TUNERS - School Me Please?
I have recently decided to keep my 2007 F150 XLT SuperCab (5.4L). My decision was to trade it in, or drive it till it dies and modify it for performance.
I have a 2 wheel drive. 86k miles and bought it new. So I figured I would start with the basics. I ordered a K&N FIPK CAI and a Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust (Exit in front of rear tire with dual 2.5" pipes). I am really excited about getting the gear next week and hearing this baby rumble for the first time.
Ok, now I have increased HP, sound and better throttle response. It is my understanding that the factory tunes it on the rich side. I am not sure if this is correct, but I figured that the increase in air flow, will get it to run stronger.
What would a tuner do for me?Is it worth it to throw an additional $400 at it for performance and to capitalize on my new gear even more?
What tuner should I get? The more I read, the more I realize that I have to get a tuner with a "Custom" tune right off the bat with my CAI and Exhaust in mind. Is that right?
I have been throwing around the idea of saying screw it and getting a Supercharger, but I am not sure. Ultimately, I would like to make my truck a Lightning-esque performer.....with lowering and wheels/tires coming next.
Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
I have recently decided to keep my 2007 F150 XLT SuperCab (5.4L). My decision was to trade it in, or drive it till it dies and modify it for performance.
I have a 2 wheel drive. 86k miles and bought it new. So I figured I would start with the basics. I ordered a K&N FIPK CAI and a Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust (Exit in front of rear tire with dual 2.5" pipes). I am really excited about getting the gear next week and hearing this baby rumble for the first time.
Ok, now I have increased HP, sound and better throttle response. It is my understanding that the factory tunes it on the rich side. I am not sure if this is correct, but I figured that the increase in air flow, will get it to run stronger.
What would a tuner do for me?Is it worth it to throw an additional $400 at it for performance and to capitalize on my new gear even more?
What tuner should I get? The more I read, the more I realize that I have to get a tuner with a "Custom" tune right off the bat with my CAI and Exhaust in mind. Is that right?
I have been throwing around the idea of saying screw it and getting a Supercharger, but I am not sure. Ultimately, I would like to make my truck a Lightning-esque performer.....with lowering and wheels/tires coming next.
Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
With regards to “Chips” and “Tuners”, years ago it was the best that most could do to enhance the ignition timing, fuel curve, transmission shift points, etc. It was (and still is) very important that a person verifies that the “Tuner” is ASE certified in both ECM and Transmission programming and IMHO be have current certification by the OEM whose vehicle you want to modify. There are plenty of persons who advertise their programs to be the best and even offer custom tunes, but in all reality, very few actually have credentials in these areas- but that’s not to say that some of these “geniuses” haven’t really caused damage to a few vehicles- just jump over to flatratetech.com and read just some of the comments from the MSE techs!. Perhaps what is equally important is the parameters that can be adjusted are set by the OEM vehicle software…so there is really no “magic” in what they are doing anyway. Now about this new marketing hype that if you have a CAI you need a custom program………….hogwash!!!!!! The OEM software system is designed to adjust the fuel mixture up to 10%.......that’s more than enough to handle fuel mixture adjustments up to 7,000 foot elevation change! (for high elevations 8,000+ there are oem software programs for those specific applications) The 5.4 V8 for example if close to stock can only suck in a maximum of 480 cfm and a flat panel filter will flow 500 cfm, there is simply no way any CAI on a relatively stock engine can increase the air flow enough to exceed the ECM’s ability to adjust and maintain the correct fuel mixture. The only reason for the “custom” program to support the CAI is because the design is poor resulting in false readings from the air intake sensors, etc….period! If you look at the dyno charts from many of these supposed HP/TQ increases, they are typically around 5%-7% at peak rpm ranges…….guess what, 5% is a standard deviation even amoungst mfg dynos and the most important item is……these “expert tuners” (at least most) do not have or choose not to test their results (in comparison to the oem intakes) during actual vehicle motion (or simulation- such as a wind tunnel) as the oems do. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with its noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed.
Recently, Testand Corporation conducted an ISO standards test on automotive air filters which can be viewed at this link: http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...r-testing.html. All I can say is this explains in detail the reason for
(Arlen) SPICER wrote,
“Now that I am not doing the tests and my objectivity is not necessary, let me explain my motivation. The reason I started this crusade was that I was seeing people spend a lot of money on aftermarket filters based on the word of a salesperson or based on the misleading, incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature. Gentlemen and Ladies, Marketing and the lure of profit is VERY POWERFUL! It is amazing how many people believe that better airflow = more power! Unless you have modifications out the wazoo, a more porous filter will just dirty your oil! Some will say " I have used aftermarket brand X for XXX # years with no problems. The PROBLEM is you spent a chunk of ching on a product that not only DID NOT increase your horsepower, but also let in a lot of dirt while doing it! Now how much is a lot? ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY is TOO MUCH!
Others are persuaded by the claims of aftermarket manufacturers that their filters filter dirt "better than any other filter on the market." Sounds very enticing. To small timers like you and me, spending $1500 to test a filter sounds like a lot. But if you were a filter manufacturer and you believed your filter could filter dirt better than any other media on the market, wouldn't you want to prove it? Guess what. Test your filter vs. the OE paper. It will cost you $3000 and for that price you will have the data that you can use in your advertisements. Your investment will be returned a thousand fold! EASIER than shooting fish in a barrel! So why don't these manufacturers do this? Hmmm? Probably not because they would feel guilty about taking more market share.
