GPR LED Light
Go Bills !
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 65
From: Buffalo, NY
Update: Tested the the blue wire that is fused and it is reading .75 volts Key off and 9.18 volts KOEO, the wire was not connected to the relay during testing. Is this wire supposed to have voltage with it not connected?
Another test hooked up the power wire and the 2 small terminal wires hooked up the LED wire KOEO no light, tried grounding the relay to click over nothing.
Any suggestions?
Another test hooked up the power wire and the 2 small terminal wires hooked up the LED wire KOEO no light, tried grounding the relay to click over nothing.
Any suggestions?
Of course you want to use a inline fuse 1 amp fuse will do. On the wire from the GPR to the LED. as close as you can to the GPR.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
I had the led wire on the large terminal with the blue fused (OEM wire that turns red in the wire loom) it was keeping the LED on constantly since the OEM blue fused wire has 9.18 V going through it with the KOEO.
So the relay is not sending power to the GP because of the blue fused wire is feeding the relay with 9.18 V and the constant hot feeding 11.86 V.
I believe I have a bigger issue and probably should start a new thread.
So the relay is not sending power to the GP because of the blue fused wire is feeding the relay with 9.18 V and the constant hot feeding 11.86 V.
I believe I have a bigger issue and probably should start a new thread.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Update: The blue fused OEM wire has voltage when KOEO, (tested my neighbors truck same truck as mine) what I have come up with was my AIH delete. I made the 470 ohm resistor grounded to the block but it was allowing 2.75 volts enough to constantly illuminate the LED for the GPR.
So thats good news. But now I have to figure out the AIH delete. As for the GPR led it must be to warm here in southern CA because the GPR wont kick over unless I ground the small terminal in which the GP's heat up and the light comes on. Will have to try it early in the morning to see if it is cold enough for them. (Probably not)
So thats good news. But now I have to figure out the AIH delete. As for the GPR led it must be to warm here in southern CA because the GPR wont kick over unless I ground the small terminal in which the GP's heat up and the light comes on. Will have to try it early in the morning to see if it is cold enough for them. (Probably not)
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
After reading this post I installed the LED light mod and tested it. Works great. Now I have a question.
When should the truck be started? When the "Wait to Start" lamp turns off or when the LED light turns off?
Thanks
Jeff
When should the truck be started? When the "Wait to Start" lamp turns off or when the LED light turns off?
Thanks
Jeff
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,243
Likes: 16
From: AZ
When the LED turns off start the truck...the WTS light tells you nothing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
a voltmeter gauge would collaborate with what Neal just said. With light on..(led), the volts are around 11-ish, once lights' off, needle moves to 13+volts. You want the juice to fire ur motor, and batteries last longer
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 39
The only thing I would add to this thread is that you don't need big wire at all. 22 or 24 gauge is more than enough, any smaller and it gets harder to work with. LED's only pull 20 or 30 milliamps, typically.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 39
Radio Shack will have inline fuse holders, and fuses to go in them. You can either get the 3AG size (physical size), or the 5 x 20 mm size, which is about the same diameter, but shorter. Make sure you get the right size holder for the fuse.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Panama City, Fl
Has anyone tried to re-wired the wait to start light direct to the GPR......
Someone tell me where I can cut that light out of the system and re-wire it....
Would it effect the check engine light?
Someone tell me where I can cut that light out of the system and re-wire it....
Would it effect the check engine light?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
It has occurred to me to do just that, and I looked at the circuit board on the back of the instrument panel to see what's necessary. As I recall, it would be very simple by cutting a couple of copper traces and tacking in a couple of wires.
This is necessary because one side of the WTS light is always on +12 volts and is awaiting a ground from the PCM, whereas it needs to be modified to always being on ground looking for a +12 volt input.
Ignore the blue tape arrow in the photo below (it's for another project). The WTS is the middle of the left-most three sockets.
Pop
This is necessary because one side of the WTS light is always on +12 volts and is awaiting a ground from the PCM, whereas it needs to be modified to always being on ground looking for a +12 volt input.
Ignore the blue tape arrow in the photo below (it's for another project). The WTS is the middle of the left-most three sockets.
Pop
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 39
If someone was feeling adventurous and wanted to convert a positive signal (from the GPR) to a pull-down-to-ground signal, that can be accomplished with a single NPN transistor and a resistor, both available from Radio Shack, and I would be happy to describe how to do it.
Going a little further, if the signal from the PCM is open-collector (or open-drain), the transistor could just be thrown in parallel with the PCM and both functions would be "ORed" together. ...but I don't know whether the PCM meets that criteria.
Going a little further, if the signal from the PCM is open-collector (or open-drain), the transistor could just be thrown in parallel with the PCM and both functions would be "ORed" together. ...but I don't know whether the PCM meets that criteria.