Boost Gaige quit working ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Gilbert Az.
Not really any water in the system, but those nylon hoses can get kinked pretty easily. It is possible that it may have just come off! either way a quick inspection will certainly solve your problem, as for the getting to 30* part... It's 5:40 AM. I'm sitting on the patio with the dogs, smoking my meerscham, & enjoying a cold beverage in my gym shorts, without a shirt! It's in the 70's right now! Come on over pools nice!
Jim & fat warm Monty
Jim & fat warm Monty
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 148
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Ok.sorry took so long to reply on midnight shift.but you guys were right line came of the t fitting. Jim and Monty thanks for the invite to Arizona. A little to far for me right now.lol. Anyhow I have another problem my truck has started to leak fluid the past few weeks, I thought it was oil but now it's diesel.the "puddle" grew substantially over night last night when I parked it at home.it's leaking out to the back of the motor and right below the o drain plug I really don't have time to dig deep working my shifts right now so I may end up having to take it in
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
2-notorious places bud...rebuild the fuel bowl, and inspect the p/s hard fuel line, that runs to back of head. It goes thru a clamp, which over time, rubs a hole into it.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,037
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From: Florida
Leaks in the valley run out a drain hole in the back of the valley and run down the back of the engine which sometimes make it look like leaks are coming from the back of the engine when in fact it is something in the valley leaking, as suggested above.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Gilbert Az.
X2 on timmyboys fuel line thought look right below the turbo just to the left of centerline of the engine you will see a steel line a little thinner than a pencil at the point where it goe through the clamp that attaches to that stud is were to look for that rub through, if that's it dealer will have the tube (yeah it's that common) around 50$
Jim & fat Monty
Jim & fat Monty
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,047
Likes: 10
From: Snohomish, WA
First thing you need to do is clean the valley up really good and get it dry. I use simple green and then lightly spray brake cleaner after all the water is gone. The brake clean will make it nice and dry. You can look for leaks then, but I would suggest you apply talcum powder to the bowl area and the lines at the bowl. They are pretty hard to tell if they are leaking and you may not be getting leaks right away.
The place that was suggested to look is just forward of the turbo pedistal on the passenger side. You will see the line and the clamp mentioned. You may have a small hole in that line from the clamp chaffing. Keep on it, you will find it. Especially if you have fuel quantities like you mention.
Here is a picture of the line and clamp.
and after fixing the gap, with a thick electrical tape.
The place that was suggested to look is just forward of the turbo pedistal on the passenger side. You will see the line and the clamp mentioned. You may have a small hole in that line from the clamp chaffing. Keep on it, you will find it. Especially if you have fuel quantities like you mention.
Here is a picture of the line and clamp.
and after fixing the gap, with a thick electrical tape.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,047
Likes: 10
From: Snohomish, WA
If the leak is in the fuel system, you should find it by only turning the key on and off.
The powder is nothing more than baby powder.
Depending on the amount of cleaning you should not need to wrap anything up. Just don't spray connectors directly with hard streams of water if you can help it.
The powder is nothing more than baby powder.
Depending on the amount of cleaning you should not need to wrap anything up. Just don't spray connectors directly with hard streams of water if you can help it.