Is a 1000 lb engine stand enough for a 1950 ford flathead v8? Did a search and someone mentioned that their 2000 lb stand looked like it was going to break but that just seems crazy to me...

I cant find the weight of a flathead, so not sure that the 1000 lb stand will do it...

 

I don't think mine is more then 450 ,475 and thats with the flywheel still on ..I have never had a problem with any good quality stand

 

It depends... If you mount it to the stand at the bellhousing flange, you'll want one that is REALLY, REALLY made for at least 750 lbs, not some chinese estimate of when it folds in half and lands on your foot. Preferably with four wheels ( the "front" two being spread apart for stability).

It is a better idea to get an exhaust flange adapter, which brings the weight in much closer to the main post. But you still want a good stout stand. A fully assembled 8BA with cast iron heads, flywheel, and exhaust manifolds is near 550 - 600 lbs. And I'd still get one with four wheels. This is not a place to skimp!

 

Ross, I just bought a 1,000 pound engine stand from harbor freight a week ago and put my flathead on it. It still has carb, flywheel, exhaust manifolds, generator, fan...etc and it doesnt seem to be leaning at all. It is the 1 with the 4 wheels but not foldable. I had a 750 pound stand with a fully assembled 302 and it leaned so bad I had to cut a 2x6 to put under the harmonic balancer pulley to keep it from tipping forward. I eventually welded a piece of 2x2 box tubing from the back spine to the base to make a triangle and it fixed it immediately. The 1,000 pound stand will not need that. I think you will be fine with the 1,000 pound stand.

 

Great thanks. glad you mentioned the 1000 lb harbor freight stand... as that is the one in a box in my garage. I just didn't want to have to spend double to get their 2000... and didn't want to be nervous putting it on. thanks again all

 

These are the ones being discussed, right? The 750 lb stand is a joke, IMO. It would be very easy to tip over with the single front wheel. The 1000 lb is better, but it's the same stand except at the front wheels and what appear to be maybe heavier arms on the head. The 2,000 lb foldable is actually a very heavy duty, stable stand, with a wide spread between the legs, and see how the rear wheels are mounted? With two legs (one per wheel) it is twice as stiff.

HF has cheapened their 750-1000 design. The rear wheels on the 750 and 1000 are done like a BarBQ grille now, they used to be casters. (On the other hand, their casters are typically crappy so maybe the straight axle is a blessing?)

They will all undoubtedly "work" but the 2000 lb stand weighs 2X what the others do, and costs 2X, I can see why. If you are only going to have one stand, an extra $50 might be worth it. JMO...

 

If you are going to put a 48 and earlier flathead on a stand you really need to get an adapter that holds the engine from the exhaust flanges. One place that makes them is here: Stumpy's Fabrication Works : Photos. I have seen the cast in bell housing on earlier flatheads broken from using a normal engine stand.

 

And HF had another 2000lb-er with non-folding legs .

the only issue with the bigger ones is you can't get the darned thing into the hoist far enough to comfortably pickup/set down the engine.

I always mount the stand head to the engine first, then slide it into the stand, then lower the hoist..

the T or shallow H (shorter front bar) will work fine.

I like the 2000lb-r best for stability..but wish it folded.. like the one you referenced.
I also have 2 of the middle (H style)

Sam

 

HotRod this month has an article about engine stands.
they tested the three from harbor freight shown above.

they mounted a block the 750lber and then used a scale and a 4 post lift lowered onto the block to test the strength.. the engine plate and mount arms bent at 2200 lbs of pressure, but did not break. they expected the casters to go first, but they held too..

they did not test the higher level versions, cause there is no engine that weighs 2200lbs.

that said, they came to the same conclusion as expressed here

the smallest, 1 front caster 750lb version seemed tippy,
the 2 front caster 1000lber was ok for most everything,
and for heavy use the 2000lber.

Sam

 

Popping this back to the top, I am looking for a good quality engine stand for a flathead 226. Is there one made that will hold on the bell housing and the side motor mounts? I am concerned with the bellhousing only attach points due to the fact that the 226 is so long and so much weight up front where I feel there should also be support.

Jonathan

 

I have rebuilt both my 226's and had one of the single front leg units that I had for 20 years. It held the weight fine, (I've had a big block Chevy on it) but I found the single leg design lends itself to easily tipping as I almost toppled it twice and had to muscle back up both times (scary). So when rebuilding my second 226, I purchased a dual leg unit from Jeg's rated at 1250 lbs. It is not as heavy duty as the $200 units but it worked just fine and was much more stable. Here is a link to the one I used;
JEGS Performance Products 80041K1, JEGS Engine Stands | JEGS Performance Products

 

When I used to do a lot of small engine rebuilding I had a Blackhawk rotisserie type stand that suspended the engines from end to end or side to side. A little more spendy but very versatile.

 

This first picture shows what type of engine stand that Henry used for his flatheads way back when. Appears to be a K. R. Wilson, Buffalo NY. the second picture is similar to the Manzel Tool engine stand, also from Buffalo, NY, with the #6005 flathead bracket that I just picked up. Third picture is my Manzel stand with a more modern bracket rather than the exhaust flange mounting flathead bracket that I need. The stand and bracket are both aluminum.

Lee

 

I like to post this picture whenever the conversation gets around to flathead V8 engine stands. My dad was given this engine. A rebuild shop broke the bell housing by hanging it only from the bell housing.