap.

- Rather than jute insulation, how do you feel synthetic carpet padding would work? Similar to Lowes/Home Depot/Carpet store stuff sold in a roll?

- Has this gone through a full summer/winter heat cycle.. and if yes, have you checked for peeling/sagging material?

 

tI had not done anything to the hood. I know that the zillamat can be applied to the hood, in smaller sections as you wouldn't want to do the entire hood as that would be very heavy. You couldn then apply a layer of insulation over that. I was considering applying just a few small sections of Zillamat and then I was going to either apply a layer of the foil backed jute insulation on top of that or do some research on specific hood liners. The foil back would help deflect heat.

In regard to the cab corners, I was researched that and was very careful not to cram any moisture trapping insulation in there. In the areas, like the ceiling area, where I slipped some of the jute backed insulation into a couple of cavities, as well as the corner areas, I put some insulation in there but it is "loose" in those cavities as I wanted to make sure that air could circulate. It's not totally sound proofed but I figured it was better than nothing. It has gone an entire year cycle and absolutely no problem of moisture or indication of such. Everything is intact and not sagging or moist, etc.

I wasn't hung up on the jute stuff, I was just trying to find something relatively cheap, dense, had the foil and around 3/8" so that is what I decided to use. I think the synthetic padding would probably do a similar job. I just didn't want to use the air bubble or fiberglass insulation as they have almost no sound barrier qualities. Closed cell neoprene would have been even better but it was a little pricey. I ultimately decided to top it all off with the 1/8" mass loaded vinyl which is heavy and a little hard to work with but it is a strong sound barrier.

I can't really comment on the fender well adaption as I have never looked at that but I did apply a heavy commercial type of rubberized undercoating with a sound elimination in it, underneath the cab floor and other areas that were unprotected and could transmit sound/vibration to the cab. This included part of the C6 tranny hump from underneath. I am pretty happy with the results.

I am planning on doing this similar project to my 74 F350 at some point. Based on what I learned from the 72 bump project, I will use the Zillamat but I will not totally cover every square inch of the floor, under the seat, cab walls. The point of the sound deadener is to eliminate vibration and therefore just some put into strategic places will accomplish this task and save money. I will also probably not use the jute backed insulation and 1/8" MLV, only because it was a little cumbersome to work with. This time I will use a closed cell neoprene that has a layer of rubber/vinyl built into it as a decoupler. Kind of a all in one product like the Dynamat Dynapad. I think this will be easier, more effective, and lighter and thinner. Depending on what I find, it may be a little more $ or about the same but I think worth it. I will do this to the cab floor, headliner. I will do something similar to the doors like I did with the 72. I have to be very careful with the door cavity due to the obvious moisture issue. I will also do the rubberized undercoat under the cab and in the door, as that in itself made a very significant impact alone.

 

has anyone bought the stuff broncograveyard or LMC sells with there carpet, door panels, ect? I was pricing some interior stuff and saw they had insulation kits but didn't know if that would be enough

 

Can't say that I have heard anything about them. LMC stuff is usually decent quality though