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I fried the u-joint at the rear axle a few weekends back towing our travel trailer 300 miles.
(I think the mountains on US-30W outside of Breezewood, PA are to blame)
I picked up a Neapco 2-0054BF Brute Force u-joint from Advance Auto Parts
and I am having some trouble pressing it in. It almost seems like the u-joint is 1/16" too big because I can get the snap ring to go in on one side or the other but not both at the same time.
It didn't seem like that much pressure, but I may have over done it without realizing. I'll have to compare it to the yoke on the other side(of the driveshaft).
Looking at the Spicer chart from the link on at my front axle post, you will see that there is a listing for two different size U joints for the rear axle, totally dependant on the size of your yoke. You will need to measure your yoke, but I think that may be the problem.
Housedad: I think I have to have the larger yoke since I have a V10
Exv10: I did check for this... I had a needle bearing fall down when I was doing a u-joint on my Jeep a few years back... drove me crazy trying to find the problem.
I'm thinking there is something wrong with the yoke. Maybe I did it, maybe the previous owner did it, I'm not sure. (The Ex had 91k miles when I got it) I was able to press the u-joint into the yoke on the transfer case side (of my rear driveshaft) in a matter of minutes.
I doubt if a different size joint is going to be just different enough so the ring doesn't fit, something else is wrong there. Maybe something in the cup, or a bent shaft end, or maybe not in all the way due to a burr etc.
<P>U-Joint installed at transfer case end of rear driveshaft with no problem:</P>
<P>Yoke that bolts to rear axle:</P>
<P>Bottom of yokes line up:</P> <P>Top of yokes don't line up:</P> <P>Top of yokes don't line up:</P>
<P>So it looks like I need a Spicer C3-2-771! I don't think it would be a good idea to try and bend it back... that sounds like a recipe for a driveshaft vibration.
CORRECTION: C3-2-771 is the casting number... part number is 3-2-1839
Bending it back is no big deal. I have done it a couple of times with no problem. I used a piece of all thread ( or even a stud from a hub) which i inserted through one ear of the yoke. Then i threaded on a a couple of washers and nuts (fitting them between the ears) and proceded to use wrenches to spread the ears apart. A bit of careful measuring and turning produced the desired result.
This may or may not work for you, but I wanted to throw it out there. Good luck.
Bending it back is no big deal. I have done it a couple of times with no problem. I used a piece of all thread ( or even a stud from a hub) which i inserted through one ear of the yoke. Then i threaded on a a couple of washers and nuts (fitting them between the ears) and proceded to use wrenches to spread the ears apart. A bit of careful measuring and turning produced the desired result.
This may or may not work for you, but I wanted to throw it out there. Good luck.
Sounds like a good idea and I doubt if it will affect the balance.
But I had an idea to get the snap ring in there... pressing on the yoke while it was suspended on 4 deep sockets I was able to get it to flex enough for the snap ring to fit. I was planning on using this as a temporary fix until the new part came in, but if you guys think it'll work I'll give it a try!