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So here's the run down: 04 6.0l with 40k. Coolant filter since about 18k and vehicle has never been used to tow, just driven a like it should be with a gearheads tune. So about a week ago i noticed coolant on the radiator where the tanks attach on both sides. Got a FoMoCo radiator and some Gold coolant and made the swap which included a change of the coolant filter while i was in there. Refilled with a 50/50 mix of Gold and distilled. Drove a couple short tips but never really paid attention to gauges since the swap until today.
Deltas were previously no more than about 10 prior to the swap. Now that I’ve swapped out the radiator and coolant filter i saw a 25 degree difference today. ECT never went over 190 and the EOT slowly kept climbing until about 215. Now i wasn't able to get a good long run out on the highway but was taking it easy on some 40 mph roads. My biggest concern is that the EOT never went down, stayed the same at times or slowly went up but never down. Ambient temp was about 72at the time. And after parking the truck for about an hour both temps settled to withing a degree at about 165.
So any idea what could have gone wrong or is causing the incereased deltas now?
Did you do a back flush with thermostate out and pull both sides block plugs, hopefully the oil cooler didnt get the waist, lets see what the other guys have to say before you get too worriedp.s did you put a new OEM thermostate back in
forgot to mention both issues....new degas cap and new oem thermostat. No flush, didn't want to take that chance as I have a new cooler, headstuds, egr delete all in the future but no cash for that right now.
The only thing I can think of is maybe a piece of paper, or a paper towel, or some trash or shipping packaging in the new radiator washed it's way to the oil cooler .
Dropping the old coolant and putting in fresh shouldn't have taken it from 10* to 25*.
I would try to backflush the oil cooler ASAP. You probably disturbed the crap and it ended up in the oil cooler. When you backflush, squeze the hose and make the water jerk so it pulse in the oil cooler.
Purchase a ¾” hose or plastic tubing and adapters to connect that tubing to a garden hose. You will need to remove the cap on the oil cooler cover where the orange hose or blue hose connect. This hose connects to the oil cooler cover and the EGR cooler. It feed coolant to your EGR cooler.
Also remove the thermostat and lower Rad hose. Just backflush the heck out of it. You should also backflush the heather rad by disconnecting both end of the heather hose
well that sucks , I even need an alka selser, Try the VC-9 cem flush I think you can still save this oil cooler if you get on this like now, Benny has the flush info as it seems to work well,
Silly question.
Did you plug the fan back in?
If yes are you sure that the wires are all good?
If you have a SGII or some thing that will report the fan speed
check it out and see.
Plugged everything back in, and checked the wet soak temps today and they are exactly the same. However when i looked under the hood today i noticed it puked just a tiny bit no real loss of coolant and about 10 little spot of coolant outside the degas tank. So that work i was pushing off is now at the top of my list....
Since i have no other choice at this point the truck goes in Monday. On the work list, arp studs, HPOP and all other updates while the cab is off. Can't wait to get it back and really be able to "drive" it again and ill be ordering some new tunes to go with it. Still wondering if i'll find out what plugged my oil cooler by changing the radiator.