FICM Question
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FICM Question
I will start with some brief history. I have an 04 250 with about 88k on the clock. In December, I completed EGR delete, new oil cooler, added coolant filter, added EGT, Trans temp and boost gauges. Now to my recent issue. I live in Michigan and the temps have been in the 20-30* range. I noticed about 2 monts ago that cold starts were getting harder. Fast forward to present day, cold starts require me attempting to start about 5-10 times before the truck will stay running. Basically, I will let the glow plugs heat up for about a minute then crank. The truck will fire and immediately die. This happens a few times until it finally stays running. Truck will run rough for about 10-15 secs and then run great all day. When shut off, it will fire right back up until you let it set overnight. However, if left plugged in overnight, It will fire immediately without any hard start whatsoever. Last night I tested my 4 screw FICM. With Key on I get a reading of 47.7 volts, this is after the initial buzz has completed. The Key on reading taken immediately upon cycling the key on is only about 29 volts, this is done during the initial buzz. However, during cranking, I get 48 volts. Does this sound like the cause of my cold start issue? Should this issue throw a code? Sorry about the rant, just wanted to get all the info out there.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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here is some help !!!!
If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be injectors, the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is probably in the injectors or glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM. It is usually accompanied w/ multiple injector codes and a p0611 code.
The 6.0 injector has two solenoids on it; one turns the injector on (open) and the other turns it off (close). A few years ago, Ford came out with a new program referred to as inductive heating for the FICM, intended to combat issues with missing and rough-running during cold startup due to sticking spool valves in the injectors. This program works by running “extra” current through the close coil to generate heat and warm up the spool. On paper it was an excellent idea, and I advised a lot of potential injector customers to have their FICM’s reflashed rather than buy a set of injectors.
Based on my testing, it appears that the early models of FICM’s only used the inductive heating when the EOT was less than 48*F or so.
The “first” updated heating strategy turned it on any time the EOT was less than 184*F:
meaning every time you started the truck (if it had been shut off for more than 10 minutes) that the inductive heat was used!
Ford’s newest update to the heating strategy has it coming on below 148*F; better, but that’s still a lot of current draw.
Unfortunately, there have been some very serious consequences.
Although the FICM on the 6.0 is way more “intelligent” than the IDM on a 7.3, its basic job is to convert 12VDC to 48VDC and deliver this to the injectors at the proper time. Under normal operating conditions, the FICM typically draws 6-7 amps at 12V into the FICM power supply, which is well within its design limits.
However, with the inductive heating active this current draw increases to 24-32 amps—it pegs the 30 amp meter on my test bench! Although the FICM power supply is capable of sustaining this load for short periods of time (1-2 minutes) it eventually gets very hot.
If this was all that happened, things wouldn’t be too bad, but there are several components on the printed circuit board that were not properly soldered during the manufacturing process, and as the PCB heats up and expands, the solder under these components cracks and they lose their electrical connection.
The FICM’s 48 volt power supply is actually four separate or independent units; if one of the four goes down, the other three can supply enough current to run the truck, even with the inductive heating active. If two of the four go out, the truck will start and run normally as long as it is warm out. i.e. as long as the inductive heating does not turn on.
If three of the four go out, the truck will probably not start or run unless it is at full operating temperature, and even then it may not start.
If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts.
If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire.
While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value.
For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.
How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)
1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.
PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19314
4a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.
PROCEDURE for 7 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19315
4b. Repeat step 4 above (multi meter step) but put the positive lead on the left-most screw in the row of 4 screws.
Do not let the probe short against the case!
5b. Same as 5a above
6b. Same as 6a above
If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition.
If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.
Swamp’s states that they able to repair most FICM’s with low voltage problems, but some units may be either fried beyond repair, or the time it would take to repair them would be more than a good used FICM costs. If you send your unit in to them for repair, the price is $350.00. There is no charge if it cannot be fixed
They can also step the voltage up from 48 to 58 volts for an additional $50.00. All units have a 1-year warranty. Due to a lack of FICM cores, you will have to send your unit in for repair.
__________________
Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20;DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod;HFCM Plug;Zoodad/Air Fury grill;Accufab Elbow;RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax (Transfer Case);Fumoto Valve;Harpooned fuel tank;Line-X;CPOhighway Products tool box;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;Stanadyne Performance & B2 (lubricity);PIE adapter;PIAA 24" ww blades;updated EGR valve;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Pressure;BBmod;DashDaq
If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be injectors, the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is probably in the injectors or glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM. It is usually accompanied w/ multiple injector codes and a p0611 code.
