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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Engine sludge and the use of engine flushes Pros and cons

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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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MGarner
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Engine sludge and the use of engine flushes Pros and cons

I pulled the valve cover off my ''66 240 today and noticed quite a bit of sludge build up. I am wondering about the best way to clean or at least reduce the amount of sludge in the engine. I have heard engine flushes were a no-no due to the problems caused by sludge blocking up the oil pump screen or causing damage to seals. So is there anything else I might could do short of pulling the heads and the oil pan and cleaning them. Would just using a good quality oil help? Or an additive such as Lucas? Thanks for your input.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:41 PM
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I have been told to use SeaFoam in the engine for a week before oil change. This is from two mechanics that rebuild older cars. Anyone else have an opinion here?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 05:51 AM
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Unless you are planning on rebuilding the engine, I suggest buttoning it back up. You start using stuff to clean it out and you can create more issues. If it aint broke don't try to fix it.

It would have been better if HD oil had been used and changed regularly along the way.




John
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 04:39 PM
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I'd base it all on how much oil it uses in 1500 miles.......If it doesn't use much oil, I wouldn't worry too much
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric Kropp
I'd base it all on how much oil it uses in 1500 miles.......If it doesn't use much oil, I wouldn't worry too much
hopefully the OP is still waiting for advice 9 years later - 🤣🤣
no offense; I have made that mistake before too - everything lives forever on line
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 08:01 PM
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I have seen this used with success a few times. Pull the valve cover and pan, scrape as much out as possible. Button it all back up with fresh oil and filter. Drive 500 miles or so then add a quart of ATF and let it idle 10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Repeat the process every 500 miles until the oil stays clean.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by davelj
I have seen this used with success a few times. Pull the valve cover and pan, scrape as much out as possible. Button it all back up with fresh oil and filter. Drive 500 miles or so then add a quart of ATF and let it idle 10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Repeat the process every 500 miles until the oil stays clean.
Clean oil in a diesel engine? That would be a first. And as jowilker stated in his old post, the worst thing an "expert" can do is add a can of something that breaks loose all the crud that's been built up on non rotating parts and circulate it past engine bearings, etc.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 12:11 PM
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I wouldn't pull the heads, just the valve covers and oil pan. Clean them out good with parts cleaner along with the valve train. I wouldn't use ATF either just because that's not what it's made for. I've never used Seafoam, and they have several different products. If they have one made for use in oil it would probably be fine, but don't use the one for gas as it contains oil. It's OK for a 2 stroke but not a 4 stroke engine.
 
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