so I dropped the tank and cleaned it, out ran all new lines, put in airtex e pump refilled tank primed filter hooked batts up and turned key. epump started chugging and then the GP relay under air filter went batsh** and wouldn't stop. sounded like psychotic squirrel chattering. pump continued to chug along so I think it is wired in right- spliced into FSS wire-but don't know what up with GP relay what to do/look at? Truck has been sitting so long it's got it's own ecosystem living in it getting really frustrated!!I'll be reading sticky about glo-plugs now- have motorcraft zd9 plugs just installed 1 month ago only had 7 think my son stole one so 1 old plug

 

I personally ran into a problem similar to this in my own truck... Replace that 1 old glow plug...Might fix it, that GP could have a Short in it causing your problem.

Just my 2 cents......

 

it may be the way the pump is wired. i don't think the FSS will supply enough power for a pump. i have mine wired to a switched terminal in the fuse block triggering a relay with the power feed for the pump directly to the battery.

 

a relay is just a switch that is triggered on via electrical current rather than a manual switch.this is the easiest way to think of a relay(the basic single type you'll be using.)
so if you use the hot power (whenever the key is on) from the FSS.then use it only to trigger the relay to pass the line from the battery to your pump.don't try and run the pump itself off the FSS line.

85 = ground.
86 = FSS.
87 = electric fuel pump.
30 = line with a fuse (check your pumps info.just a 3 or a 5 amp is usually enough) from your + battery.

so as you can see here its simple how they work.86 and 30 want to become one line,but only when you turn the key on.so when you send a hot signal to 86 (like the FSS line) its simply doing nothing but pushing out a metal bar inside there to connect 86 to 30 and your pump begins to run, drawing its power directly from your battery,which is protected via a fuse.
you never switch ground wires,so a ground wire from your pump will go directly to ground on the frame,or right to the - battery terminal so its always grounded.

 

much to learn have I obi wan, I will hook up the relay asap and I think I figured out what was up with GP relay and I belong in my tool box with the rest of the tools. I only had 1 battery reconnected so I had very low voltage going to the controller when I turned the key...DOH

 

diagram fixed.the one i posted before had ground and switch 85/86 backwards.sorry.above is correct now.

 

ROFL.... OOOOOOOOOPPPPPPPPSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!

Hey It happens..... Glad you figured out the Problem

 

diagram different, description the same? If 86=FSS then shouldn't 87 and 85 be the connection that is being made?and 30 is the +battery connection to the new e pump?

 

lets try this analogy;

positive + 12v is your fuel.
negative (also called ground,as this is literally what it is; earth) is your exhaust.
relay = switch (toggled via electricity instead of manually.)

85 = ground. analogy; exhaust from your engine.actually in this case here,it's really just to protect.
you never want to connect power + directly to - negative ground.this is when sparks fly.
so think of this line as a backup in the event the relay shorts.instead of a fire,it will simply blow the fuse you placed from your battery (terminal line 30.)
no other terminals in the switch will connect to this terminal at any time.this terminal is not part of the switch.it's just a place to connect ground to.so this terminal is easy to understand.protection in the event of a short in the relay/switch.
power will never go here.if it does,the switch has failed.


86 = FSS. no analogy.but explanation;
think of this line as YOU with a toggle switch.but instead of you actually turning a switch on,your just letting the FSS power do it for you ok? this is all this line is used for here.just to toggle the switch for you,and as we know this happens when you turn the key on.
this can be any hot line.in this application,we want to find a hot line only when the key is turned on.otherwise the pump would run all the time.the FSS is easy to get to so its often used.

87 = electric fuel pump.

30 = line with a fuse (check your pumps info.just a 3 or a 5 amp is usually enough) from your + battery.

87 + 30 = power + to the pump.think of this as supplying fuel to the engine (but as in the wires i mean,not the pump. for the analogy to work lol.)

so you hookup a wire from your battery positive + with a 5 amp fuse in the line and you hook this to terminal 30.
now you run a line from the electric fuel pump to terminal 87.

when the switch activates (by terminal 86 receiving power) closed (turns on) it connects 87 and 30 so the power flows directly from the battery (30) positive + into the fuel pumps positive + line and it begins to spin (which of course literally sends fuel to your engine lol.)

now onto the actual exhaust analogy.
you hook the ground wire from the electric fuel pump directly to negative - ground (any good clean metal surface of the truck should all be - negative/ground, but often it's nice to simply run a wire directly to the negative post where corrosion can be easily avoided,by cleaning it regularly.)
this way this "exhaust" is never switched.it's simply always free to expel the "waste" energy like your engine does.

 

I don't know if its just me, but that really doesn't make any sense.

A relay is a switch controlled by a small electro magnet. The electro magnet is a coil of wire with one end at terminal 85, the other end at terminal 86.

30 is 12V in from the battery, and should be fused according to whatever you want the relay to power.
87 is where you connect the accessory (in this case your fuel pump).
Generally 85 is grounded (connected to chassis or battery negative)
86 is the trigger wire, and gets 12V from either a manual switch, or in your case, the FSS (fuel shutoff solenoid).

When terminal 86 gets 12V, it completes the circuit through the electro magnet (coil) and connects terminals 30 and 87 so your accessory turns on.

In actuality, the terminals can be switched, as long as they are correctly paired up. What I mean is that either 85 or 86 can be grounded, and the other one being the trigger wire. Likewise either 30 or 87 can get 12V from the battery, and the other runs to your accessory.
Depending on the situation, and how things are wired, you could run 12V to both terminal 30 and 86 together. Then put a switch to ground on 85.

Google "12v relay wiring" and you will get a lot of links with pictures telling how to wire different things with relays. Some relays have a 5th terminal, 87a, which is connected to 30 when the relay is off.