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Changing Balljoints

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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 06:25 PM
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Changing Balljoints

I have a 2005 Excursion 4X4 Diesel. I tried to change the ball joints and could not get the hub off. Any help would be appreciated
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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Assuming the 05 is same as 01, remove the retaining ring at outer diameter of hub by squeezing protruding tips with needle nose pliers or similar. Sometimes the hub gets stuck in the rotor. Use a rubber hammer and tap around the hub gently to free it. A little wd can help.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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the hub or the knuckle? the hub has 4 nuts behind it and to get my knuckles off i had to first remove the ball joint nuts then hit it hard and i mean hard with a bfh i used a 10lb sledge there id a flat spot on the top thats perfect for it
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Yeah. I assumed we were talking about the locking portion of hub. The unitized hub/bearing is held on with the four nuts.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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I misstated, it was the knuckle. I had the locking hub off. I couldn't get the knuckle off because of the ball joints.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jjdoyle
I misstated, it was the knuckle. I had the locking hub off. I couldn't get the knuckle off because of the ball joints.
That stinks! You get in so far only to get thwarted. I would suggest going crazy on it with PB blaster for a few days. Whack them with a hammer after spraying to help work the PB blaster in.

Once you go back in again, use the recommended BFH "fine adjustment" tool and go at it. Just make sure you don't mushroom the head of the ball joint stud to where you can't get it out. Also, did you try a pickle fork on the ball joints?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 11:45 AM
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This is a copy/paste of my ball joint adventure... Actually is was a fun one!!
The squeeking was driving me crazy!!! My X has 69K miles and I knew it was time to change the ball joints. I spent the last two days (15 hours) doing the job... time would have been much shorter if it wasn't for my OCD .

With the right tools, and the internet almost anything can be accomplished if you have the confidence to tackle the job!! .

I did not realize how bad the ball joints actually were. When I did the "test" I could move what wheels what seemed like at least 1/4 inch up & down... way too much play.

Here's some helpful hints and the links to into I used.

1.) Racerguy's thread was what gave me the confidence to do the job.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...joints-31.html
...and yes, I read each and every post.


2.) This write up was the BEST... lots of pics and info.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250BallJoints.htm


3.) Another "how to"...

TheDieselStop.Com - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com


4.) Mercury45 did a write up too...

http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/ball.pdf


5.) SUPERDUTYPSD did a write up worth reading too...

Ball Joint Replacement Write-Up For Ford F250 F350 Superduty

6.) And finally, Guzzle's needle bearing lube site was copied "just in case".

Guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page


7.) Here's where I got the knuckle seal driver (a decent price-$60) It's steel and it worked like a charm.

http://www.toolsource.com/vacuum-sea...-p-100397.html


8.) Some good answers to questions that reinforced info from other sites...

Tight Ball Joints? - Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com


I got my "rental" tools from Advance Auto. The Ball Joint kit is the heavy duty type with a retail value of $169... it had all the parts needed... it was extra-heavy duty. I got the 2 / 3 Clawed puller too... I used the 3 inch and 2 claws for the tie-rod ends and the 3 clawed 6 inch parts to pull the hubs. GET THIS... without it, I know it would have been a itch to get them off.

To pound off the knuckle I went to Autozone and got the #27021 Pitman Arm Puller. It was wide enough and took the punishment of my 8 pound BFH like a trooper. This tool was a "free rental" too.

I got my Moog greaseable Ball joints here:

Powerstrokeshop.com

The kit does not include the autohub O-rings so I went to my local FoMoGuy and got them for 12 bucks.

I went to Sears and got the 1 1/8 socket for the upper and got the 33mm socket for the lower nut at Autozone... BTW... the Moogs upper and lower nuts are both 33mm.

While I was at Sears I picked up their biggest 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and their best snap-ring plyers. (both were around 26 bucks each).

You can never have enough tools in the tool cabinet!!!

Of course... I have a big air-compressor and air tools (a must to use the ball-joint press.)

So... right now I am basking in an overwhelming glow of self accomplishment... the most important thing was I saved at least one travel hockey (Mite A / son Bryant) season's fees doing it myself.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Here is the whole thing in video. A really nice set of vids.

2000 Ford Excursion Ball Joint Replacement pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
 
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