88 302 flywheel installation.
Does anyone know how I can verify that the flywheel is installed correctly? I know I gotta pull the tranny again, but I need to know how to line the flywheel up correctly. The flywheel has the weight on the back and the front of the flywheel has a dot drilled in it to tell me where the weight is. Is there something on the crank that tells me which way the weight goes? I noticed on the crank there are 6 bolt holes and another hole between two bolt holes. Do I use this for determining where the weight goes?
I really need some help now, or I have to take it to shop.
Thanks
Randy
The 6 hole bolt pattern on the flywheel is perfectly symmetric and can be installed in 6 different orientations. I measured it and its perfectly symmetric.
Since the weight is on the back (engine side) of the flywheel and it is cast into the flywheel, the way you can tell where the weight is from the front (clutch side) is they drilled a small "dot" next to the hole closest to the weight. Also, the crank has a key for installation of a flexplate (automatic only) but the flywheel does not have the key on it. That is what I mean by the extra hole on the crank.
The flywheel is brand new, dealer part and is not designed to be balanced. It has a 50oz. offset weight and is the correct part from the stampings on the back to the exact size of the counter-weight.
If I can find out how to install it, I will archive a message detailing the procedure.
Randy
Roger Lane
Test Analyst
Sr. Automated Test Engineer
IBP, Inc.
The six bolts are perfectly symmetric and will go in 6 different positions. I can barely believe it myself, but it is. The 5.8L has offset bolts, but not the 5.0L that I have.
As soon as I have it all apart I will post pictures. I am not going insane, I really am not.
BTW-All the manual says is "put it back on the way you took it off" that ain't much help when you are putting on a brand new one.
Also most clutch jobs don't require removing the flywheel, so unless you have done it before, you won't notice it.
I'll be right back.
Randy
BTW-The catalog at www.northernautoparts.com on page 34 has a picture of the flywheel and you can see that the bolt holes are symmetric. The pdf copy isn't clear enough so you need the actual catalog to tell.
I found this out because I did not mark the flywhell when I removed it and it took several tries to get it lined up properly.
I could be talking out of my a$$ too (I've been known to do that on several occasions).
Does anyone have the factory service manual that can give us a hint?
Roger Lane
Test Analyst
Sr. Automated Test Engineer
IBP, Inc.
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I searched through the entire thing and it does not mention the key, it does show how to torque it though. It does not say how to install it. I will page through the entire thing again, but if it isn't in the Clutch, tranny, or engine section I am stumped.
This is one of those things that is just unbelievable when you actually do the job. It is really a hair pulling experience.
R
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I am completly stumped about your vibration problem. I hope you get it solved.
Roger Lane
Test Analyst
Sr. Automated Test Engineer
IBP, Inc.
Do you still have your old flywheel lying around anywhere? If so, look on the back of it. Around the bolt holes, look for an extra spot on the back of it, there shouold be a spot around where the extra hole was on the crank. That will tell you, with reference as to where the wight should be placed on the flywheel.
(I don't know if that makes any sense or not but I hope it does.)
Randy, Email me & I'll try to explain it better.
[link:www.geocities.com/hotrodford_88/|Hotrodford_88's Webpage]
[link:www.geocities.com/westlake_vfd/Westlake.html|Westlake VFD Website]
Paul,
Yes, I agree if the clutch really wore out, then the flywheel needs to be resurfaced. However, the manual states that it only needs resurfacing if it has imperfections in the surface or is glazed. It isn't always done.
Anyway, Here are my pics of the flywheel.
Pic 1 is of the old flywheel, note small circle at about 10 o'clock between the bolts.
http://members.tripod.com/RGAZ/Mvc-001f.jpg
pic2 is of the new flywheel I just removed from the engine. Note again that I installed it the same way the old one came off according to the circle at 10 o'clock.
http://members.tripod.com/RGAZ/Mvc-002f.jpg
Pic 3 is of the crank. Note the hole on the right side of the pic, also note the pefect symmetry of the bolts which will allow 6 possible orientations.
http://members.tripod.com/RGAZ/Mvc-006f.jpg
Gimmie some feedback guys, the truck is apart.
Randy
can put the flywheel on in multiple positions I would
get another flywheel. I put my vote with the other guys.
Every 302 I've ever messed with, the flywheel only goes on
in one position.
idea. I went out and checked a 1986 fuel injected 302
I have, and discovered the weight on the flexplate
lines up with the keyway on the front of the motor
that holds the damper on. I also have a 75-76 302 out
of a Bronco with the different balance weight and it lines
up with the keyway on front of the motor too. Of course
you probably don't want to pull the front of your motor
apart so I looked at the relationship of the damper keyway
to the timing marks. Both dampers(1986= E4TE-A3A 75-76=
D20E-A1A SDK9 ) have extended scales marked on them and
both keyways line up with 30degrees BTDC. Theoretically
if you pointed the 30 BTDC mark at 12 o clock the weight
on the flywheel would be at 12 o clock also. Maybe some of
the other guys on this site can look at their stuff and
maybe we can develop a pattern where we can say for sure
how to line that weight up on your flywheel.
I am currently doing a 351 swap into an '84 Stang. The actual weight on the 302(post '81) is MUCH larger than the weight of the 351. This comparo was on flexplates. Are there weights on the flywheels to compare?




