My bad - appreciate pointing out my error.

The carb was thoroughly cleaned - all the jets and passages are open and operational - the PO had apparently kept this up as there was very little buildup anywhere. Did have a small leak that was cured with repositioning gaskets and re-torquing the bolts.

When it stalls, there isn't any sputter and it behaves more like a lawnmower engine that is over choked to stall. It blubs out - no wheezing, backfires, or irregular cycle.

DW

 

Those heat riser valves help with warmup, but aren't necessary. If it were on mine, I'd use safety wire to secure it in the opened position.

Hmmm...so it starts up, runs normally, and after a few miles it dies out. It'll re-start with the choke on, but dies out again.

It's pointing to a fuel problem, but here's a thought....old ignition coils can do this...they get warm and stop working. When they cool off a little, they work again. Apparently the insulation inside breaks down with age.

Dan

 

OD - interesting thought on the coil - I'll check my sparks.

Thanks!

 

Duane,

I have an extra coil if you want to try it. I borrowed it from my neighbor but you're welcome to try it. I had a problem with my F-2 last year, it ran good until it got warm and then it would just cut out. I replaced the coil and the truck ran fine. I forgot I had the problem until OD mentioned it.

 

Opinion request on heat riser guys: I have a heat riser still on my 226, it flops either way easily (spring is unhooked currently), and if you let it drop it bounces and makes a little ping like it is turning more than just itself - something is moving inside... It only moves 90 degrees, doesn't spin loose. I haven't played with it, but what's your take - if hooking the spring up gets it to work as Henry designed, should I leave it or is it so prone to problem you say wire it open now while it still turns?

I do plan on driving my truck here in Denver (it can get in the minus double digits rarely in February), but I think the coldest days I'll be taking a little warmer rig

If I wire it open, which is open: with the spade pointed up (as OP photo) or straight back horizontal towards firewall?

 

Things expand and contract as they heat and cool. Enough cycles and connections can break, get weak, or pull apart when heated only to close back up again when cool. There was a funky piece of electronics under the distributor in my van that did just that. However, with the van there was no spit sputter, it just died and refused to start again until cool. Old coils are prone to it too, given their close proximity to the motor.

On a side note, soldered connections also "grow" over time, microscopically. This weirdness can be seen thru very powerfull microscopes, and gave chip designers and manufacturers fits for years. The smaller the chip, the closer the circuits and connections, so it took less "growing" of the soldered connections to short out the chip. Add in the expansion and contraction from heat, you have fits as stuff works intermittently.

 

Oh yes, good call. The coil can cause this problem. That fluid inside can leak out or dry up causing voltage issues. Will run for a while till it gets hot, creates too much resistance then drops off. Good one to check out.

Other thing is the rubber (or cloth lined) connections on your fuel line. Over time with age thay will collapse easy. thay may not collapse at idle but will when throttled (pump puts more suction on them) And when they suck shut your truck will run as long as the fuel in the carb bowl lasts. Took the line from the tank tot he steel line off my 56 tonight. i could pinch the line shut with a cheap plastic paperclip. Definately not good.