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Coolent Flush

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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 09:50 PM
  #1  
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Coolent Flush

I just saw a video on YouTube about coolent flush, of course looking through all the threads you are told flush radiator/block and heater core. This person didn't do it, what is everyone's thinking of this video.
6.0 SYSTEM FLUSH - YouTube
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 12:27 AM
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Short on distilled water and the wrong coolant need ELC coolant and about 48 gallons of distilled water and Restore products from Cummins to do it right or it is a waste of time.
pop
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 04:32 AM
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How short of distilled was he, I thought looking at Ford and what was on the video it looked like the right coolent. Well if during on of those times you either do restore/restore + or VC-9 you should be ok right. Of course when I do my coolent flush I'll be running simple green through one of the runs then vc-9 then flush all that out and refill with 50/50 approved coolent
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JonArmy
...and refill with 50/50 approved coolent
Just to make sure you get this right .... at the end when you are finished you do want 50/50 of distilled water and concentrated coolant.
However, you can't refill the system straight off the bat after a flush with 50/50 premixed from the store.

You can't get all the water out of the system after the flush.
The system holds 7 gallons of fluid. That is why the procedure is to add 3.5 gallons of concentrated coolant, and then top of with distilled. That way you arrive at 7 gallons of 50/50.

You may already know this but just to make sure based on the part of the sentence I quoted above. Best of luck with the work
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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Ya that's what I ment by approved coolent. Once I get everything ready I'll also be adding a coolent filter before I put the 50 (coolent)/50 (distilled water). About how much water does everyone get out from the radiator drain and the 2 block drains, since I saw with the heater core you disconnect the hoses and blow it out with air. If it's 7 gallons all the time then I don't need to waste money on getting more fluid containers. I'll be getting the Ford coolent this weekend while also getting extra parts. This weekend is devoted to working on the truck. Oil & filter, Fuel Filter x2, HFCM upgrade, and coolent flush clean out filter install and refll.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JonArmy
Ya that's what I ment by approved coolent. Once I get everything ready I'll also be adding a coolent filter before I put the 50 (coolent)/50 (distilled water). About how much water does everyone get out from the radiator drain and the 2 block drains, since I saw with the heater core you disconnect the hoses and blow it out with air. If it's 7 gallons all the time then I don't need to waste money on getting more fluid containers. I'll be getting the Ford coolent this weekend while also getting extra parts. This weekend is devoted to working on the truck. Oil & filter, Fuel Filter x2, HFCM upgrade, and coolent flush clean out filter install and refll.
To start with why would put the Ford Gold Cxxp back in the main problem for cooler problems and i would get a coolant filter on to start filtering the coolant to remove the casting sand should take between 5-7k plus you need gauges or you may get into trouble here is the flush i used and it took 12.5hrs and used a 1/4 tnk of fuel.
Gauges Gauges Gauges
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
pop
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 11:15 AM
  #7  
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right now I have a SGII on the truck, and since I bought it used at 38k, I don't know the fully service of the vehicle with the previous owner. I have already changed the oil and filter and air filter. Once I get some time I will get the coolent filter, and since I am around time to drain the oil again I'm going to do more this time. Thanks for the details and this weekend will be "fun"
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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I have heard some people use simple green then using VC-9, would it still be the same mixture, for instance 1/2 gallon of simple green then distilled water, run then flush then 2qts of VC-9, run then flush a few times before completing the 50 (coolent)/ 50 distilled water.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Dieselpop
To start with why would put the Ford Gold Cxxp back in the main problem for cooler problems and i would get a coolant filter on to start filtering the coolant to remove the casting sand should take between 5-7k plus you need gauges or you may get into trouble here is the flush i used and it took 12.5hrs and used a 1/4 tnk of fuel.
Gauges Gauges Gauges
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
pop
unfortunately, the ford gold coolant is specifically designed for the 6.0

like it or not, this is the only thing, besides zerex 05, tat prevents corrosion within the cooling system. anything else is gonna mess up the 6.0

so it's a design issue with ford.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 12:28 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Snuggyworm
unfortunately, the ford gold coolant is specifically designed for the 6.0

like it or not, this is the only thing, besides zerex 05, tat prevents corrosion within the cooling system. anything else is gonna mess up the 6.0

so it's a design issue with ford.
You can use it in your motor but not in mine it is JUNK why is everyone having all these cooler problems would it be the Ford Gold it can't take the heat and the silicates drop out and the first stop oil cooler.
pop
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Has anyone tried Valvoline Zerex G-05, would it be approved to be used in the 6.0L, of course if it is approved, would you of course have to do the full flush/restore flush and restore+ or vc-9 before adding new coolent?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JonArmy
Has anyone tried Valvoline Zerex G-05, would it be approved to be used in the 6.0L, of course if it is approved, would you of course have to do the full flush/restore flush and restore+ or vc-9 before adding new coolent?
Same junk just a different jug. Do it right or you will have to do it again in about 2 years or sooner. All the post about EOT-ECT ( bad coolers) and the only thing in common is the coolant, just think about it.
pop
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 05:09 PM
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This may help with the flush also.

VC-9 Before and after; Worth the money - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 05:58 PM
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Here is a post that might interest you on coolant.

Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps - Page 21 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Snuggyworm
unfortunately, the ford gold coolant is specifically designed for the 6.0

like it or not, this is the only thing, besides zerex 05, tat prevents corrosion within the cooling system. anything else is gonna mess up the 6.0

so it's a design issue with ford.
International does not use this type of coolant in the 6.0 in their medium duty trucks. They use Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant and have a lower rate of oil cooler/egr cooler failures. Good enough for me.

Btw, International designed the 6.0 not Ford.
 
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