It about kills me that my ex has rust. I have been searching for the best method to deal with it, and finally think I found something to at least get it off everything. Not only the underbody, but everywhere. (brakes, inner brakes, etc.)

FYI, After a lot of research I will likely follow up the 100% rust removal project with some sort of epoxy or primer followed by herculiner.

The website below sells a liquid rust remover that is probably just an acid. They advise you to either submerge your object or

For great rust removal Safest Rust Remover

!! Use a sump pump to continually soak an item that can not be submerged. So just place a tarp under excursion on a slope. Make it so that the liquid all ends up in a depressed area where the pump is and put a sprayer where you want the rust removal.

Does anyone know if phosphoric or citric acid will damage anything like rubber, wiring, etc?

 

Phosphoric acid does have some issues. It will kill paint, it doesn't do anything good for non-ferrous metals, and at a decent concentration it will eat rubber.

I use Ospho Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947 you can apply it with a paint brush, and it will turn the rust to a white powdery residue and black oxide finish. Wipe/blow the powder off and cover with paint or bedliner material.

 

Interesting. What do you think about the continual wash method? Sprayer to hose to bilge pump to kiddie pool. Spray an area until rust is gone and then move on to the next area.

On the subject of rubber and paint. I'm not too concerned right now about paint, since I was actually going to try and use a stripper on the few areas that haven't failed.

The effect on rubber and wiring concerns me though.

 

HomeDepot carries a similar solution under a different name. Very easy to use, I will be doing a lot of work my truck with this stuff. I purchase a used 2006 FX4 and the bottom is coated in rust. I think this will be a simple, yet effective, solution for making it look like new again and helping preserve the metal.

 

I would recommend an angle grinder, some wire brushes and then seal it. Here is post from when I did mine. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12261141

Did interior gut this weekend and sound/rust proof from the inside down. Pics coming soon have to heal up first (broke a rib) cheater bar slip. Ouch

 

Wow, I am impressed! My truck is not as bad off as yours was, I feel lucky after seeing your pictures. Sorry to hear about the rib, hope you fell better soon.

 

Thanks!

And in my defense on the rust I didn't let it get that way, I bought it from a guy in Massachusetts in May of this year who should be ashamed of himself for letting an Excursion or any vehicle get that bad. Just plain lazy. Living in the rust belt most people know it's like changing your oil, has to be done if you want to keep your vehicle more than a few years.

I read about the method you used when I was researching my options but the idea of continuous flow for that long and the mess kept me from trying it, didn't really have any space outside of my garage. Sounds like you had the space to do it in the yard. How long did it take you to get it all done?

 

I have not started yet, just bought the truck two weeks ago. The rust isn't that bad, but I don't want to let it go unchecked. The rear dif cover looks so bad I am afraid to wire brush it! I have used the stuff from Home Depot on some boat parts, and on my 2000 Expedition. After cleaning the metal you just spray it on (I used a water bottle sprayer) and let it dry. It doesn't really make a mess, it is kind of like a metal etch. After it dries just wipe it down to knock off any loose particles, then paint. What I like is the stuff is like water, so it gets in every little nook and cranny. A friend of mine who restores vintage motorcycles turned me on to it.

 

Phosphoric acid is a rust converter, it converts iron oxide (rust) to water soluble iron phosphate. Iron phosphate can be rinsed off with water. However, once it's washed off, you need to apply a coating to the metal to inhibit any electrolyte (water and salt are the most common for trucks) from reaching the metal surface. The electrolyte completes an electrical circuit and starts the corrosion (rust) of the anode. You can buy Navel Jelly at Home Depot/Lowes which is phosphoric acid in a gel. You can usually buy a phosphoric solution at professional paint stores.

You can also just seal the rust with products such as POR-15. POR-15 and similar products do not convert the rust, they just penetrate the rust and prevent electrolytes from getting to the metal surface.

 

Anybody try this stuff? Chassis Saver Chassis Saver Paint.... for the WIN.. - YouTube

 

I took a better look under the truck today, not as bad as I thought.

 

That rust removal method you’re talking about sounds like it could really help for underbody cleanup before sealing or painting, and it’s awesome when someone digs in and finds a practical approach. Keeping that area clean and treated makes a big difference in how long the truck holds up, especially in harsh conditions. I’ve even used long drives with services like sallimoservice to get trucks to a shop without adding more wear while waiting on body work. What products are you planning to use for rust prevention after you finish the removal?