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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

better brakes

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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:06 AM
  #16  
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Greyf100
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those are 2wd rotors, rockauto.com sells the same rotors for the 4wd just enter your information. Centric is the company that makes the "stoptech" rotors for summit.

Hawk or EBC pads and centric rotors are about as good as you can get without moving to a larger rotor, larger caliper, etc...
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:08 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Ebba's Monkey
Has anyone experimented with brake cooling by squirtgun? It seems like you could get a lot of extra heat dissipation by converting it into little clouds of steam with another reservoir and windshield washer (pair) setup. It could even be rigged to trigger after a second or two of pedal-depress. Hmm?
I would think that trying to "instant cool" rotors would have a negative effect on the heat treating in the rotors. I'm pretty sure quenching a hot rotor would cause it to become brittle.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:16 AM
  #18  
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I think the idea is to keep them cool, not to cool them off after they are scorching hot.
Hook the pump into the brake light circuit???
F1 and endurance cars did similar before they had carbon-carbon brakes.

You'll need a 5 gallon pail as a reservoir if you intend to keep an extra windshield pump running throughout a 5 mile downhill...
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:36 AM
  #19  
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An end-user would also want to take some extra measure or two to get the brakes dry, unless there's a cheap, water-like fluid that won't encourage rust. It does sound (in my head at least) as if it could be worth the chase and low expense.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:50 AM
  #20  
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Lightbulb Low expense.

Originally Posted by loveless41908
.... i do use the engine to slow me down somewhat just hate to see it smokin like that i have plans to build a replacement engine in the near future but the current engine still has a lot of life left...
You have an I-6, you could change the intake guide seals in an hour for the price of the cover gasket and the seals themselves.
Borrow/rent the tool from Vatozone when you buy the seals and snake a piece of clothesline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to hold the valve up.

Fix the REAL problem. (cheap)
Edit: just looked up valve seals for an I-6 on the AZ website... $8.99, the valve cover gasket is $7.99.

Why **** money away on your brakes if they will stop your truck fine when you're not abusing them by asking them to do something they were never designed to do? (slowing decent on mountain grades)

There's a reason that sign says 'Trucks use lower gear'
 
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #21  
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"Vatozone" Now thats funny
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #22  
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Thanks Ardwrkn!
 
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