Hello fellow fordsters!

I installed a new steering gear box last month. I didn't install new ps lines until a few weeks ago. Before I installed the new lines I noticed my return line was leaking from the gear box. I went to napa to get a return line and the dude told me that I could just use a break line and to cut it, screw the end into the gear box and snug the rubber hose onto the cut off line. Well I did that and it's still leaking. Looks like it's coming from the threads.

Any one else had this problem? What could I do to fix it?

Thanks


77 f150 LB 2wd 300 inline 6

 

The correct fitting for the return at the steering gear is 3/8" inverted flare. If this is what you used and it is still leaking more than likely the seat in the gear box is damaged or worn.
Remove the line and look into the hole. You'll see the seat. It shouldn't have any nicks, gouges or wear.
These can be replaced.
If you do need one, the part number is 374309-S
Harbin Motor Co, Scottsboro, AL has 1 (256) 574-1819
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 40 (800) 543-4959
Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA has 1 (610) 929-3683
Midway Ford, Kansas City, MO has 3 (816) 455-3000
Bowman Sales and Service, Bowman, ND has 3 (701) 523-3257

An outside possibility is the gearbox is cracked in the threaded area where the line screws in.

 

thanks mike0o0o0o

I will take off the hose and take a look. How in da heck can I take replace the seat? Isn't that part of the gear box?

 

The guy at napa just gave me a reg 4inch steel break line with 3/8 threads on both ends. I cut one side to slide my rubber hose around. I bet that all break lines are NOT inverted flares? thus I have leaking!!

 

In all probability the line is correct, all the standard hard brake lines are inverted flare so you should be good.
The seat is replaceable, they are made from brass and are pressed into the housing.
The way I've replaced them in the past is take a tap (I don't remember the size though) and tap the hole in the seat. Then you can screw in a bolt and pry the seat out.
A little trick, pack the flutes of the tap with grease. This will help keep the metal flakes from getting into the steering system.

 

I just took off the return line. The seat looks good to me after I had to drain all the fuild out so I could see.. lol .mike, sorry to keep bugging you, but you said they are pressed in. So if I do tap the old one out how would I press the new one back in with?

I wonder if i could put thread sealer on my flare threads. think that should seal it?

 

On the few that I've done, it wasn't a real tight press fit. I took a wooden dowel and tapped it in then put the line on and tightened it down to seat it.
As far as thread sealer goes, I doubt that will work.
On an inverted flare the threads have nothing to do with the seal, it is strictly the fit between the flare of the fitting and the seat.
Usually what happens, if you use sealer on the threads it will stop leaking there but will start leaking between the tube and the nut.

 

If it's the flare seal leaking just try lapping it a few times. Tighten it, loosen it, tighten it, loosen it several times. IT will seat itself. The flare and the seat will conform to each other. That's the normal procedure for new lines.

 

I will give that a try tomorrow after work.. thanks. i hope that works cuz i dont wanna try to install a new seat lol

 

If this is a new unit then it should be under warranty. You said it has been leaking from the beginning; maybe that is why it was replaced by the PO of the box. Then the re-builder put in new seals and back on the market for sale. Did you buy this at Napa? See if they will honor their warranty. If you try to repair it before it will void the warranty. You already have followed their advice to replace the lines and that didn't work, take it back!

You also could contact a hydraulic hose shop and see if they carry these or something similar. Click on pic.

 

I got a bad rebuild for my 95 F150. It was sloppy and not adjustable and the seat had been over-cut to refresh it from the rebuilder. If you tighten the flare nut and can pull up and down on the metal line you have your problem. An internet check on the rebuilding company revealed that they had gone bankrupt.
The quality of the replacement from a different company was totally useable.

 

I got it from redhead steering. I am calling them tomorrow since the guyI talked to today didn't really want to say anything. He wasn't the owner i guess LOL.

Mike0o0o0o.. I did do the thread sealer and it worked. the fluid isn't coming out the threads anymore BUT now it's coming out between the flare and the line. WTF!! lol so you were right about that, also you were right about how to take out the damaged seat in the pump. The guy at redhead told me the same thing!! you know your chit!!!!

 

Thanks.

 

1eyedjack, I screwed up. Bill (NumberDummy) alerted me to the fact I gave you the wrong part number for the seat.
The number I gave you is for the pressure side (5/16") not the return side.
The correct number is 374480-S. THIS is the 3/8" seat.
Harbin Motor Co, Scottsboro, AL has 2 (256) 574-1819
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 104 (800) 543-4959
Thomassen Ford, Charles Town, WV has 1 (304) 725-7031
Magarino Ford-Mercury, Sussex, NJ has 2 (973) 702-8000
Five Star Ford, North Richland Hills, TX has 1 (817) 498-8838
Bowman Sales and Service, Bowman, ND has 9 (701) 523-3257

Thanks Bill, I owe you one.

 

The guy at Napa doesn't know what he's talking about. You can't slip a hose over a cut brake line like that; there's no way for it to seal. Unless you barb the end of the cut-off brake line (which is hard to do at home), there's nothing to prevent the hose from slipping right off, even with a clamp on it. If it's not leaking now or hasn't already slipped off, it will.

That being said, I don't understand why he wouldn't just sell you the proper return line in the first place. It's easier on you, and they likely would have made more money. Spend the $15 for the right part.

I know the rest of your questions are about the box, but that homemade return line has got to go.