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Yet another issue with my beloved truck. I had posted a while back about some hard starts lately when the truck has been sitting for a day or so. Now all the sudden it will puff out white smoke on startup and then on acceleration for 15 seconds or so. Once it is warmed up, it runs like a champ. Last night was the worst start yet. Took a long time to crank, a lot of white smoke and some stumbling for 15-20 seconds of drive time. All the sudden it snapped out of it and ran great.
I have been doing a lot of reading on here and it seems like a lot of time this is a battery/FICM issue. Is this correct? If so, is there a way I can get an indication if my FICM is failing from my scangauge? What numbers should I be looking for?
If I have read the info correctly, sometimes white smoke will mean head gaskets, however I don't have any puking from the degass bottle or any of the other signs and like I said, once the truck is warmed up, it has no problems. I just had the oil cooler changed and an EGR delete installed. Would either of these things have anything to do with these issues? By the way, I have no codes and no CEL. Thanks again for the help. I don't know what I would do without this forum.
Sounds like you're barking up the right tree to me... Here is the FICM testing procedure. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html Make sure to test it KOEO, while cranking, low idle, and high idle (2500 RPMs).
Also, get you batteries load tested individually as well as getting your alternator tested for adequate output.
On your ScanGauge - you need the FICM Main Power PID setup. It should hang out at or near 48 volts at all times. If you drop below 45,the FICM needs to be repaired.
Update: I took my batteries to get tested. One tested fine, the other was bad. Luckily it was one week before the 3 year replacement ran out, so it was replaced under warranty. I went ahead and replaced the other battery as well. Both have 850 CCA and are brand new now. Installed them in the truck and turned the key on, but not the ignition. Scangauge II read 25.5V for the FICM Main Power. I let the glow plug light turn off and eventually started the engine. It fired up more easily than it had before the new batteries, but still had a lot of white smoke. FMP still read 26 or 27. I took it for a drive after letting it warm up in the driveway for probably 10 min. No more smoke while driving, but the FMP slowly crept up to 30 or 35. After about 10 more minutes of driving, cruising at 55 mph, the volts eventually reached 48. Then at a stop sign they dropped into the high 30's again.
Does this still sound like a bad FICM? Seems like it should not be fluctuating like it is, but maybe I am wrong.
If it is a bad FICM, who do you recommend to repair it? Should I get the 58V upgrade or does it not really matter?
Update: I took my batteries to get tested. One tested fine, the other was bad. Luckily it was one week before the 3 year replacement ran out, so it was replaced under warranty. I went ahead and replaced the other battery as well. Both have 850 CCA and are brand new now. Installed them in the truck and turned the key on, but not the ignition. Scangauge II read 25.5V for the FICM Main Power. I let the glow plug light turn off and eventually started the engine. It fired up more easily than it had before the new batteries, but still had a lot of white smoke. FMP still read 26 or 27. I took it for a drive after letting it warm up in the driveway for probably 10 min. No more smoke while driving, but the FMP slowly crept up to 30 or 35. After about 10 more minutes of driving, cruising at 55 mph, the volts eventually reached 48. Then at a stop sign they dropped into the high 30's again.
Does this still sound like a bad FICM? Seems like it should not be fluctuating like it is, but maybe I am wrong.
If it is a bad FICM, who do you recommend to repair it? Should I get the 58V upgrade or does it not really matter?
Having the same problems want to hook up my Scangauge ll to it and see what it reads what settings did you have your Scangauge at to get your FICM readings? This sounds alot easier then pulling my coolant resivour off to test the FICM directly with a voltage meter. Will the FICM power give me the same Voltage reading?
Thanks, When I figure out what it is I will post my findings here but to me sounds like the FICM need repairing.
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced. Check when cold
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
Here is what I received from the Scangaugell all with a cold engine, I'm in Canada temperature is 5 C or 40F but has been rought cold statrting when it was warmer aswell.
All settings as below
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064010000000
NAM: FLP
Engine cold Key on not running 10.5 - 11
Running Hi or lo Idle started at 13 and up to 14
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48)
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064010000000
NAM: FMP
Engine cold Key on not running started at 46 climbed to 49
Running Hi or lo Idle 48 - 49
Sounds like it's not the FICM, Thinking I will have to get the batteries tested next.
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