Waterpump Diagnosis

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Oct 6, 2011 | 06:51 AM

Atc210

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 424

Likes: 5

From: Missouri

Waterpump Diagnosis

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9; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> How do I confirm my water pump is bad? If it leaks from the seep hole can you normally see it? Ford looked at it and said it was bad due to it leaking. After I looked at it I found the lower radiator hose leaking, surly they would have caught that right? I am questioning them because Ford also said my tensioner and idler pulleys are bad and they clearly are not.

I plan to flush the system using Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure and replacing coolant with NAPA’s Zerex Extreme Heavy Duty coolant. I don’t want to flush the system then find out the pump is bad and waste my money flushing out the system.
Please Help!
PS: Is there a shade tree mechanic way to pressure test the cooling system to verify pump is leaking from the seep hole?

Oct 6, 2011 | 08:19 AM

tdappleman

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 1,388

Likes: 2

From: Greensboro, NC

I would ensure the coolant tank is completely full, let it run and get warmed up and then take it for a 5-10 min drive to ensure the system is pressurized. When you get home - leave it running and look to see if you have any leaks. It should be obvious if there are any issues since the coolant is now hot and about 15-16psi. It's not as quick as using a pressure tester but it usually works just fine. If you have an Advance or something similar near you they will loan you most tools.

Oct 6, 2011 | 12:02 PM

ScaldedDog

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 1,458

Likes: 156

From: Sedalia, CO

You can also use a mechanics mirror to see the weep hole. Obviously not while the motor is running.....

Mark

Oct 6, 2011 | 01:57 PM

Atc210

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 424

Likes: 5

From: Missouri

Used the mirror to check the weep hole after the drive home from the dealer and there was no indication of moisture being present. Although I did see the leak at the lower radiator hose, which I already know about.
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I will check again when I get home. Is the weep hole leak or a leak around the pump itself the only indication its going bad? This radiator flush is going to run around $100 in coolant and water so I would rather not do it twice.

Oct 6, 2011 | 03:12 PM

jh818

Cargo Master

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 2,885

Likes: 26

From: Chino, California

I would bite the bullet and replace the water pump, fix the lower hose leak, and get the system flushed out. This would give you a peace of mind that your pump is good for a while. You can do the tensioner and idler pulley at another time, or all the same time. Yeah, it'll cost $$$, but at least you'll know it's done and over with.

If you don't fix that leak, you'll lose some coolant when you decide to fix it later after your flush.

Edit: Correct spelling to peace of mind instead of piece of mind. Listened to too much Iron Maiden back in the day.

Oct 6, 2011 | 04:10 PM

ScaldedDog

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 1,458

Likes: 156

From: Sedalia, CO

What jh818 said. I flushed mine, then did the wp six months later.

Wrong order.

Mark

Oct 6, 2011 | 06:41 PM

Stewart_H

Super Moderator

Joined: May 2004

Posts: 29,380

Likes: 118

From: Central Coast of CA

The guys have already said it, but why don't you just replace the pump when you do the flush?

If funds are the deciding factor, wait and save until you have enough to do it all at the same time.

Gooch's Coolant Flush Procedure and In-Depth Coolant Information - FTE

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Oct 6, 2011 | 08:14 PM

Skinsfan6

Elder User

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 566

Likes: 1

From: Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atc210

Whats the normal life span of 7.3 water pump?

125,000-150,000 miles. I've replaced two OEM pumps on mine within this mileage slot.

It sounds to me like your water pump is fine though. Take your serpentine belt loose and check for play in the shaft of the water pump. If there is no noticeable play and the pump itself is not leaking, I would leave it. They aren't exactly cheap. Fix the hose leak and flush the system if that's what you want. I'm all for replacing things for peace of mind, but if the water pump is 2 years old I find it hard to believe it is anywhere close to wearing out. In a few more years I'm sure you can save the money for a water pump and new coolant, and in the meantime replace anything that needs replacing immediately.

