U-Joint Install Trouble
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
I found the part online a couple of different places
1:Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Spicer 3-2-1839
2:3-2-1839-DANA CORPORATION-FULL RND FLANGE YOKE
3:Parts
But I had an idea to get the snap ring in there... pressing on the yoke while it was suspended on 4 deep sockets I was able to get it to flex enough for the snap ring to fit. I was planning on using this as a temporary fix until the new part came in, but if you guys think it'll work I'll give it a try!
1:Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Spicer 3-2-1839
2:3-2-1839-DANA CORPORATION-FULL RND FLANGE YOKE
3:Parts
But I had an idea to get the snap ring in there... pressing on the yoke while it was suspended on 4 deep sockets I was able to get it to flex enough for the snap ring to fit. I was planning on using this as a temporary fix until the new part came in, but if you guys think it'll work I'll give it a try!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
That makes sense to me and I've always hammered mine with no problems. When you hammer on the cap the housing isn't affected because there is no way it can be caught in a bind like is possible when pressing. The press is unforgiving and just keeps on pushing whether it's in a bind or not whereas a hammer will just deliver sharp blows directed at the u-joint itself.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 155
From: Milwaukee, WI
I had a front u-joint the PO decided to that an air chisel from the back side to remove. 
Gouged the inside of the yoke up so bad the cap would not slide out no matter how much banging. It probably took 8-10 tons of force from the press onto the cap to get it to let go. It sounded like a shotgun 
when it let loose. I spent 10 minutes fileing the gouge smooth by hand and the new one slid in like butter. 
I agree, a good drift should be used to remove the u-joints unless extreme matters require the press. Then be careful not to damage the yoke with the press.
Gouged the inside of the yoke up so bad the cap would not slide out no matter how much banging. It probably took 8-10 tons of force from the press onto the cap to get it to let go. It sounded like a shotgun when it let loose. I spent 10 minutes fileing the gouge smooth by hand and the new one slid in like butter. I agree, a good drift should be used to remove the u-joints unless extreme matters require the press. Then be careful not to damage the yoke with the press.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I had a front u-joint the PO decided to that an air chisel from the back side to remove. Gouged the inside of the yoke up so bad the cap would not slide out no matter how much banging. It probably took 8-10 tons of force from the press onto the cap to get it to let go. It sounded like a shotgun when it let loose. I spent 10 minutes fileing the gouge smooth by hand and the new one slid in like butter.
I agree, a good drift should be used to remove the u-joints unless extreme matters require the press. Then be careful not to damage the yoke with the press.
Gouged the inside of the yoke up so bad the cap would not slide out no matter how much banging. It probably took 8-10 tons of force from the press onto the cap to get it to let go. It sounded like a shotgun when it let loose. I spent 10 minutes fileing the gouge smooth by hand and the new one slid in like butter. I agree, a good drift should be used to remove the u-joints unless extreme matters require the press. Then be careful not to damage the yoke with the press.
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Pladsmand
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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