Hey guys,

I've been searching for a solution to this starting issue my 2006 f350 6.0 has been having for a couple of months now. I found another thread (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-to-start.html) where this was discussed, in fact, it describes to the "T" the same symptoms I'm seeing, however there doesn't appear to have a determined root cause.

The problem is when my trucik is facing downhill (hood down) or on level ground, it takes about 5-6 seconds of cranking before it starts. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold outside. When it's facing uphill it cranks right up flawlessly, even if it's been sitting in the cold for a couple days. Once the engine has been running, it will start back up no problem, it's only after it's been shut off for a few hours that it's hard to start, and it's only on level ground or facing downhill. When I say downhill, we're talking aobut 5° or so.

I just had my EGR Valve/Cooler, Oil cooler, CAC hose (intake side), and 2 injectors replaced two eeks ago. Alternator was replaced about a year ago. Both batteries were replaced about a month ago. Fuel filters are 3 weeks old, oil and filter were changed when the cooler was changed.

Initially I took my truck to the dealer to have them look at because it was running erratic when I'd start it up cold, and I told them about the starting issue when it's facing downhill. That's when they found the bad injectors, and oil cooler. However, since all that was fixed, the starting issue remains. Yesterday I disconnected the battery cables and cleaned the battery posts and all the cable connectors hoping it was just a weak connection (easy fix), but that didn't help.

I don't have any testing equipment to pull codes, but I'd like to gather some info. so that when I take it back to the dealer, I may be able to suggest a few areas to try looking, just to help nail this down.

Again, thank for any suggestions.

 

Make any difference how much fuel is in the tank?

 

No difference.

At first I thought maybe I had a bad batch of fuel, so I ran it down to where I had 1/4 tank left, and filled up at a different station than I usually fill up. Usually I don't let it get below 1/2 tank. When I had it in the shop for the injectors, they added cetane and lubrication additive to the fuel, but none of that helped in starting.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

Check FICM voltages........

 

deleted by user.

 

Thanks.
I'll read up and see if I can dive into this somethime this week.

I would think that the dealership would have checked this when they were trouble shooting for the bad injectors that I had replaced? Could the FICM have been overlooked during that trouble shooting process?

 

If it is a HPOP, would they be able to know for sure by pulling codes or performing tests?

My biggest concern is taking it in to the dealer, and having them tell me they can't find a problem.

 

well....that was an uphill issue. The pump was leaking and draining the HPOP reservoir. Not the issue in your case, that's why I deleted my post. If the dealer checked injectors then they almost have to check the FICM, but it's a fairly easy check with a DVOM. If you have a HPO leak then an air test is a better way to check. I'm not sure about the competency of your dealer in this case, but it is a difficult diagnosis.

 

Well, a couple of observations.
I'm sure you've read some about the Scan Gauge if you've done much reading around here at all. I'm not trying to sound like a salesman but if mine broke today I would have a new one ordered tomorrow. As bismic said in the other thread it would be good to know what the ICP is reading, then we would know if there was high-pressure oil to fire the injectors during those first few seconds. You can climb under the hood with a meter and back probe plugs while a helper cranks it, or just sit in the seat and watch the Scan Gauge. Also, you could monitor battery volts at the same time, and FICM, and IPR. Also it reads many codes (but not all) and can clear them, and when you're not trouble shooting with it, you'll get addicted to monitoring your coolant and oil temps and trans temp or whatever.

Just thinking out loud on this part, but maybe the the high pressure oil reservoir is leaking down very slowly due to a crack or loose fastener somewhere toward the front of the engine.
And also it is pretty satisfying for it to roar to life immediately when we turn the key, but six seconds isn't a real long time to crank on a 6.0 after a overnight cold soak. My truck seems a little different every morning.

 

Happened in the 6.4 section and If I remember correctly had something to do with the HFCM. Vloney posted this problem and had us try to walk through it.

 

Can you send me a link to the scan gauge your talking about. Sounds like a useful tool.

As for the time it takes to start sometimes, it just seems like it takes way longer for it to start than it ever has in the past. It just doesn't feel right.

 

What would fail in the HFCM to cause a starting issue?

Also, when changing out the fuel filter, is it normal for the cap to feel real tight when installing a new filter? I assumed it was the o-ring dragging on the housing. Just want to make sure nothing could of been jammed up inside.

 

Here's their website: ScanGauge - Trip Computer + Digitial Gauges + ScanTools
For some reason they tout the trip computer first but the x-gauge feature is the stuff on a 6.0. AutoZone sells them (sometimes in stock) or Amazon. About $160.

 

Update:

Today after work , another hard start up, I think I may need to breakup the starting sequence using two cycles (crank>rest>crank>start). When it fired up, there was a puff of black smoke out of the exhaust. (better than white smoke I quess) IDK. I'm pretty sure it's not temperature related, only because this morning it was in the 40's, truck was facing uphill in my driveway, started up in about 1 second. After work is was in the 60's and the truck was sitting on level ground, and it about drained the battery trying to crank it up in one shot.

Anyway, when I got home I did a quick test on the FICM with my multimeter as was suggested. I followed the instructions provided in a previous post, and everything checked out solid (48-49v,) no drops or spikes at all. I ordered a ScanGauge II, but I won't have it til next week. Maybe the SGII will provide more valuable info. once I get a chance to hookerup.
In the meantime, if anyone as any other ideas, suggestions, thoughts, etc.............

Thanks.