Now I am not saying that ALL aftermarket filters are useless. A paper filter does not do well if directly wetted or muddy. It may collapse. This is why many off-road filters are foam. It is a compromise between filtering efficiency and protection from a collapsed filter. Now how many of our trucks collapse their filters from mud and water? However, if a filter is using "better airflow" as their marketing tool, remember this....Does it flow better? At very high airflow volumes, probably. BUT, Our trucks CAN'T flow that much air unless super-modified, so what is the point? The stock filter will flow MORE THAN ENOUGH AIR to give you ALL THE HORSEPOWER the engine has to give. And this remains true until the filter is dirty enough to trip the air filter life indicator. At that point performance will decline somewhat. Replace the filter and get on with it.
IMHO, if you live near any major city there are excellent tuning specialists with dynos who for the same price (if not less) will tune your vehicle taking into consideration your specific needs including environmental conditions, for your specific vehicle. IMHO, the best bang for the buck!
Let's just sticky everything, close out the ability to open a thread and have 0 interaction. Wait!!- the sponsers would hate that because it would eliminate REAL human traffic. Oh darn, what to do, what to do?
I know, I know call Mike Butler and use my CAI as a paper weight. Anything else would deviate from the norm.
Let's just sticky everything, close out the ability to open a thread and have 0 interaction. Wait!!- the sponsers would hate that because it would eliminate REAL human traffic. Oh darn, what to do, what to do?
I know, I know call Mike Butler and use my CAI as a paper weight. Anything else would deviate from the norm.
Let's just sticky everything, close out the ability to open a thread and have 0 interaction. Wait!!- the sponsers would hate that because it would eliminate REAL human traffic. Oh darn, what to do, what to do?
I know, I know call Mike Butler and use my CAI as a paper weight. Anything else would deviate from the norm.
(Arlen) SPICER wrote,
“Now that I am not doing the tests and my objectivity is not necessary, let me explain my motivation. The reason I started this crusade was that I was seeing people spend a lot of money on aftermarket filters based on the word of a salesperson or based on the misleading, incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature. Gentlemen and Ladies, Marketing and the lure of profit is VERY POWERFUL! It is amazing how many people believe that better airflow = more power! Unless you have modifications out the wazoo, a more porous filter will just dirty your oil! Some will say " I have used aftermarket brand X for XXX # years with no problems. The PROBLEM is you spent a chunk of ching on a product that not only DID NOT increase your horsepower, but also let in a lot of dirt while doing it! Now how much is a lot? ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY is TOO MUCH!
Others are persuaded by the claims of aftermarket manufacturers that their filters filter dirt "better than any other filter on the market." Sounds very enticing. To small timers like you and me, spending $1500 to test a filter sounds like a lot. But if you were a filter manufacturer and you believed your filter could filter dirt better than any other media on the market, wouldn't you want to prove it? Guess what. Test your filter vs. the OE paper. It will cost you $3000 and for that price you will have the data that you can use in your advertisements. Your investment will be returned a thousand fold! EASIER than shooting fish in a barrel! So why don't these manufacturers do this? Hmmm? Probably not because they would feel guilty about taking more market share.
Now I am not saying that ALL aftermarket filters are useless. A paper filter does not do well if directly wetted or muddy. It may collapse. This is why many off-road filters are foam. It is a compromise between filtering efficiency and protection from a collapsed filter. Now how many of our trucks collapse their filters from mud and water? However, if a filter is using "better airflow" as their marketing tool, remember this....Does it flow better? At very high airflow volumes, probably. BUT, Our trucks CAN'T flow that much air unless super-modified, so what is the point? The stock filter will flow MORE THAN ENOUGH AIR to give you ALL THE HORSEPOWER the engine has to give. And this remains true until the filter is dirty enough to trip the air filter life indicator. At that point performance will decline somewhat. Replace the filter and get on with it.
Jim & fat Monty
That's actually the same logic thinking that people use when thinking it helps out the 6.0 compared to the stock one and it doesn't.
Sound/aesthetics are to the individual person. If that's what they want to do with their money that's fine with me. No problem. Just don't try to sell it as something other then that. Which the op is with regard to performance(which covers a broad range of things).
One is permitted in this forum, one is not. At least in this sub-section of the forum.
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...lol but it was an interesting study to say the least not very thorough but interesting for a baseline study I was surprised my AFE did as well as it did I was quite impressed with it's performance! The K&N was no surprise.Jim & fat Monty
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However, tex is ignoring the male ego reaction to sights and sounds. This reaction is especially strong in men who have suffered (or are suffering with) mod fever.
The two main reactions are:
1. Better exhaust sound = more sensitive butt dyno = WIN
2. Under-the-hood-bling and better intake sound are known butt dyno multipliers and therfore = WIN
Unfortunately a cat-back exhaust does not = any more hp.
An after-market intake (alone) can add 7-9 hp at 4500+ RPMs. But as shown in the independent ISO testing, at what cost to your engine? Also note many A-M intake owners complain of drone at highway/interstate speeds. This drone can be reduced, but typically it will require a custom tune and guess what? It reduces the intake's hp gains.
A custom 91+ tune will add a dyno proven 25-35 hp. Add an A-M intake and a custom tune and you might get 28-40 hp (total gain, including the intake). Again, if you have drone (and can't stand it), it will require a custom tune and it reduces the intake's hp gains.
I strongly encourage you to call Mike Butler, Bill Cohron, Justin Starkey, Mike Troyer or any other reputable and experienced tuner and discuss your objectives.