The 6.0 injector has two solenoids on it; one turns the injector on (open) and the other turns it off (close). A few years ago, Ford came out with a new program referred to as inductive heating for the FICM, intended to combat issues with missing and rough-running during cold startup due to sticking spool valves in the injectors. This program works by running “extra” current through the close coil to generate heat and warm up the spool. On paper it was an excellent idea, and I advised a lot of potential injector customers to have their FICM’s reflashed rather than buy a set of injectors.
Based on my testing, it appears that the early models of FICM’s only used the inductive heating when the EOT was less than 48*F or so.
The “first” updated heating strategy turned it on any time the EOT was less than 184*F:
meaning every time you started the truck (if it had been shut off for more than 10 minutes) that the inductive heat was used!
Ford’s newest update to the heating strategy has it coming on below 148*F; better, but that’s still a lot of current draw.
Unfortunately, there have been some very serious consequences.
Although the FICM on the 6.0 is way more “intelligent” than the IDM on a 7.3, its basic job is to convert 12VDC to 48VDC and deliver this to the injectors at the proper time. Under normal operating conditions, the FICM typically draws 6-7 amps at 12V into the FICM power supply, which is well within its design limits.
However, with the inductive heating active this current draw increases to 24-32 amps—it pegs the 30 amp meter on my test bench! Although the FICM power supply is capable of sustaining this load for short periods of time (1-2 minutes) it eventually gets very hot.
If this was all that happened, things wouldn’t be too bad, but there are several components on the printed circuit board that were not properly soldered during the manufacturing process, and as the PCB heats up and expands, the solder under these components cracks and they lose their electrical connection.
The FICM’s 48 volt power supply is actually four separate or independent units; if one of the four goes down, the other three can supply enough current to run the truck, even with the inductive heating active. If two of the four go out, the truck will start and run normally as long as it is warm out. i.e. as long as the inductive heating does not turn on.
If three of the four go out, the truck will probably not start or run unless it is at full operating temperature, and even then it may not start.
If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts.
If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire.
While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value.
For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.
How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)
1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.
PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19314
4a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.
PROCEDURE for 7 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19315
4b. Repeat step 4 above (multi meter step) but put the positive lead on the left-most screw in the row of 4 screws.
Do not let the probe short against the case!
5b. Same as 5a above
6b. Same as 6a above
If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition.
If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.
Swamp’s states that they able to repair most FICM’s with low voltage problems, but some units may be either fried beyond repair, or the time it would take to repair them would be more than a good used FICM costs. If you send your unit in to them for repair, the price is $350.00. There is no charge if it cannot be fixed
They can also step the voltage up from 48 to 58 volts for an additional $50.00. All units have a 1-year warranty. Due to a lack of FICM cores, you will have to send your unit in for repair.
__________________
Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20;DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod;HFCM Plug;Zoodad/Air Fury grill;Accufab Elbow;RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax (Transfer Case);Fumoto Valve;Harpooned fuel tank;Line-X;CPOhighway Products tool box;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;Stanadyne Performance & B2 (lubricity);PIE adapter;PIAA 24" ww blades;updated EGR valve;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Pressure;BBmod;DashDaq
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 112
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From: RI
Here's another thought,
The oil pressure regulator may have a leak. They had an issue with them if I remember correctly. It will cause a long crank to start due to low oil pressure especially when not plugged in, cold thick oil doesn't flow well. When it's been plugged in the oil is warm and flows easily. Has the truck been in for a front seal leak? Usually its the regulator leaking not the front seal. John
The oil pressure regulator may have a leak. They had an issue with them if I remember correctly. It will cause a long crank to start due to low oil pressure especially when not plugged in, cold thick oil doesn't flow well. When it's been plugged in the oil is warm and flows easily. Has the truck been in for a front seal leak? Usually its the regulator leaking not the front seal. John
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Well I pulled the FICM out of the truck for a quick visual of the solder joints. Everything looks good to the naked eye. I put it back in and fired the truck up from colds start (actually started good but it was over 50* out that day) and immediately read the FICM voltage at idle. The voltage at idle is only about 30V. I am pretty sure I have an issue. Does everyone agree the FICM is most likely toasty???? I am ready to have a great running truck again. I hope nothing is in line the break next!!!!
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