Header Height & Questions?
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FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
Header Height & Questions?
I know headers have been cussed and discussed in many threads on here, and I've read every one of them. I'm thinking about installing headers to go with the ported heads and true dual exhaust in my quest for better fuel efficiency, but I would like the headers to come out high enough so the exhaust pipes can go above the transmission cross-member.
So, the first question is simply: Do any of you know of any long-tube headers that come out that high? Or, like several have said, do I have to stay with shorties in order to do that?
Second, I'm looking at the following specific headers, which are said to fit my '82 2wd long bed w/a 351W, and would appreciate any input:
So, the first question is simply: Do any of you know of any long-tube headers that come out that high? Or, like several have said, do I have to stay with shorties in order to do that?
Second, I'm looking at the following specific headers, which are said to fit my '82 2wd long bed w/a 351W, and would appreciate any input:
- Flowtech 12504FLT (Clifford, any update since April on these?)
- Hooker 6912HKR
- Hedman 89278 Elite
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From: Virginia
I have experience with the flowtechs. If you get under the truck and study the stock y-pipe, you will see there is really no way to keep the exhaust up high with long tube headers. They sneak the y-pipe cross-over right in a little spot provided by the oil pan. The long tubes bring the outlets way out the back near the tranny bellhousing, and they are 3 inch in diameter, so there is no way to neatly tuck this up high in a nook or cranny on the underside of the truck.
They do not offer shorties for the earlier non-fuel injected trucks, but I can't see why you could not plug the oxygen sensor hole and use that system on a earlier truck. You might have to buy the later y-pipe to make it all fit up.
They do not offer shorties for the earlier non-fuel injected trucks, but I can't see why you could not plug the oxygen sensor hole and use that system on a earlier truck. You might have to buy the later y-pipe to make it all fit up.
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FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
Dave - Thanks, that explanation really helps. I would have been laying under my truck to figure that out myself, but as there's no engine nor tranny in it there's lots of clearance for headers. So, no long tube is going to let the exhaust go above the rear mount. Maybe I shouldn't be hung up on that as many of you are running headers so must have the exhaust down low and it works.
As for shorties, what I've read says the fuel efficiency is really with the long-tubes, and since that's my quest I guess I'd better go with the long ones. With the time I've spent porting heads and polishing valves, not to mention the Performer intake, Performer carb, Hughes Fuel Miser TC, and true dual exhausts, I probably need to compliment the setup with the better headers.
So, that still leaves me looking for input on those headers awa the finish.
As for shorties, what I've read says the fuel efficiency is really with the long-tubes, and since that's my quest I guess I'd better go with the long ones. With the time I've spent porting heads and polishing valves, not to mention the Performer intake, Performer carb, Hughes Fuel Miser TC, and true dual exhausts, I probably need to compliment the setup with the better headers.
So, that still leaves me looking for input on those headers awa the finish.
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From: Virginia
I never bought the ones with the fancy finish. I bought one set of flowtechs, and they have the flat black paint, and after you install them and run the engine, most of that paint is gone in 30 minutes. Then they rust. I drove my truck in the salt and plowed snow with it, and the headers ended up lasting only 5 years before they rusted out. I also hit them in the woods cutting firewood, I ran over a stump and it caught against one of them.
The easiest cheapest thing for me to do was to buy another set of flowtechs, but this time I tried a experiment. Before I even put the headers on the truck, I took lacquer thinner and wiped the factory paint off. I then bought some of that good VHT high temp paint at the store and painted them with it(silver). There were a few blemishes here and there afterward where I skinned the paint installing them, but overall this paint held up and did not burn off. I think it would have given me a few more years out of the headers, but I sold that truck.
The easiest cheapest thing for me to do was to buy another set of flowtechs, but this time I tried a experiment. Before I even put the headers on the truck, I took lacquer thinner and wiped the factory paint off. I then bought some of that good VHT high temp paint at the store and painted them with it(silver). There were a few blemishes here and there afterward where I skinned the paint installing them, but overall this paint held up and did not burn off. I think it would have given me a few more years out of the headers, but I sold that truck.
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FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
Thanks, Dave. The fact that the VHT stayed on tells me the high-temp powder will do even better since it is rated to a higher temp.
I guess one of the questions is how hot a header gets in comparison to a manifold. The high-temp powder has done well on my manifolds, but they are thick cast iron and may not get as hot on the outside as a header will due to how thin it is - the heat comes through quickly. Yes, when driving a long distance the manifold might approach the temp of a header, but probably never really get there.
Anyway, thanks as that does help.
I guess one of the questions is how hot a header gets in comparison to a manifold. The high-temp powder has done well on my manifolds, but they are thick cast iron and may not get as hot on the outside as a header will due to how thin it is - the heat comes through quickly. Yes, when driving a long distance the manifold might approach the temp of a header, but probably never really get there.
Anyway, thanks as that does help.
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