Is there some way to improve on the factory E-brake setup? I have four wheel disc brakes but the ebrake sucks. My shoes have plenty of material on them and they're adjusted correctly but still can't hold my truck on even the slightest incline. I've taken them apart and cleaned everything with brake cleaner so there shouldn't be any film or residue letting them slip. BTW which do most of you think is the better pad: EBC or Hawk? Thanks for your input

 

Thankfully I have an auto but I to have the same problem. I even went through changing the rotors and new e brake shoes and it just doesn't cut it. But we have other trucks similar and if you hit the e brake it will lock up the wheels. What gives? Have I not seated them properly?

 

I just tightened mine up. It uses different pads that the actual brakes in the inside of the brakes is a little drum with an adjustment wheel like on old cars w/ drums. Mine wouldn't hold a hill so I just ran the little wheel in on the adjuster until it would. I'm not sure which way I turned it but I went one way a bit and tested it and if it was looser I went the other way.

Works fine now.

 

Throw a sanding disc on your die grinder and take the top layer of material off the pads, wear a mask. Clean up the drums, reinstall, adjust if needed, and giver a try. I've done a few this way with decent results.

 

Subscribing, my ebrake doesn't do a damn thing

 

Mine was that way too. When I changed the shoes it was like they were new. Put the new shoes on it was the same. Reajusted after a month till the wheels won't turn then tried again and they work. There not great, and I dout they will lock the wheels while rolling, but they hold on a hill now and didn't before. Junk set up for sure. Please post if if you find shoes that really work. I have a dually, e99. Chet

 

If you've ever left your e-brake on and drove away the pads glaze in a very short period of time. I had the e-brake switch on the petal go out and drove with mine on for probably less than a mile. E-brake didn' t work after that - pulled the rotors off to find "shiny" pads. Scuffed them up and they were fine afterwards

 

Maybe not for everyone but why couldn't you install a electric line lock valve. Like what they use at the track or on hydraulic brakes on tongue brakes like what's on a trailer. Have it in the rear brake lines. I "think" ot would work great! But not sure if it would affect the atilock system or possibly begin leaking and have a leak or air intrusion.

 

I had this happen to me as well but the result was the complete opposite, the E-brake worked getter then New. Only lasted for only about 8 months though.

 

When mine happened I took off @ hwy speeds. Probably went about 1-1.5 miles at 65 mph. Glazed them ovr real bad. Luckily it didn't do any damage other than the pads. I don't think the petal was all the way down though which is probably why they glazed and it didn't damage the rotors.

 

I've never driven away with mine but it was a company/work truck for 120,000 miles when I got it so there's no telling what they did to it. I've been looking for better shoes for the rear but all I can find is the standard replacements at the parts stores (sure wish EBC made some!) so I guess I'll try the resurfacing method first and if that don't work I'll replace them and scuff the drums. Thanks for the advice guys I'll post as soon as I try something and see how it works. Gotta get the clutch back in first!

 

hm, this seems to make sense, metal doesnt have much friction so grippy pads must be mandatory. Would wire-wheeling them work? or did you use low grit sand paper?

 

I use a disc on a die grinder. 120 grit sandpaper worked the only time I tried it, just took longer.

 

Bad terminology on my part, I think they are called conditioning discs. Anyway, one of these..

 

I've always wanted to install a linelock in the rear or both front and rear brake lines for short term use.

Stock E-brakes suck, I always wished they would put a single disc on the pinion or up on the trans with a caliper for the e-brake. Much easier to hold back the reduced driveshaft gearing ratio rather than strait 1:1 at the wheels if you understand what I am saying.