Topcoat for Zero Rust?
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Topcoat for Zero Rust?
Can anyone reccommend a paint that I could topcoat Zero Rust with. Can ZeroRust be sanded? I am thinking of stripping my 1989 F150 to bare metal. This isn't really the recommended use but has anyone had any experience with it. I'm not looking for a real fancy paintjob. It may be awhile between stripping and painting. My pickup is looking pretty awful from peeling paint. A little surface rust. No dents. Thanks for any info. Bruce
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From: Northwest Fl
I don't think Zero Rust is intended to be used as a primer and as expensive as paint is and as much work as it takes to get it ready to paint, I wouldn't want to take a chance of having it peel off in six months and have to do all that work it over.
If I were stripping a truck, I would prefer to use the zero rust on the inner panels, floors etc. then treat the out side panels, to kill any rust, then follow that with an epoxy primer. That way you can avoid some of the compatibility issues with your finishing paints. For us amateurs, it is usually less risky to stick with one paint system as opposed to mixing components, unless you really know what your doing.
I have used zero rust and love it, but I don't think it dries as hard as other paints, and that could be a problem under a hard topcoat.
If I were stripping a truck, I would prefer to use the zero rust on the inner panels, floors etc. then treat the out side panels, to kill any rust, then follow that with an epoxy primer. That way you can avoid some of the compatibility issues with your finishing paints. For us amateurs, it is usually less risky to stick with one paint system as opposed to mixing components, unless you really know what your doing.
I have used zero rust and love it, but I don't think it dries as hard as other paints, and that could be a problem under a hard topcoat.
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Yes I realize that most reccommend epoxy primer. I don't have access to spray gun and compressor. Was just looking for a way to do it with aerosol. Seemed like Zero Rust would be an ideal inexpensive one step method of priming, sealing, rust protection. I think Aekisu tried it one time and had some success. Thanks for you input.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Northwest Fl
If Aekisu said he has topcoated over ZR, with good results, then I'm sure its can be done, as he certainly brings a lot of knowledge to this forum.
Good luck with your project and welcome to FTE!
Good luck with your project and welcome to FTE!
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Well, I have painted a buddies truck with ZR. Scuffed his old paint and went to bare metal where needed. He was so happy with the affect, that he never got it painted.
I'm driving a 86 Ford that has a ZR base. When it was painted, a coat of epoxy sealer was applied before the single stage urethane. That's probably been about 7 years ago. The paint is still solid.
ZR isn't really a primer but I used it as such on the 86. It's designed as a topcoat and you can expect some UV fading.
Well, I have painted a buddies truck with ZR. Scuffed his old paint and went to bare metal where needed. He was so happy with the affect, that he never got it painted.
I'm driving a 86 Ford that has a ZR base. When it was painted, a coat of epoxy sealer was applied before the single stage urethane. That's probably been about 7 years ago. The paint is still solid.
ZR isn't really a primer but I used it as such on the 86. It's designed as a topcoat and you can expect some UV fading.
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Aekisu, when you painted your 86 did you sand or scuff the ZR before applying the epoxy sealer? What grit would you reccommend? Also, how long after applying ZR did you wait before painting it? Any reccommendations on that? How about the epoxy sealer, do you remember what kind/brand you used? I appreciate any feedback. Thanks, Bruce
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
The 86 was a longggg term (a couple of years if I remember correctly) project. I continued to drive it in the rain. I did my bodywork on bare steel and topcoated the filler with ZR. The ZR kept it rust-free until the vehicle was painted.
ZR has a long drying period. If recall correctly, 2 week of drying is recommended before topcoating. It might be an idea to stop by the ZR site and ask their support section.
Paint binds by either melting into the previous coat or by grabbing a roughened surface. Anytime you exceed the previous paint's topcoat time, you need to roughen the surface. The topcoat time varies from product to product. Since you need to allow the ZR to dry, you will need to scuff it before applying other paint. 400 grit (and red Scotch-Brite for those hard to reach spots) should work just fine.
The epoxy I use is R-M's EP series with PA897 activator. R-M also makes Diamont paint, which I use.
The 86 was a longggg term (a couple of years if I remember correctly) project. I continued to drive it in the rain. I did my bodywork on bare steel and topcoated the filler with ZR. The ZR kept it rust-free until the vehicle was painted.
ZR has a long drying period. If recall correctly, 2 week of drying is recommended before topcoating. It might be an idea to stop by the ZR site and ask their support section.
Paint binds by either melting into the previous coat or by grabbing a roughened surface. Anytime you exceed the previous paint's topcoat time, you need to roughen the surface. The topcoat time varies from product to product. Since you need to allow the ZR to dry, you will need to scuff it before applying other paint. 400 grit (and red Scotch-Brite for those hard to reach spots) should work just fine.
The epoxy I use is R-M's EP series with PA897 activator. R-M also makes Diamont paint, which I use.
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