I have read on this cite and others about ebpv delete. I had to remove my turbo due to missing bolts causing huge exhaust leak. I need to know if it's ok to gut the insides of the pedistal and simply tap and plug the whole where the actuator was and then replace the rear seal and snap ring. I have read that this will not harm oil supply as long as you leave the wire unpluged (the one that plugs into the pedistal, metal retaining clip). Second question. With this mod is there any changes to other items such as waste gate and heater assembly? Thanks for any help.

 

You got the plan and yes that is safe, I did it to my 97. Gut the insides out via the big snap ring retained plug on the pedistal, then tap the hole with a 3/8" pipe tap and put a plug in it. Make sure you do unhook the wire connector going to it too. Take the EBPV housing off the turbine side of the turbo and knock the welch plugs off then gut the valve out. Some say that a freeze plug will come out, have to call bull on that one. I plugged the holes with freeze plugs and they never came out. Owned that truck for another 4 years and 50k miles. Some people weld them in, not needed in my book. As for the heater I am not sure what you mean unless you mean the cab heater. Yes it does extend the warm up times in town and such, slow driving. If you are on the highway you won't notice a lot of difference. The best thing you can do for heater warm up is to block part of the radiator like the semi trucks do. IF you pull heavy, take it off. Just watch the temp gauge. As far as a waste gate goes, if your truck is old body style you don't even have one. If it is a super duty you do, they do different things all together, you will be able to see when you get there. Also, just so you know, on my 97 it had a mean bark when you shifted as the turbo spun down a bit. I did have a round downpipe, not the flat stock one. I also had an open element air filter. And the obs had no intercooler either, that makes a lot of difference in sound too.

 

jyount, thank for the reply and confirmation on the ebpv issue. On my 2000 there is a Air Intake Heater(AIH) on the spyder in front of the turbo. I have read of people removing them since they're really isn't much use for the. I'll be looking more into that issue.

 

The AIH does almost nothing for running. It does very little for heat too. Diesels do not have a throttle, this means a whole bunch of air goes through the engine at all times. A coil in the intake is not capable of heating up that much. The ebpv will make a lot more difference. Your 2000 has a wastegate too. The goal of the wastegate is to eliminate lag to a small bit. It lets the exhaust go through a smaller turbine housing, then bypass it so it doesn't become a restriction and cause more heat. The lag isn't that much of a deal with more fuel of injectors and such, but with the intercooler there is that much more air to compress on a stock truck so there is alot of lag without the wastegated housing. Long story short you need your wastegate, don't screw it up And if your up pipes are leaking much you will notice a lot of power increase once its fixed because you will see higher boost...

 

Thanks for all the good info. I hope to get her back together today and see how she runs. I have to find a 470ohm 1 watt resister for the plug. Im in California and have to get a smog check sinse I just baught it...dont want to have any codes pop up.