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better brakes
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Hawk Performance HB292P-674 - Hawk Performance HP SuperDuty Brake Pads - Overview - SummitRacing.com - Pads
More Information for CENTRIC 12565013 - Rotors
I've had very good experiences on multiple vehicles with this setup.
More Information for CENTRIC 12565013 - Rotors
I've had very good experiences on multiple vehicles with this setup.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Montana
ok so the reason i ask is cause coming down a pretty steep mountain road with a full load of firewood my slightly tired (but good running) 300 six smokes coasting down in gear therefore i would rather use my brakes however i could smell them overheating that day and figured if im already planning some brake work id like to make it a brake upgrade
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Mexia, TX
That is a pretty darn good reason to upgrade. LOL. I'm sorry if I seemed rude, btw.
I think the hydroboost setup involves swapping out your vacuum-operated brake booster for a hydraulic unit that runs off the power steering pump. You need the hydroboost unit itself, the matching reservoir for the PS pump (it's different from the non-hydro reservoirs), and some other miscellaneous parts. There is a good write-up on here that shows pretty much step-by-step how it's done, it should show up on search if you look up "hydroboost".
The guy who did the upgrade and made that topic said he had to pull his butt out from between his ears when he hit the brakes after the upgrade. lol
I think the hydroboost setup involves swapping out your vacuum-operated brake booster for a hydraulic unit that runs off the power steering pump. You need the hydroboost unit itself, the matching reservoir for the PS pump (it's different from the non-hydro reservoirs), and some other miscellaneous parts. There is a good write-up on here that shows pretty much step-by-step how it's done, it should show up on search if you look up "hydroboost".
The guy who did the upgrade and made that topic said he had to pull his butt out from between his ears when he hit the brakes after the upgrade. lol
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
More hydraulic braking force isn't going to change the fact that the pads and shoes are going to cook trying to slow an overladen vehicle on a long, steep downgrade.
Larger vented rotors might help a bit, but even they will heat soak in short order and do the same.
ALL brakes are only intended, designed and constructed to be applied intermittently.
They need time and airflow to shed the heat put into them.
After the glazed pads comes caliper pistons so hot they boil the fluid behind them.
THAT will be exciting!
Larger vented rotors might help a bit, but even they will heat soak in short order and do the same.
ALL brakes are only intended, designed and constructed to be applied intermittently.
They need time and airflow to shed the heat put into them.
After the glazed pads comes caliper pistons so hot they boil the fluid behind them.
THAT will be exciting!
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Montana
i seem to be having trouble using the quote function for some reason. anyways the hydro boost idea does seem extreme, so its understood that better pads and rotors are the best answer. the rotor mentioned above dont look like the right ones for my truck which i failed to mention is a 4wd and i do use the engine to slow me down somewhat just hate to see it smokin like that i have plans to build a replacement engine in the near future but the current engine still has a lot of life left and my current firewood spot is going to require me to make this trip several times but i could go on on so....its time to move on
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Not sure the F150 uses the same brakes as the E150, but it may.
My '85 had single piston calipers. The brakes would warp if you really laid into them.
The calipers had PLASTIC pistons as stock.
IMO they were marginal brakes, and below marginal with a load on a major downhill.
Larger discs and at least two piston calipers would be the way to go--which would be F250 brakes. Not sure it's worth all the trouble.
To upgrade the existing: Caliper check, make sure you have steel pistons. Good pads. True up the rotors, be ready to buy new ones when they warp. Service the rear brakes--good shoes, drums in spec, bleed them at least once a year, check for leaks. Make sure the hardware is all there and working.
Yes I know the stock brakes will lock the wheels. That doesn't make great brakes, and stock '85s do not have great brakes.
My '85 had single piston calipers. The brakes would warp if you really laid into them.
The calipers had PLASTIC pistons as stock.
IMO they were marginal brakes, and below marginal with a load on a major downhill.
Larger discs and at least two piston calipers would be the way to go--which would be F250 brakes. Not sure it's worth all the trouble.
To upgrade the existing: Caliper check, make sure you have steel pistons. Good pads. True up the rotors, be ready to buy new ones when they warp. Service the rear brakes--good shoes, drums in spec, bleed them at least once a year, check for leaks. Make sure the hardware is all there and working.
Yes I know the stock brakes will lock the wheels. That doesn't make great brakes, and stock '85s do not have great brakes.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 70
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From: Montana
well that pretty much says it all dont it
. im definitely planning some major brake work this weekend, im also sure that the process is way past due. thanks for all the info everyone.
. im definitely planning some major brake work this weekend, im also sure that the process is way past due. thanks for all the info everyone.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Do the 150's have an 1 1/8" master cylinder bore?
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Tri-Cities
More hydraulic braking force isn't going to change the fact that the pads and shoes are going to cook trying to slow an overladen vehicle on a long, steep downgrade.
Larger vented rotors might help a bit, but even they will heat soak in short order and do the same.
ALL brakes are only intended, designed and constructed to be applied intermittently.
They need time and airflow to shed the heat put into them.
After the glazed pads comes caliper pistons so hot they boil the fluid behind them.
THAT will be exciting!
Larger vented rotors might help a bit, but even they will heat soak in short order and do the same.
ALL brakes are only intended, designed and constructed to be applied intermittently.
They need time and airflow to shed the heat put into them.
After the glazed pads comes caliper pistons so hot they boil the fluid behind them.
THAT will be exciting!