A few months back I posted about some long cold crank times I was getting and some intermittent running issues. Well, the cold start issue seems to be getting worse. I don't drive the truck everyday, but 2 weeks ago I left in the morning for a 250 mile round trip to pick up an old Honda CB750 and it cranked for what seems like forever and finally started, and I thought to myself this is going to be a great trip and left. Long story short it seemed to run fine, and started ok when hot. I went to move the truck again last week, and again long cold crank, finally started in a cloud of dark black smoke. I figured I should check FICM voltage. I left it sit til today, I connected my volt meter and checked the voltage when the injectors buzz, it went down to about 30 volts and the injectors stopped, and voltage went back to 48, I did this a few times before starting it, same results. I started the truck, and this time it started pretty quick (suprised), and once running the voltage stayed around 45 volts, and would drop a bit to 44 or 43 when you increased engine speed to about 2K, voltage would not get back up to 48 volts. So is the FICM failing? I thought the voltage should stay at or around 48 even when the injectors are buzzing?
Thanks! (sorry for the long story!!!!)

 

Yep needs a FICM repair or new power supply. The voltage should hold steady at 48V all the time. I will give alittle and say 47V ok but not 30V. Get the FICM repaired or replaced

 

I agree the ficm is probably failing, but I would definately make sure the glow plugs are working before I went to far.

 

FICM is toasted... FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair Good guy, great service...

I wouldn't drive it anymore. Could damage your $$$ injectors.

You can also look in the Tech Folder for a DIY, but be forewarned, if you mess up the board, most shops won't take it as a core.

 

Got the FICM out, pretty simple. Now I'm not sure who to send it too. I'm torn between swamps, and ficm repair . com. FR.com is cheaper, but I think you might get more from swamps, I'm not sure. From what I understand, swamps will reflash the FICM with the latest Ford flash, FR.com doesn't do anything with reprograming. What about the 58V "upgrade"? I can't see how a 10 volt increase will do any harm, or good?
Thanks!

 

Dont do the 58 volt mod

the injectors are designed for 48 volts

58 volt mod makes the FICM run Hotter its already in a hot spot doesnt need any more heat

With the 58 volt mod folks have reported when the Ficm goes it usually Dies without warning

I wouldnt do it but to each his own

Send it out to www.ficmrepair.com
Havent heard any complaints
Great customer service
Warrenties his work

 

I just got one from FICMREPAIR.COM has worked great good service and Ed stefen great guy.

 

If you have questions about your FICM repair then shoot Ed an email. He'll explain the benefits and downfalls of what you're contemplating in a very persuasive way. Getting the latest greatest Ford flash may or may not be the latest greatest thing to do for your truck. Powerhungry performance can reflash your FICM with some enhancements that make driveability and (usually) MPG's better.

 

Thanks guys, you helped me make up my mind.

 

What more can I say? You guys rock.

Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com

 

It turns out the rebuilt FICM did little to help my cold starting issue. It still cranks for about 5 to 6 seconds and fires off like nothing. No rough running, just like instant running. It gets better once its hot, which makes me rule out any high pressure oil leaks. I don't have any misfires or heavy smoke, which rules out glow plugs. One cold start I tried something different, I went right to off to start, didn't let it buzz or glow, it cranked for a second or two, and I could hear the injectors fire, and it started, rough, but faster than if I let it glow/buzz. I guess I was trying to rule out the glow plugs. I'm missing my owners manual and I'm not sure which fuse/relay to pull to disable the glow plugs.

Anyway, besides the starting issue, the truck seems to run great, no other problems or codes. I hate to throw parts at it, but I'm wondering if the rail pressure sensor is going bad? Anyone have an idea?
Thanks!

 

Injectors begin to fire at 500 PSI rail pressure, correct? What is the thread size for the pressure sensor? NPT?
Thanks!

 

Yes thats what I have read injectors fire at 500 ICP


Do you have any gauges???

Dont rule out a HPO leak just yet it maybe Bleeding off what happens if you let it sit a couple hours and then start

Does it start better if you cycle the glow plugs a couple times B4 you start it up

 

I've got a livewire, but its pretty much worthless..... Seems like the scangauge is the best bang for the buck. I'd like to plum a mechanical guage and check the high pressure oil system.

 

A scangauge can check the HPO it gets both ICP & IPR%

you only need a mechanical gauge if you suspect a bad ICP sensor

SG does do alot money well spent there