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not too knowledgeable about all these chips and programmers for diesel trucks, I know exactly what i would get for my f150 but not sure about the f250. I was kinda leaning towards a DP tuner but i also heard about the edge juice. Also looking at superchip and bullydog. i just dont know what to get, Its for a 2002 F250 4x4 that pulls a pretty heavy (9000lbs) camper some, would be nice to get something with like a tow, econ, and performance tune. What would yall recommend??
I would forget about a chip/programmer for right now and concentrate on the things you need before adding more power. Get a good set of gauges, a 4" turbo back exhaust and a good intake. All this plus the DP-TUNER can be had from Clay at RiffRaff.
You need to know what is going on with the engine once you add power.
its got a 3.5" straight pipe right now, I thought gauges would be installed once we get the extra power. and still pondering the cai since some stock intakes pull colder air then aftermarket ones
its got a 3.5" straight pipe right now, I thought gauges would be installed once we get the extra power. and still pondering the cai since some stock intakes pull colder air then aftermarket ones
so if im going to get gauges, I was looking at Riffraffs site and I would probably get the triple A-pillar mounts. and looking at isspro gauges, I know I need pyro, and boost but what else?, fuel pressure. already got a trans temp gauge.
for pyro - get one up to 1600 or 2000? idk the valve melting point
for boost - do i need one up to 60psi? idk what the factory turbo puts out
so if im going to get gauges, I was looking at Riffraffs site and I would probably get the triple A-pillar mounts. and looking at isspro gauges, I know I need pyro, and boost but what else?, fuel pressure. already got a trans temp gauge.
for pyro - get one up to 1600 or 2000? idk the valve melting point
for boost - do i need one up to 60psi? idk what the factory turbo puts out
Pyro: use 1600. Danger zone is sustained use above 1300, but I am uncomfortable over 1250. A 20 second blast to 1350 won't hurt anything.
Boost: 30 psi is fine. Stock will push around 15, but with tunes (and I recommend DP) it'll commonly hit 27.
Your dash trans temp gauge is not an accurate gauge, more of an idiot light, and it will not show hot until too late. Been there, done that. So you'll want a real gauge for towing that 9k camper if the dash gauge is all you have.
Fuel pressure is a great thing to know to help troubleshoot problems. But the boost is more fun to watch.
I have Isspro EV1 and love the visibility. But I always recommend the EV2 since they have no amp boxes to complicate installation.
The Ford AIS intake is excellent, but I balked at the price and, like sooo many before me, went with the 6637.
ok ^^ thanks for that, So now Im at: quad pillar mount, gauge DP switcher, boost, pyro, and trans temp. then Ill probably go with the 6637 intake. Get the DP F5 chip with: no start, stock, 60hp tow, 80hp econo, 100hp performance
ok ^^ thanks for that, So now Im at: quad pillar mount, gauge DP switcher, boost, pyro, and trans temp. then Ill probably go with the 6637 intake. Get the DP F5 chip with: no start, stock, 60hp tow, 80hp econo, 100hp performance
Sounds like a good plan. I would think about the 1200 rpm high idle.
I run PHP tunes with stock intake and exhaust. Works well for me. The hottest tune I have is 80 performance and the EGTs never get above 1250 degrees. If you choose more aggressive tunes then changing your exhaust and intake would be a nice upgrade.
I do have gauges though. Fuel pressure is quite important to have IMO...
Here is a lengthy report of my experience with my particular PHP tunes so far...
Hopefully you will find some of this info useful. For reference, I am running stock injectors, stock hpop, stock intake and exhaust. Only major performance mod is a Transgo Tugger overhauled transmission with upgraded TC.
(copied from my post on the PHP forum in response to a "which tunes should I get? query...)
I am not sure if you have ordered your chip yet but here is another vote for having the stock tune as one of your choices. Stock will be good for going through emissions if you have to do that where you live. Also good for diagnostics, inclement weather and stop and go driving (such as on the freeway).
I've had my Phoenix chip in for a few days and here is what I have learned so far. (stock--65 DD--80 performance--high idle--40 Tow--25 Tow)
Previously have been running a Bully Dog Power Pup in 50 hp (tow tune) for the last 5 years or so....
65 daily driver
0-60 time is about the same as the BD tune but power management is much improved. Biggest change is how the transmission shifts. It now feels like I have a 5 speed because the TC locks between 3rd and 4th gears. The 'shifts' are equally spaced apart as well. Feels like I am driving a TorqueShift now. I only have two small issues with this setting. The TC lock is fairly hard, much more firm than the actual upshifts between gears. This is most likely a result of the aftermarket TC that is installed and not really a calibration issue with the tune. Second issue is the shifts are a bit too firm at very very slow speeds, such as stop and go freeway traffic. This is when it's nice to have the stock tune available so I can easily flip to stock when stuck in stop and go driving and the shifting is nice and soft.
Overall, the 65 DD is quite refined for the amount of power it puts out. SOI seems less aggressive compared to the Bully Dog tune (which I like).
80 Performance gets with the program quite well. EGTs are managed effectively and seem to peak around the 1250 mark...which is perfect. Nothing in this tune seems to be pushing any sort of boundaries that I can tell. I don't remember what peak boost was but I suspect it was in the 20-22 psi range so there was still some room to work. If I was to change any of my tunes, I would delete 80 P in favor of 100 P. Just my $.02 on this one...
1200 High Idle. Works as advertised. However, I was expecting the PCM to revert to stock tune as soon as the brake pedal was depressed or the parking brake released (like the AIC works). Initially I was a bit concerned but during a test I can easily control the truck with the service brakes even in high idle mode. So now, if I have a TPS or IVS failure, I can select high idle and get myself off the road to a safe spot to work. So, this tune is perfect. Nothing to change here.
I have not towed yet. Will have to wait for those two.
It's beginning to storm here just as I am about to head home. Stock setting will be what I choose. It's hard enough to keep the tires from spinning in dry conditions so once it starts to rain things get even more touchy.
Hope this info helps.
Last edited by Shake-N-Bake; Oct 31, 2011 at 11:55 AM.
Reason: too hard to read underline text
I used to run a 6637 (still have it in the garage) but couldn't handle the drone it caused when towing 55-60. Found a deal on an ais from a fellow fte'er. Quieter, but 6637 gave slightly lower egts (i think). My truck tows almost all the time so I stuck with ais ymmv
Just to help you spend your money; a decel tune is great when towing. It uses the OEM exhaust back pressure valve as a poor mans' exhaust brake, which will save your brakes down a long steep hill. Two thumbs up.
x3 on the stock tune. I used it to pass smog here in the Peoples Republic of Kalifornia, plus it is quiet vs my other tunes. Don't want to wake the neighbors when I go to work early.