Hey guys I pulled the pigtail because I am trying to fix my radio right.

On my main harness plug I have green wire with yel stripe, two blacks, one white with a pink or red stripe, one blue with red stripe, one brown, two black with blue stripe.

On my other connector I've got a black with white hash, one yellow and I think green, and then one pink and green.

I've searched several times and my diagram doesn't match the threads so was hoping for some help here.

 

Hey guys disregard, I did some digging in my dash and I am pretty proud of myself. I noted 3 or 4 total stereo wiring connections. I missed the first one (having my key on power) as it was wrapped in a wiring bundle. I also brought out the test light and my fuse tester (sweet little tools I must say). I discovered the source of my no start condition I pulled all my fuses ( one at a time) with my test light vice gripped to the neg so I could look out across the hood and see what was up. My fuses checked out and then I instantly knew the issue. I pulled my alternator wire and out my test light went. So I must say I am pretty proud I knocked out two issues in 15 minutes.

Now on to my issues with the overhead lamp being non op, as well as my dash lights.

 

Hey guys,


I am curious as to what could cause a lack of power to the stereo wiring and also the cluster lights? Yesterday my cluster lights were functioning as well as my stereo wiring. I pulled the dash ground (bracket from dash to firewall) and it was rusted as heck. I cleaned it with steel wool. Last night it was late but I wasn't getting my test light to work on any of the radio wiring, that I previously identified as key on, and constant. I pulled the checked the fuse with a tester and it was golden, could it be something as simple as my ground being bad? I figured with the clean ground it would be better, but maybe not.

 

Alright guys I'm in my pickup now and on my laptop. Heres what I got. I've got the stock harness grounds (two ring terminals) going to my dash mounting bracket for a ground. I've also ran a ground from my battery negative to inside the cab so I can verify my ground is good. I am not getting any power to my 12v key, or constant. I've verified the fuse twice with a tester and also used the fuse for my cluster illum, and then pulled it and used it for my radio and still no power.

 

Glove - Sorry, I wasn't watching. It sounds like an ignition switch problem. Have you been having any problems with it?

 

Well prior to this I had it directly wired in. IE a lead to the pos on my battery, a ground to the metal frame of dash, and then directly to my speakers. I decided to try and do it correctly. I found the correct wires 12v constant, and 12v switched, in addition to the red and blue dimming. Yesterday these wires 12v were lighting up my test light and I noted that my dash to firewall bracket was rusty as heck (as mentioned in my ground issue thread). I pulled it and steel wooled it and replaced it. I tried after this yesterday to check for power on the 12v wires. I got no light up. I anticipated that my ground was some how messed up. I ran a lead straight from my battery terminal negative and I tested the ground at the battery and my test light worked.

I moved on to the 12v and still had no lightup except for the re/blue which was dimming if the cluster lights were on, just like it was supposed to.

I've checked and replaced fuses, with a tester and visual. They check out and I even went ahead and used a known good one in my cluster illum, I got lights there so I pulled it and moved that fuse to my radio slot and had no power.

Presently, I am going to replace all my fuses as they are old, even though they tested good.

I am also going to attach the ground as I had the two leads from under my dash, pinned to the negative lead from the battery as I wanted to verify function and I know that the battery ground was good.

So as of tomorrow I'm gonna replace fuses and see where I am there. Just shocked that the wires had current yesterday and now they don't even with a known good fuse and all the wires being in the fuse block as I pulled that and verified. The only thing I can suspect is that when I pulled a known good fuse for my radio section it is somehow shutting down the power for the circuit I'm trying to tap.

To answer your last question yeah it has been doing the rod issue where I have to turn the truck on and slowly turn the switch until the gauges kick on, besides that no shut down, or constant turnover issues.

On an asside all this has solved another issue for me in that I found 4 dead dash lights, and the diodes in my alternator are done for. So all this issue isn't for nothing.

 

You have had more than your share of electrical issues, my friend. Glad you are working through them methodically. Too many people either just start doing things w/o a plan or through their hands in the air and say they'll live with it.

If you have been having some ignition switch problems that's a possibility. But, since you just worked on the ground before things went south that would be the first place I would look. Something doesn't seem right there.

 

Hahaha no joke buddy. I didn't expect this out of a 1 owner, non hacked truck. Well in terms of the ground it was pulled and only cleaned, and I tested the entire ground system by taking my two stereo grounds, the two dash grounds (lights etc.) and my actual hard battery ground and clipped them together. It was kind of a junky setup but I figured it couldn't hurt, I didn't get anything.

I figure I will replace the switch anyway, as I am replacing the headlight switch when it comes in tomorrow. Is it very difficult?

As for now I will go ahead and replace all my fuses tomorrow, and then report back if that changes anything.

 

I know this is a bad question to ask but, is the cab grounded to the engine?

 

Yes sir it is. Prior to this and having my radio janxed in my pickup, ie straight lead. I was having intermittent shut down of my radio. I verified my engine to chassis ground and that was good.

 

Check the fusible links???

 

I've checked fuses, I'm not real sure what these are? I assume they are like an in-line fuse, but as for location I am not sure. I've read wiring diagrams and didn't happen to see any, but fuses, or inline would have been both of my guesses outside of a bad ground.

 

Good point, Stang.

Grubb, do you still have power on the fuse that supports the radio? I believe the fuses are downstream of the fusible links, so if you have power at the fuse the link should be ok. IIRC.

Edit: I should have pointed out that most fuses have a spot on the face where you can check w/a DVM.

 

On the battery side of the starter relay should be some smaller wires going into the main harness. They should have small tags on them saying "Fusible Link". Each link is about 12" long and then goes to regular wire. The fusible part is a smaller gage wire that acts as a fuse for redundant safety along with the fuses in the dash.

Aften yanking all the unwanted emissions crap out of mine, including all the wiring for the solenoids and variable venturi carb, I have only the one fusible link going to the main harness and it is red, I think. Another way to identify the fusilbe link is there is a larger rubber piece on the terminal end at the solenoid for that wire.

 

Yeah I've got an actual fuse tester and it tests them directly. I also replaced all the fuses and have yet to look at it. Should the fusible link be blown how would I replace it?