I started working on the truck this afternoon after work. I figured I would run out of daylight pretty quick so I decided to start on the drivers side. I managed to get the valve cover off pretty easy and pulled the first dummy plug, jackpot! The lower oring was blown out. They were the earlier plugs because they didn't have back-up orings. I pulled the standpipe upper pipe and the orings were ok, but they were still the old style. I wanted to pull the lower standpipes so I removed the oil rail, easy. Pulled the lower standpipe, seemed ok. I forget my 3/8 torque wrench, so I just put the oil rail back on and tightened the bolts hand tight. I'll torque the bolts later and install the new standpipe and dummy plug. I guess there isn't anything wrong with installing the standpipe in one piece. I'll finish up the driver side and hit the passenger side. Will report back!
Thanks!

 

I'm sorry to say, but I don't have good news.....I managed to get some time yesterday and finished up the drivers side, and started on the passenger side. This morning I got the PS done. The dummy plug and standpipe looked ok, but I replaced them anyway. The standpipe came out in one piece, which was good so I didn't have to pull the rail. I reassembled the truck and fired it up. It started after the second attempt and ran pretty good. Here is where is gets bad. I shut it off, and restarted the engine, it cranked a bit longer than I thought it should, but I thought it might have air yet in the rails because I only had it running a short time. I hit the high idle switch and left it fully warm up. I shut it down and left it sit a few. I went to restart it and it cranked a long time, probably 10 seconds or so, but it did start. It appears my leak is a lot worse now. I tried starting it again, same result. I'm thinking on the driver side rail, the injector orings must be leaking. The rail came off really easy, and it went back on with very little resistance. I'm thinking thats where the leak is. I highly doubt the orings got torn on assembly on the dummys and standpipes....grrrr.....

 

you can run it with the valve covers off then you can see if it leaks at the injectors

 

The injector o-ring kits are available from Clay@RiffRaff diesel that have the spool valve d-ring in them here: http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/me..._Code=F03-07-O

 

Great news! I talked to a buddy of mine that used to work at my location today. He has a `97 7.3, and when he did injectors he had the same trouble as me. He had to drive his truck for a few days before all the air was worked out. I started up the truck after work and left it on high idle for probably 45 minutes while I ate and took out the trash. I shut it down, left it sit a bit and restarted it. It started instantly! I went for a short drive and it seemed to run very well. Let it sit several minutes and it started up again very quickly. I'm very pleased! Also, my IPR duty cycle at idle, oil temp 188 was 22%, seems leak free to me. Tomorrow morning cold start will be the true test.

 

You got it Fixed

IPR 22% at hot idel is Good as it gets your leak free

must just had some air in there

Iv noticed mine has passed an air bubble the next day 20 miles later a few WOT runs should help purge the air from the HPO rails

 

Glad to hear you got your truck going again! Something you mentioned earlier that I wanted to clear up - ficmrepair.com absolutely does do re-programming. We can do any revision of software that Ford ever produced or, for a far better experience, can tune with any PHP tune. In fact, we just started offering PHP's ECM tuning... (need to get the website updated to reflect that last bit).

We stopped doing voltage mods to the modules a few years back when it became clear that reliability was hit pretty hard and that, more specifically, when the modules failed, they did so catastrophically - like leave you on the side of the road with a burning smell catastrophically - rather than fail gracefully.