Changing Balljoints
Once you go back in again, use the recommended BFH "fine adjustment" tool and go at it. Just make sure you don't mushroom the head of the ball joint stud to where you can't get it out. Also, did you try a pickle fork on the ball joints?
The squeeking was driving me crazy!!! My X has 69K miles and I knew it was time to change the ball joints. I spent the last two days (15 hours) doing the job... time would have been much shorter if it wasn't for my OCD .
With the right tools, and the internet almost anything can be accomplished if you have the confidence to tackle the job!! .
I did not realize how bad the ball joints actually were. When I did the "test" I could move what wheels what seemed like at least 1/4 inch up & down... way too much play.
Here's some helpful hints and the links to into I used.
1.) Racerguy's thread was what gave me the confidence to do the job.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...joints-31.html
...and yes, I read each and every post.
2.) This write up was the BEST... lots of pics and info.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250BallJoints.htm
3.) Another "how to"...
TheDieselStop.Com - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
4.) Mercury45 did a write up too...
http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/ball.pdf
5.) SUPERDUTYPSD did a write up worth reading too...
Ball Joint Replacement Write-Up For Ford F250 F350 Superduty
6.) And finally, Guzzle's needle bearing lube site was copied "just in case".
Guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page
7.) Here's where I got the knuckle seal driver (a decent price-$60) It's steel and it worked like a charm.
http://www.toolsource.com/vacuum-sea...-p-100397.html
8.) Some good answers to questions that reinforced info from other sites...
Tight Ball Joints? - Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com
I got my "rental" tools from Advance Auto. The Ball Joint kit is the heavy duty type with a retail value of $169... it had all the parts needed... it was extra-heavy duty. I got the 2 / 3 Clawed puller too... I used the 3 inch and 2 claws for the tie-rod ends and the 3 clawed 6 inch parts to pull the hubs. GET THIS... without it, I know it would have been a itch to get them off.
To pound off the knuckle I went to Autozone and got the #27021 Pitman Arm Puller. It was wide enough and took the punishment of my 8 pound BFH like a trooper. This tool was a "free rental" too.
I got my Moog greaseable Ball joints here:
Powerstrokeshop.com
The kit does not include the autohub O-rings so I went to my local FoMoGuy and got them for 12 bucks.
I went to Sears and got the 1 1/8 socket for the upper and got the 33mm socket for the lower nut at Autozone... BTW... the Moogs upper and lower nuts are both 33mm.
While I was at Sears I picked up their biggest 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and their best snap-ring plyers. (both were around 26 bucks each).
You can never have enough tools in the tool cabinet!!!
Of course... I have a big air-compressor and air tools (a must to use the ball-joint press.)
So... right now I am basking in an overwhelming glow of self accomplishment... the most important thing was I saved at least one travel hockey (Mite A / son Bryant) season's fees doing it myself.
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