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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #16  
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captradiator
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From: Augusta, Georgia
A.B,

I wrongly assumed that you had A.C., but I can see that you have a non-A.C. truck. The cable pictured is indeed the blend door cable, and you say that it goes stop-to-stop okay.

What is the temperature reading on your gauge? Normal (Around 200 degrees) should read about one-third to halfway. A 195-degree t-stat begins to open at 195, and fully opens around 210-degrees. As someone else mentioned, try to get a non-contact heat gun and see what the temp is on both heater necks and at the t-stat housing.

Lastly, to do a quick water pump test, remove the hose at the heater that comes from the intake manifold. Point it to a five-gallon bucket and have someone start the truck. You should get immediate flow. HTH
 
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #17  
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The gauge sits right around where you say, about 1/3 to 1/2. It's the same range it's been for the last 6 or 7 years, so nothing seems out of the ordinary or 'running cool' about it.

I'm going to see if I can get an IR thermometer. It seems like it'd be something useful for me to have anyway.

Last night, I felt the heater core in/out hoses and they were quite hot to the touch. Then, I felt the metal inlet/outlets on the heater core itself and they both stung equally!

I'm wondering if there's an air leak in the venting system somewhere letting cold air in from outside. I can't imagine where, but that's all I can think of at the moment.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #18  
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captradiator
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A.B,

If both hoses are the same temp, you may indeed have a leaking baffle in the heater core. The hose from the intake should be a bit hotter than the return hose to the water pump.
 
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