Lastly, if you are changing the water pump but don't want to lose all your water buy radiator hose pinch-off clamps. They're like vise grips with two flat, yet dull surfaces that clamp hoses shut. I bought mine for $8 at Harbor Freight. If you have one for both the top hose and bottom hose, you can change a water pump only losing the coolant in the engine block, which greatly reduces the amount needed to fill it back up.

Oct 6, 2011 | 08:24 PM

#10

Stewart_H

Super Moderator

Joined: May 2004

Posts: 29,380

Likes: 118

From: Central Coast of CA

What year is your Ex? What coolant do you have in it right now?

Stewart

Oct 6, 2011 | 09:04 PM

#11

Atc210

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 424

Likes: 5

From: Missouri

Its a 02 with green coolant. That is the other reason I want to flush it, as I believe it should have the HD ELC. I talked with ford and they recommend green coolant with the additive. That really contradicts what everyone here and in the 7.3 forum says about the 02's coolant. REALLY DISAPPOINTED IN MY DEALER HERE IN MO!!!

I just want to take care of the Ex. I will have it a long time unless they start making them again, then I will a new one.

Currently have 184,000 on the clock. Guess it's broke in by know.

I cleaned the front portion of the block really well today so I can easily spot any other leaks. In doing so Ford stated the front main seal was leaking, after cleaning I found its not the front seal but, actually the CPS.

Oct 8, 2011 | 04:21 PM

#12

Atc210

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 424

Likes: 5

From: Missouri

ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w

9; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> Ok, so I completed the radiator flush, changed lower hose, new CPS (gray from NAPA), belt and few other items. So what do you guys think will happen Monday when I have a come to Jesus meeting with my deal’s service department. Here is why I will be talking with them:

First reason for trip to dealer is I had a check engine light on so they tell me for 75 they run a diagnostic to pull codes (not realizing that didn’t include 100 for labor). That’s all fine and great I don’t have that equipment so they found a short in the IPR harness with P1209 code.
So they also replaced the IPR at 280 plus labor. When I asked why the IPR was replaced for a short, was told because the code stated it was stuck wide open. My next question was, wouldn’t a short in the harness cause the IPR to energize causing a wide open code, and why was it not rebuilt and I want the old one where is it? We don’t have it any more and the scanner said it was bad so they replaced it. With a response like that I was lost for words.

So for the real reason I plan to talk with them; they charged me 150 to falsely diagnose a problem I paid them to investigate. So in return I would like the labor for the false diagnosis back, is that out of the question? Was told the pump, tensioner, pulleys and front main seal was leaking. After my own diagnostic check found the tensioner, pulleys, water pump and front main seal were in fact in perfect working order. The problem was the lower radiator hose that was leaking and the CPS o ring which was installed by them was torn when installed.

So long story short no more trips to dealer for service. Is my request for the 150 dollars back for the 1.5 hours of labor for miss diagnosing my repairs out of the question?

Oct 8, 2011 | 04:54 PM

#13

jh818

Cargo Master

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 2,885

Likes: 26

From: Chino, California

You can give it a shot to get your refund. Sounds legit to me. Next time, save the diagnostic and put it towards a scanner so you can diagnose yourself forever. It will also work on any other vehicle you own with OBDII. Then you can post questions here and the good folks here on FTE will guide you...for free.

Oct 9, 2011 | 10:01 PM

#14

Atc210

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 424

Likes: 5

From: Missouri

Maybe you can answer me this, I have an old snap-on brick scanner (MT-2500) and was looking for new cartridges for it so I can run my own codes but have not had any luck. I have the plug just not new enough cartridges they only go up to 98. I was going to call the snap-on guy tomorrow and see what he could find. That would be so nice, and save me some doe in the long run. What scanner do you recommend if the scanner I have dont work out?

Oct 10, 2011 | 12:20 AM

#15

jh818

Cargo Master

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 2,885

Likes: 26

From: Chino, California

Scanguage2. I also have a pocket scanner made by Actron.

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