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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #31  
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Though I suspect the PCMs outputs are indeed open-collector, paralleling them would defeat the purpose of monitoring the GPRs output voltage. If you did that, the possibility is there of a faulty GPR still illuminating the WTS, and defeats the real purpose.

I like your thinking of using an NPN to reverse the logic. That would simplify things a bit.

I suspect a 2N2222 and a 1K would do the job nicely, but I'd have to do the math to be sure, and I don't know the bulb's current draw.

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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Though I suspect the PCMs outputs are indeed open-collector, paralleling them would defeat the purpose of monitoring the GPRs output voltage. If you did that, the possibility is there of a faulty GPR still illuminating the WTS, and defeats the real purpose.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean here. A faulty GPR would mean that the WTS light would not light (at least after the normal WTS cycle timed out).

Originally Posted by SpringerPop
I like your thinking of using an NPN to reverse the logic. That would simplify things a bit.

I suspect a 2N2222 and a 1K would do the job nicely, but I'd have to do the math to be sure, and I don't know the bulb's current draw.

Pop
Yep, 1K would give plenty of base current, I think you could even use 10K. LED's are typically 20 or 30 milliamps. I think 2222's have a minimum beta of 100.

If you used an N-channel MOSFET, you could eliminate the resistor. My only concern might be voltage spikes caused by starting or other load dumps. Might need a diode or two for protection.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by KelVarnson
I'm not sure I understand what you mean here. A faulty GPR would mean that the WTS light would not light (at least after the normal WTS cycle timed out).
Wired the way that you suggest (OR'd together) if you were relying on the WTS light to indicate GPR current, you would have an initial erroneous indication (for some appreciable time) when the GPR is failed.

I would simply show the status of GPR output, and forget about OR'ing the two signals.

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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 09:53 PM
  #34  
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Got it, thanks.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #35  
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Where are you guys running this through the firewall into the cab from?

I don't have guage cluster in my truck so I can't follow thoes wires.

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #36  
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Through one of the "firewall pass-through" wires.

If you've got a SuperDuty (this IS a forum for SuperDutys), you've got those.

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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #37  
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I have a 97 obs
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 06:57 PM
  #38  
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Drill, rubber grommet, RTV sealant.

Waa-laa!

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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by MTDewX
I am curious where you guys get the 1 amp fuse. sounds funny and I laugh at my self too. but I can't seem to find them. been to local auto stores and nothing.
PM me your address and I will mail you a couple...I use lots of them in stereo restoration work.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 08:00 PM
  #40  
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Do you need to run a fuse? All it does is protect the $2 LED. The dues is more then the light.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 11:54 AM
  #41  
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What it really does is prevent a fire if there's a short downstream somewhere.
 
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