2006 6.0L POWERSTROKE HARD TO START
#1
2006 6.0L POWERSTROKE HARD TO START
I have a 2006 F250 with a 6.0L Powerstroke. I am having a hard start issue when my truck is on flat ground or facing downhill on start ups when the truck has been sitting for 4hrs or more. If the truck is facing up hill I have no problems. I have had it at two differint Dealerships for a total of 3 times. They started by saying I had a weak battery. This did not fix the problem. They also have told me that they cant find anthing wrong and to drive it until it will not start at all. I am wondering if it is a one of the banjo check valves or maybe the check valve located at the fuel pump. Could it be a weak fuel pump?
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#2
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I had a complaint of an engine making noise while braking and going downhill. His rockers and valve train would start clattering as you brake, then you accelerate and it would clean up. He had just enough oil in the oil pan to keep it flowing while accelerating, uphill, or driving flat. Not to say thats the problem, but there is a high pressure oil reservoir in the valley of the engine that supplies the HPOP with oil. Possibly a problem there? I have never run into it on the 6.0...yet.
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I tried removing the oil filter and having someone crank the engine. The housing filled up instantly. When I took the oil filter lid the little button that sits on top of the small center spring popped out. Does anyone know the part # for the button. Still have the original problem of hard to start. One of the dealerships had changed a bad battery last year saying that could be part of the problem so I took it by AUTOZONE today to have the other battery tested and the also tested the starter and the alternator. THe battery and the starter passed their test. The alternator did not. Could this be part of my problem? So the LPO system pumped oil fine up to the filter so it seems to be working. From what I have read it seems that when the HPO system is having problems, then usually the problem is cranking the engine while it is hot. My problem is on cold starts of a 4 hr rest or more. More so when facing down hill. Please help.
#13
1. Very bad idea to change out one and not a pair of batteries at once.
2. Batteries that "test" good are often bad.
3. Alternator...
Follow this link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-problems.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...lternator.html
Before you start playing with new alternators, rule out wiring / connectors.
Then, size the new alternator properly BOTH in amp output (hot) and duty cycle.
It is a foregone conclusion that any car grade alternator of 110A or less cold rating will be a sick joke on you.
The joke can cost you new batteries, new FICM, and then some.
2. Batteries that "test" good are often bad.
3. Alternator...
Follow this link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-problems.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...lternator.html
Before you start playing with new alternators, rule out wiring / connectors.
Then, size the new alternator properly BOTH in amp output (hot) and duty cycle.
It is a foregone conclusion that any car grade alternator of 110A or less cold rating will be a sick joke on you.
The joke can cost you new batteries, new FICM, and then some.
#14
it sounds like a high pressure oil pump problem to me, could be an internal leak in the hpo system. do you know of any codes the truck has? the alternator could cause that problem but then would the hard start be occurring on a hill or level ground? it sounds like the tech at the dealer didnt want to get into it and just put a battery in it?
#15
Not sure about the "button" part #.
If you are convinced that the alternator, batteries, FICM voltage are all good, then the next step would be to check ICP voltages to see what the high pressure oil pressure is doing (see the Tech Folder for the "No Start" thread). You can use probes that poke a hole through the ICP wiring insulation instead of "trimming back" the wiring insulation if you wish.
Do you have any loss of coolant?
If you are convinced that the alternator, batteries, FICM voltage are all good, then the next step would be to check ICP voltages to see what the high pressure oil pressure is doing (see the Tech Folder for the "No Start" thread). You can use probes that poke a hole through the ICP wiring insulation instead of "trimming back" the wiring insulation if you wish.
Do you have any loss of coolant?